Finish advice for walnut guitar amp head

[the great waldo]

On the theme of walnut finishes and musical instruments, like many others I opted for Tru-Oil applied with wet and dry sandpaper and achieved a very good result (in my opinion):
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It is a very tedious (or therapeutic) process. In my case 20+ coats.
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You can get it to a very shiny finish if you want (not what I aimed for).
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Tru-oil is marketed as a gunstock finish/protection for guns that will be out in the wild on hunting. It worked for me. I am finishing now my second guitar using the same process.
Good luck.

Edit:
The best investment will be a thick and well fitted cloth/canvas/plastic cover. Amps get most abuse on transport to and from gigs.

Nice Job you just need to set the intonation now!!
Cheers
Andrew

 

[the great waldo]

It should be OK as you haven't played it in a while, but be careful if you open it up. There can be some nasty charges left on the smoothing caps, even when unplugged, and fingers/tweezers can get a nasty surprise. Ask me how I know

Had an old Marshall combo in the house. Had a look inside after 10 days of it sitting there unplugged. Poked my hand where I shouldn't have and it threw me across the room. I didn't do that again since then!

Cheers
Andrew

 

[GuitardoctorW7]

I decided to mess about with the bias a few years ago...and had the presence of mind (for once!) to read up first!
4 x 350v and a couple at 500v....
Sweat just thinking about it!

I re-cap and re-build Music Man amps, they run at 700v. So Isolating transformer > Variac > light bulb limiter >left hand in pocket

 

[MF1000]

I decided to mess about with the bias a few years ago...and had the presence of mind (for once!) to read up first!
4 x 350v and a couple at 500v....
Sweat just thinking about it!

Try bias adjusting 845 valves ….my monoblock power amps on my hifi rig run at 1200 v

 

[Cozzer]

I re-cap and re-build Music Man amps, they run at 700v. So Isolating transformer > Variac > light bulb limiter >left hand in pocket

Yup. Best advice going!

 

[Cozzer]

Try bias adjusting 845 valves ….my monoblock power amps on my hifi rig run at 1200 v

I'd like to help, but I'm washing my hair that night...

 

[the great waldo]

The only thing I know for definite about Rustin's Plastic Coating...
1) Open the window. Open every window.
2) Open the window wider. All of 'em.
3) Open the door.
4) Open the door even wider.
5) If possible, open your ceiling up.
6) If possible, remove the house roof.
It IS pungent, heady stuff!

I tolexed my Mustang amp a few years ago, but went for the "tweed" look. Worked out well, methinks...

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If you think plastic coating stinks try polyester, that's the big daddy of smelly. Even better when sprayed. In all honesty i've always found any finishes that stink usually work much better than one's that don't. About 40 years ago I resprayed a lovely old Gibson switchmaster guitar with Morrells acid catalyst laquer and it really honked with the smell of Fenugreek (Methi for you curry fans) I went back to Morrells In horn lane Acton, and told the gentleman behind the counter with the red blob on his forehead about the problem. He smiled and said don't you like curry? I said I do but not all over a customers expensive guitar. I often wonder if it still smells?
Cheers
Andrew

 

[AESamuel]

You've got two options for heavily handled object IMO. Either encase it in a thick hard varnish if you don't mind the plastic look/feel. Or go for an oil like danish oil. It will look and feel more like wood, and any scratches and scuffs it picks up will blend into the wood better. Very easy to repair oil finishes compared to varnish.

 

[mickthetree]

All finished. I opted for several coats of danish and a coat of wax. Lots of things I'd change, but overall pretty happy with it.