Felling Axe

[Rhyolith]

I do a lot of volunteer work around Wales and sometimes it involves cutting down reasonably large trees. The standard tool for this is a bow saw (for those of us without chainsaw licenses/don't like the noise), but I quite enjoyed using a hatchet for some smaller trees. So I would like to get a proper felling axe that is more suited to this task.

I appecaite that most of this is skill, but I would ideally like one that leaves a reasonaly nice feature surface on the stump and that is efficent at getting the job done quickly.

I already know how to sharpen axes so nothing on that please (yet)

Please recommend some axes, old or new. My budget is £100, but less is good I would also be interested to kniw what the abosolute best ones are if price is not object.

 

[Harbo]

Have at look at Gransfors axes

Rod

 

[Andy RV]

For a new axe you really can't go wrong with Gransfors Bruks. I've got a number of their axes and they're lovely objects!

They do offer a felling axe but it is over your budget somewhat (£120), it's perhaps a bit overkill as well unless you're planning to fell some serious timber.

A better option might be their Scandinavian Forest axe?

If you fancy the used route how about an old Elwell off ebay?

What is the most likely trunk diameter you're going to face?

 

[bugbear]

I do a lot of volunteer work around Wales and sometimes it involves cutting down reasonably large trees. The standard tool for this is a bow saw (for those of us without chainsaw licenses/don't like the noise), but I quite enjoyed using a hatchet for some smaller trees. So I would like to get a proper felling axe that is more suited to this task.

I appecaite that most of this is skill, but I would ideally like one that leaves a reasonaly nice feature surface on the stump and that is efficent at getting the job done quickly.

I already know how to sharpen axes so nothing on that please (yet)

Please recommend some axes, old or new. My budget is £100, but less is good I would also be interested to kniw what the abosolute best ones are if price is not object.

I'm not sure of size - it probably needs to vary with both size of tree and size of bicep.
I'm not sure of pattern, although s/h I don't think you'll find much other than Kent pattern, Yankee (AKA Wedge), and Kent Pattern felling (which is quite unlink a Kent pattern).

I would be inclined to buy an old Elwell (Brades, Harrison, Whitehouse) axe, and re-handle if needed.
Beautiful quality steel, should cost from £15 to £50 depending on source.

Here's a site with high prices (nigh to Gransfors), but beautiful axes. It's a helpful guide as to what to look for.

http://www.timelesstools.co.uk/axes.htm

BugBear

 

[heimlaga]

A full size felling axe from either Gränsfors or Wetterlings would be your best buy if you want somethiong new. Any elderly felling axe of the same type with enough steel left in it can be fitted with a new handle and do the same job for a fraction of the cost. The Yankee pattern is great for felling and limbing in my oppinion.
In general Scandinavian axes have harder steel than American ones. Therefore they cannot be sharpened with a file the American way. A sandstone wheel is the best way of sharpening them but a belt grinder with 80 grit paper would do. Because of the hard steel they stay sharp a lot longer than American axes.

Felling and bucking trees over 10 or 12 cm in diametre with an axe is rather inefficient. Bucking with an axe wastes roughly one trunk diametre of lenght per log. The oldtimers did it because saw blades were expensive and didn't last long in those days. Loggers worked in pairs. One man felled the tree and the other man pushed it over using a long spruce pole with a sharpened top end. As the two notches become fairly similar there is nothing that really prewents the tree from falling backwards when felling with an axe.

As soon as good quality bow saw blades and two man crosscut saws became affordable (late 1800-s) all loggers started using them. First they used the axe to cut a notch halfways through the tree and then they sawed from the back. With this method there was less risk of the tree falling backwards. Then they limbed with the axe and bucked with the saw.

I always bring a full size felling axe with me when I am logging. I cannot afford to have two chainsaws and if my only chainsaw gets stuck in a tree I use the axe to chop off the rest of the tree and free the chainsaw.
Chainsaw license..... sounds ridiculous........
Do you really neded a licence for a chainsaw in Wales? Are you allowed to ride a bicykle without license over there?

 

[bugbear]

In general Scandinavian axes have harder steel than American ones. Therefore they cannot be sharpened with a file the American way.

I was recently watching an old USA video, and was surprised (to say the least) to see an
axe being shaped with a file. I know that my "SAW Sweden" brand axe is very hard.

Edit: "SAW" appears to be "S A Wetterlings".

I must take a file and check my English Elwell/Brades/Whitehouse/Gilpin heads, to see where they
fit on the Scandinavian/USA hardness spectrum.

BugBear

 

[paulm]

There's a couple of suitable old axes here, although no bargains ! http://www.oldtools.co.uk/68-axes#

Gransfors Bruks are highly regarded, Wetterlings are just as good in my experience, and Hultafors worth a look too.

Cheers, Paul

 

[lurker]

Its not a licence.
These organisations have to cover their rears regarding litigation so demand you hold a chainsaw safety training certificate.

 

[bugbear]

Its not a licence.
These organisations have to cover their rears regarding litigation so demand you hold a chainsaw safety training certificate.

If I'm volunteering on a local scrub bash, I'd like to think the guy working next to me with a chainsaw isn't just "having a go" with it.

It's my rear I'm worried about, along with my arms, legs, head and torso.

BugBear

 

[Racers]

I got a Elwell head for 50p (car boot) and handle for £15 from Amazon, works very well.

 

[Rhyolith]

Its not a licence.
These organisations have to cover their rears regarding litigation so demand you hold a chainsaw safety training certificate.

If I'm volunteering on a local scrub bash, I'd like to think the guy working next to me with a chainsaw isn't just "having a go" with it.

