Fencing - Need To Replace

[SurreyHills]

I need to replace my feather edge fencing, as the wood is rotten, and am wondering if it's economical to do it myself or should I just pay someone? There's about60m to do.

The challenge from my initial brief research is that I currently have 2.94m x 1.52m panels on concrete posts and gravel boards. I can't seem to find a stockist of this size panel. So it seems I am faced with:
1) Changing everything to take standard size panels, including the concrete gravel boards
2) Making up my own panels from feather edge boards, rails etc. and fitting to the existing concrete posts and gravel boards

Any advice about the pros and cons of the 2 options or alternative suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Mike.S]

The 'panels' you have were almost certainly not installed as panels but made up on site from arris rails with feather edge boards nailed on - hence the lack of ready made replacements.

Assuming:

1) you're happy with the height of the fence (e.g. 6ft fencing would need taller posts and 3 arris rails - i suspect you have 2 at present); and/or
2) you're happy with the appearance (no desire for any of the various different styles of ready made panels); and
3) the existing posts and gravel boards are sound; then:

the most economical way, imo, is option 2 - whether you DIY or get someone in. The 2.94m length equates to the 'standard' 9 ft gap between posts beloved of fencing firms but too long for sound fencing unless the fencing rests on the top of the gravel boards or a short 'stump' is used in the middle - between the ground and the bottom of the lowest arris rail to prevent the fencing from sagging (the weather plus weight of the fencing will soon bend the arris rails unless supported). Did your existing fence suffer from this?

Other thoughts:

- do you have morticed concrete posts i.e. hole in to receive new arris rails.
- you can cut the ends of arris rails or buy them 'ended' to slot straight in (in reality likely to need trimming on one end) or buy the metal brackets. There's two types of bracket: one for concrete posts (nailed to arris rail but with metal tenons which extend into the post mortice - saves some work) and one for wooden posts (you sometimes see these used with concrete posts with a wooden post e.g. 4" x 2" bolted to the side of the concrete post).
- preservative treated timber recommended, especially since proper creosote is no longer readily available.
- might be worth pricing oak boards versus usual softwood - might be cheaper in long run.
- consider adding a capping board to the top of the fence to protect the exposed end grain against rain.
- select/check the fencing timber: live knots can drop out; wet timber can shrink - a PITA if you nail it with what you think is sufficient overlap only to see gaps appear as the timber shrinks as it dries out!

HTH

Mike

 

[gregmcateer]

I'd agree completely with Mike, except to add that sweet chestnut posts and panelling is far more weather resistant than oak - as I understand it, in ye olde days, SC was pretty much de rigeur for fencing, etc.
HTH
Greg

 

[SurreyHills]

Thanks guys for the response. I'm happy with the height and the concrete posts have morticed holes in them, and there isn't any brackets so it should make it easier. The fence only has 2 arris rails, but doesn't suffer from bending. So I'll look at replacing it myself with treated timber and getting somebody to quote for the work. Most places seem to do treated soft wood so I'll see if I can find a local supply of oak and chesnut to compare.