finding a single phase startrite 352 bandsaw.

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memzey":1mb6yrdh said:
My thoughts exactly Bob. I’ve lost the tct tip on my rear guide as well. Where did you get a replacement from if you don’t mind me asking?
Not direct replacements, something I tried as a makedo but works so well I kept them going.

I had some carbide replacement tips, mine were solid about 12mm square and I simply used JB Weld to glue them on to the end of the round rods, I actually made a couple of spare using some 10mm (I think) round steel bar but haven't needed to use them yet. Any shape carbide tip would work and probably an even better solution would be to get those with countersunk screw holes and tap the end of the rod to fit making sure the fixing stud was below the carbide face.

I used a small G clamp to hold the bits together overnight while it set solid then filed off any rough bits of epoxy.

You can easily buy them on fleabay ( other sources are available :lol: ) and much better imo than forking out for the expensive Startrite replacements.

If you want the Startrite spares they are available on line for the 352.

cheers
Bob
 

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I may have coined the term "startritemania"
It refers to the iconification of certain brands above and beyond there real merit.
Nobody would think the 352 fence was the best available for instance.
Ball bearing guides used to be available maybe still are?
£350 for a used 352 is a proper price if it's in good condition.
Could I imagine a better bandsaw.....Easily.
Jb
 
IMO any machine that use's rubbing blocks or a bearing facing the wrong way has been built down to a standard, as many other bandsaws are available with correctly oriented bearings and no rubbing blocks this to my mind makes the Startrite 352 a very low contender for consideration on my shopping list.

Mike
 
I'm ok with rubbing blocks esp on small blades TBH. It's just some things aren't...great. there a bit war production if you know what I mean.
I wouldn't swap my 301 s because although I love woodwork I'm not into upgrading anymore.
 
MikeJhn":2zphie4r said:
IMO any machine that use's rubbing blocks or a bearing facing the wrong way has been built down to a standard, as many other bandsaws are available with correctly oriented bearings and no rubbing blocks this to my mind makes the Startrite 352 a very low contender for consideration on my shopping list.

Mike

I wouldn't disagree Mike after all things move on hopefully however my 40 year old machine has the original blocks, I know that because I know its' history, it was very well used and abused by a one man band furniture maker and woodcarver and I use it a lot though with a bit more TLC. The fact that it's still running as it should speaks volumes for the machine and it's simplicity and robustness is its' strength. I suspect it would have gone through several sets of bearing guides in that time.

I used to sell these from my branch in the early eighties so have a little knowledge and for the money I paid, I really couldn't have bought a new machine that would serve me as well as my 352. Secondhand might have been a different matter.

As an aside, I'm pretty sure Steve Maskery posted a tut on making his own bearing guides for the 352 for very little money or if really determined to change what is already a proven system you can buy a set from Axminster for £75.

cheers
Bob
 
Already done that with my Record Power 350, search on here there is a thread for it, I just can't get to grips with anyone with any accredited engineering knowledge accepting plain rubbing blocks compared to bearings, its similar to accepting plain Phosphor bronze bearings in a gearbox, they will do the job for a while, but when they start to wear its bye bye gears.


Proven system, the Austin seven was a proven system, but would you want to drive one every day.

Mike
 
Plenty of precision lathes use plain headstock bearings. As do engines, gearboxes etc etc .
Roller bearings are unreliable TBH. Plain bearings as long as they've got oil will last a long long time. Ball bearings can fail for no obvious reason any time.
Cool blocks are good as well. Lignum blocks work equally well.
Only two strokes use roller crank bearings hence the need for oil in the petrol.
 
MikeJhn":55dlpxpe said:
they will do the job for a while, but when they start to wear its bye bye gears.Mike

I'm not sure gears are a relevant comparison Mike, when the gears wear they're knackered whereas if the rubbing blocks did wear unevenly it's not exactly difficult to flatten them to new condition.

I wouldn't mind an Austin Seven btw though confess I wouldn't swap it for my Merc. :lol:

cheers
Bob
 
Please read my post again, the analogy was concerning what happens to gears when the bearings start to wear.

I would never swap my 1974 Porsche Carrera for you Merc. :shock:
 
I didn't read that properly Mike, must have been the wine or just old age.

My neighbour was a Porche Man Mike and always said the older ones were "real" cars, I've never been a fan or the make though have had a few test drives but I always buy German cars. I don't think a Carrrera would be much good pulling our huge touring caravan. Bet your car is pristine.

One of my golfing partners has a BMW 7 as well as a Merc C class and he's just bought a Y reg BMW Z3 ( might be a Z4 ) as a summer plaything and was showing me photos this morning, it's in mint condition.

I'm a bit OTT with my cars, snowfoam, 2 bucket cleaning 2-3 time a week, wax every month and I've just ordered a DA polisher to keep the paintwork perfect - don't tell the missus about that though. :wink:
 
I hate over restored cars, mine looks as a 1974 car should, not in better condition than when it came out of the factory.

For pulling my four wheel trailer I have a 1992 two door Range Rover, not washed until April.

Every day car is a BMW 5 series touring, but newer than the other two. :D

Mike
 
Lons":1xo1de71 said:
MikeJhn":1xo1de71 said:
IMO any machine that use's rubbing blocks or a bearing facing the wrong way has been built down to a standard, as many other bandsaws are available with correctly oriented bearings and no rubbing blocks this to my mind makes the Startrite 352 a very low contender for consideration on my shopping list.

Mike

I wouldn't disagree Mike after all things move on hopefully however my 40 year old machine has the original blocks, I know that because I know its' history, it was very well used and abused by a one man band furniture maker and woodcarver and I use it a lot though with a bit more TLC. The fact that it's still running as it should speaks volumes for the machine and it's simplicity and robustness is its' strength. I suspect it would have gone through several sets of bearing guides in that time.

I used to sell these from my branch in the early eighties so have a little knowledge and for the money I paid, I really couldn't have bought a new machine that would serve me as well as my 352. Secondhand might have been a different matter.

As an aside, I'm pretty sure Steve Maskery posted a tut on making his own bearing guides for the 352 for very little money or if really determined to change what is already a proven system you can buy a set from Axminster for £75.

cheers
Bob

It was me who posted the bearing mod all you need is a couple of bearings and a few washers, I think it cost me a fiver to do mine and its completely reversible.

Pete
 

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