festool ts55/ts75

[marcros]

I am looking at space in the workshop, and i don't have much spare. i currently have the table saw in the middle, but seem to be moving it around a lot.

i have noted that i predominantly use it for ripping and cross cutting hardwood. I occasionally process sheet material, normally from 4x2 feet sections, ie a sheet quartered. The space issue is made worse when ripping, because to rip an 8' length i need to find 17' plus, as well as suitable infeed and outfeed support, normally having to send the outfeed through the side door. I have removed the side extension tables because they made the space issue critical.

Undoubtedly, part of the solution is to have a clear out of household stuff, but even so, the workshop remains approx 20ft x 10ft with a bench and few other machines in there.

I am wondering whether a track saw, and a dismantle-able cutting table might be an option and sell the table saw. At least the space required is confined to the table and room to walk along it, ie the saw moves not the timber.

Does anybody use the track saw for ripping hardwoods. I prefer to buy wayney edge timber and have no bandsaw. On the table saw, i have screwed an mdf straight edge on and ran it down the table saw fence. I can see how the track saw would be better. Most of wht I buy is inch, but from time to time i might need to rip 2" or 3". Is the relevant festool saw up to doing such a thing at its max capacity (model dependant). Can it cut to width as accurately as the table saw? Is it fiddly to set it up to do so? Is it capable of being used as a cabinet makers tool, or is it for site joinery only?

I have got a RAS that I can use for cross cutting requirements, mitres. So the outstanding table saw requirements all appear to be ripping based.

thoughts?

cheers
Mark

 

[Peter T]

I regularly use my TS55 for ripping waney edged oak and maple boards and can confirm it works fine, even at max depth.

On large pieces of board it's easier to use than a band saw. I don't have a table saw. Simply lay the track in the desired position and cut. Obviously if the surface is too uneven there is the risk of the track moving but I've never had a problem.

On narrow bits of board you need to use another piece to support the back edge of the track. On the rough, sawn surface of the board the track doesn't hold its position quite as well as on a smooth surface so you need to use clamps.

Is it good enough for cabinet making? Don't know! I would never claim to be any sort of cabinet maker but I have used it to make a kitchen full of cabinets and some solid hardwood furniture. My normal process for hardwood is to rip/crosscut timber roughly to size from a board with the TS55, plane a face and edge and then thickness.

Good luck,

 

[marcros]

Thank you.
Are there any extras available to make repeatable width rip cuts, or is the answer to get/make something to make marking and measuring repeatable, and then put the rail in place.

i was thinking lst night between the 55 and 75. still not sure, but 2" biards weigh enough- even if i had a bandsaw i wouldnt fancy ripping a wide 3" board on it!

 

[Peter T]

There is an accesory for making repeat cuts -

FESTOOL ACCESSORY 495717 FS-PA Parallel side fence

which I have. It's OK but a bit pricey for what it is. Actually I find it's more useful, with the stops removed, as a means of setting the track square to an edge!

If I'm working with a hardwood board, I tend to use it as intended. If I'm working with board material, I tend to use it as a T square with a setting block to set the distance.