Hi all, been a long time since I've been on here, will make more effort this next year!! Just wanted to know if anyone buys their FD Blades from Lesley's patterns? Might have spelt that wrong but I think you'll understand. I find it easier due to being able to pay with paypal. However the last set of FD UR 2/0 I bought would not turn corners, they kept twisting out big horrible radius'. I'm hoping it was just a bad batch. Anyone else had an experience like that.
FD Blades?
- Thread starter NewWood80
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Chippygeoff
Established Member
I buy my blades from Mikes Worshop and don't main waiting a week. I have been on e-bay and other places that advertise flying Dutchman blades and I ask myself, are they really FD blades. Like many things on e-bay there are copies. Some years ago I had a problem with number 3 blades breaking and Mike very kindly sorted it out for me but apart from that I have never had a problkem with FD blades and rate them very highly.
From the problem you experienced it sounds like there was not enough tension on the blade or you could have been cutting material that was to thick for a 2/0 blade. Just my thoughts.
From the problem you experienced it sounds like there was not enough tension on the blade or you could have been cutting material that was to thick for a 2/0 blade. Just my thoughts.
M P Hales
Established Member
Can't speak highly enough about Mikes Workshop
Approx 5 days delivery time but well worth the wait
I have tried other brands but always go back to FD
M
Approx 5 days delivery time but well worth the wait
I have tried other brands but always go back to FD
M
How do I order from mikes? I found the online ordering form but it doesn't have a uk postage option. I was only cutting 6mm plywood with them, I've not had trouble previously. I will deffinately try mikes tho as like you said, fakes are everywhere. Thanks guys
Blade selection is to me a bit of a black magic sort of thing. It becomes obvious when you have selected the wrong blade. Bad cuts, poor finish, breakages, etc Often spoiling a few hours work. I have never experienced unusual breakages with FD Blades, yes they will break, when I have expected too much from the blade. One other make of blade which in my (limited) experience consistently performs well are Olson Blades
Chippygeoff
Established Member
When you order from Mike its in US dollars, obviously. When I first started ordering I would work out what the cost was in dollars and then bring up a dollar versus pound converter and it would tell me in UK pounds how much it came to. I use my debit card and never had a problem.
I don't know if you are familiar with blade sizes. I cut mainly 18mm thick hardwoods and I use 3s, 5s, and 7s. The 3s I use for fine internal lettering work. The 5 is the main one I use most of the time and I use the 7 blades for cutting out my blanks. I get the odd one breaking now and again as Keith said. On average a blade will last approx 20 minutes of cutting time. I also have used Olson blades and they are good but a lot more money than FDs.
I don't know if you are familiar with blade sizes. I cut mainly 18mm thick hardwoods and I use 3s, 5s, and 7s. The 3s I use for fine internal lettering work. The 5 is the main one I use most of the time and I use the 7 blades for cutting out my blanks. I get the odd one breaking now and again as Keith said. On average a blade will last approx 20 minutes of cutting time. I also have used Olson blades and they are good but a lot more money than FDs.
I've tried cutting 19mm oak but found it really difficult even with a no.9 blade. I couldn't get a straight cut especially when I was turning. More practice I think. So does the $3 charge for delivery apply to the uk from mikes?
There is a certain convention on forum pages to try and be brief. I hope I don't offend anyone, but I love it when brevity leads to misunderstanding.
Sometimes a blade will not track as you expect if it has an imperceptible twist at one or both ends as it was installed. If a blade misbehaves like this I take it out and Mark the end with felt tip, and continue the project with a new blade. Then I can test the blade on some scrap at the end of the session. Then it goes in the box, or the bin.
Of course I knew what you meant but like predictive texting, sometimes saying what you mean can different to meaning what you say.NewWood80":2ekt3i2t said:
Sometimes a blade will not track as you expect if it has an imperceptible twist at one or both ends as it was installed. If a blade misbehaves like this I take it out and Mark the end with felt tip, and continue the project with a new blade. Then I can test the blade on some scrap at the end of the session. Then it goes in the box, or the bin.
stevebuk
Established Member
There tends to be about a 5 degree bias on the blades that veers to the right as you sit at the saw, if you want a straight line its best to feed your wood slightly off centre and this takes up the bias and delivers a straight cut, if turning a corner ie left to right, i tend to hold one part of the wood still and pivot on it usually causing quite a nice circle or round cut..
hope this is clear, if not let me know and i will try and say it better, (tired at the moment)..
hope this is clear, if not let me know and i will try and say it better, (tired at the moment)..
geoff3
Established Member
Hi
Newwood80.
In answer to your question about postage with F/D Mike.
I just tottal the price of the blades in dollars and leave the postage
and conversion to Mike to fill in........geoff3.........
Newwood80.
In answer to your question about postage with F/D Mike.
I just tottal the price of the blades in dollars and leave the postage
and conversion to Mike to fill in........geoff3.........
Blacklabradorman
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Regarding 'turning' a guy at a show gave me a really good tip. He said that scrollers can be left or right-handed and he didn't mean which hand we use.
He meant that some people do better turning the piece clockwise whilst others are better turning anti-clockwise. Really helped me as I always turned clockwise before...guess the type of blade could also affect things.
He meant that some people do better turning the piece clockwise whilst others are better turning anti-clockwise. Really helped me as I always turned clockwise before...guess the type of blade could also affect things.
Bryan Bennett
Established Member
I must admit that I prefer to cut anti clockwise,for some reason which I cannot explain.I seem to have a better control following the line.
Bryan
Bryan
I'm sure that's down to how the blades are made as they always are biased to one side, it's funny how quickly you adjust to not actually cutting in a straight line but always have a slight feed angle.
Thanks guys I'm just gonna be more patient and practice more.
James
Thanks guys I'm just gonna be more patient and practice more.
James