It's my rear I'm worried about, along with my arms, legs, head and torso.

BugBear

Yes! I am not a fan of petrol chainsaws generally they are noisy, smelly and dangerous.

Thanks for all the links and suggestions, will look through them see what I like I terms of old axes, I know the good makes are Ewell, Gilpin, etc... but what should I be looking for in a good felling axe? Typically the trees I am dealing with have around 30cm diameter trunks, rarely much larger. However, I would like to have the ability to fell larger stuff with it efficiently.

 

[DiscoStu]

Another vote for Gransfors Axes. I have their small forest Axe and it's brilliant. Gransfors are to Axes what Veritas are to planes.

What I really like is you get a book with it and you can see the master craftsmen that build them, and you can work out who made yours as each stamp their initials into the head.

Quality is amazing - it's a thing of beauty! Took me ages to consider spending that much on an Axe that I only use occasionally, but I love it and love owning it.

 

[duncanh]

Yes! I am not a fan of petrol chainsaws generally they are noisy, smelly and dangerous.

Thanks for all the links and suggestions, will look through them see what I like I terms of old axes, I know the good makes are Ewell, Gilpin, etc... but what should I be looking for in a good felling axe? Typically the trees I am dealing with have around 30cm diameter trunks, rarely much larger. However, I would like to have the ability to fell larger stuff with it efficiently.

Chainsaws may be noisy, smelly and dangerous, but for a tree of 30cm they are the most appropriate tool for the job. Yes, you can get them down using more basic hand tools but if the aim of the task is to get the job done then use the right tool.
I work for the local wildlife trust and there's no way we would expect volunteers to take down 30cm trees with hand tools - generally we use chainsaw operators (staff and volunteers) to fell the trees whilst the remaining volunteers clear brash and move logs.

 

[acewoodturner]

I am a qualified and insured chainsaw operator although I dont do felling very often. I got qualified due to being able to mill trees with the alaskan mill on several estates and parks etc. I take down trees for my business landlord regularly on his sites. There is no way on god's earth I would do it with an axe as I consider it more dangerous than using a chainsaw. I think there is more directional control ie where the tree is going to land, with a chainsaw than there is with an axe. You can also do it yourself without having to rely on another person having to push it over. Even small tree can be very heavy especially if it falling from vertical to horizontal. I would also think that insurance for felling these tres would still be a requirement and I cant see any insurance company being interested for the above reasons. Can you get a qualification for tree felling with a axe?

Mike

 

[AJB Temple]

There is a lot of info on You Tube on felling and splitting axes. After perusing it I ended up with Granfors for two of my axes. Because I am nuts I actually bought a book on axes, felling and chopping and it reviews pretty much all modern axes. Fiskars is good, well within your budget and will work fine. Gransfors is hadn made and stamped by the guy who made it. If you like craftsmen tolls they are good and beautifully finished.

I would also add that some of the cordless electric chainsaws are getting very good now. Absolutely excellent if you are not felling all day long as there are no fumes and they are much quieter than petrol.

 

[Mo27]

I use axes at work and have tried various makes over the years. I only ever use Fiskars axes now. Cheap, light, well-balanced, unbreakable, virtally rust free and really hold an edge well. I have half a dozen in different sizes plus the loppers and can't fault any of them - the splitting axe is particulary good. I would recommend handling a few axes before buying especially if going for something expensive like Gransfors.

 

[dickm]

Surprised that the conservation groups don't seem to use the old style two-handled cross cut saws. When (much) younger we used to fell quite big stuff with those. No noise, less effort (IMHO) than even a good axe, and leaves a clean surface. Still got the old saw in the shed, but haven't yet trained any of the family to take the other end!

 

[heimlaga]

I also use axes at work when repairing log houses....except for the last two years when I have been away fropm it for healt reasons.
Fiskars axes are badly ballanced rather chunky things. Good for splitting firewood and handy to have laying under the car seat for emergencies as the handle doesn't schrink and swell with moisture. Pretty much useless for accurate axe work.

I had a closer look at our felling axes.
One is a 0,9 kg Hults Bruk from the 70-ies when they made better quality than today. The handle is 64 cm long.
This is what it looks like.

The other just says 1,2kg Made in Sweden. Same type of head as the smaller one.
This handle is also 64 cm long but the axe would benefit from a longer handle.

The smaller one is a lot better for general use. The bigger one would be more efficient for heavy felling but in our times you rarely fell and buck a tree entirely with an axe. We usually split kindling with it. The smaller one is our go to felling axe.

Here are two traditional felling axes from my part of Finland. Tnhey have thicker blades and lighter polls than their modern counterparts. Not as efficient for felling but great carpenter's axes.

 

[Rhyolith]

Surprised that the conservation groups don't seem to use the old style two-handled cross cut saws. When (much) younger we used to fell quite big stuff with those. No noise, less effort (IMHO) than even a good axe, and leaves a clean surface. Still got the old saw in the shed, but haven't yet trained any of the family to take the other end!

We do have a two man crosscut saw or more accuratly I do, but its blunt and I have yet to sharpen a saw.

 

[bugbear]

Surprised that the conservation groups don't seem to use the old style two-handled cross cut saws. When (much) younger we used to fell quite big stuff with those. No noise, less effort (IMHO) than even a good axe, and leaves a clean surface. Still got the old saw in the shed, but haven't yet trained any of the family to take the other end!

We do have a two man crosscut saw or more accuratly I do, but its blunt and I have yet to sharpen a saw.

This recent thread should have the info you need.

log-saw-sharpening-t95098.html

BugBear