AES
Established Member
Would anyone with knowledge of the above scroll saw please look at my "Help Needed" post in the General Woodworking Section here please. ANY suggestion MOST welcome.
TIA
TIA
EX-21 CE Electrical Help Needed Please
- Thread starter AES
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AES
Established Member
Gents,
If any Excalibur scroll saw owners don't know where the machine's fuse is, or how to change it (like I didn't!) then have a look at the above post on the General Woodworking Section. Attachment 4.
HTH
If any Excalibur scroll saw owners don't know where the machine's fuse is, or how to change it (like I didn't!) then have a look at the above post on the General Woodworking Section. Attachment 4.
HTH
chaoticbob
Established Member
Hi AES. I don't have the same scroll saw as you, but I recently had a failure on a bench-top milling machine which is electrically similar - a 500W brushed DC motor driven by a variable speed unit. In my case it turned out to be the motor (unlikely in your case) but I went through the logical process of tracking it down as it could have been the drive unit.
I have read your thread in the General Woodworking section and there is good advice there but here is my tuppence worth.
Firstly, as you have established that the drive unit is receiving mains voltage the fault is either in the drive or the motor. Because (presumably) the new fuse you installed didn't blow, the bang you heard probably means that something has shorted and gone open circuit. It's unlikely to be a rectifier capacitor or a motor winding in my opinion as the motor would still do something if only 'stuttering'.
In any case you're going to have to extract the drive board however painful the process - scraped knuckles and much cursing in my case! There will likely be spade connectors on the circuit board - make sure you label the wires/connectors and photograph before disconnecting (DAMHIK).
When you get the board out examine it for obvious signs of a problem - eg soot around components or a blown track. If there is something obvious you're in luck - the board has to be replaced or repaired, so some progress. In this case it would still be wise to check out the motor just in case a motor fault triggered a drive board fault. It shouldn't have but it's not impossible. If you haven't got a battery you can hook up to the motor as suggested earlier, it might be worth investing in a cheap multimeter (they can be had for under £5 in the UK at least) and checking the resistance between the brushes and between the brushes and earth as you rotate the motor.
If there is no obvious problem with the board you can check it out by attaching a 220V incandescent bulb (if you can get one!) to the output and see if it illuminates or (if you get a multimeter) looking for a voltage on the output.
Having said all that I'd put my money on the board having failed - it's the percentage bet - and suggest that if you don't want to get involved in the electrical jiggery-pokery you should just get a replacement board.
I should say that I'm not an electronics bod - this is just what I have gleaned from experience and research fixing my own machines.
Good luck, Bob.
I have read your thread in the General Woodworking section and there is good advice there but here is my tuppence worth.
Firstly, as you have established that the drive unit is receiving mains voltage the fault is either in the drive or the motor. Because (presumably) the new fuse you installed didn't blow, the bang you heard probably means that something has shorted and gone open circuit. It's unlikely to be a rectifier capacitor or a motor winding in my opinion as the motor would still do something if only 'stuttering'.
In any case you're going to have to extract the drive board however painful the process - scraped knuckles and much cursing in my case! There will likely be spade connectors on the circuit board - make sure you label the wires/connectors and photograph before disconnecting (DAMHIK).
When you get the board out examine it for obvious signs of a problem - eg soot around components or a blown track. If there is something obvious you're in luck - the board has to be replaced or repaired, so some progress. In this case it would still be wise to check out the motor just in case a motor fault triggered a drive board fault. It shouldn't have but it's not impossible. If you haven't got a battery you can hook up to the motor as suggested earlier, it might be worth investing in a cheap multimeter (they can be had for under £5 in the UK at least) and checking the resistance between the brushes and between the brushes and earth as you rotate the motor.
If there is no obvious problem with the board you can check it out by attaching a 220V incandescent bulb (if you can get one!) to the output and see if it illuminates or (if you get a multimeter) looking for a voltage on the output.
Having said all that I'd put my money on the board having failed - it's the percentage bet - and suggest that if you don't want to get involved in the electrical jiggery-pokery you should just get a replacement board.
I should say that I'm not an electronics bod - this is just what I have gleaned from experience and research fixing my own machines.
Good luck, Bob.
Last edited:
AES
Established Member
Thanks Bob.
As you say I THINK it's the PCB and I'm actually half way (??) through getting to it - NOT easy! And it's slow because just as you say, I'm taking pix of all the clever bits, AND writing everything down, AND "linking" all the removed parts to the spare parts diagrams & lists in the Manual.
To get the PCB out it looks very much as if the motor has got to come out anyway - I'm just at that stage now - so I'll test it as you suggest once out.
Right now I'm waiting for Dictum to give me a price and delivery quote for a new PCB (plus a couple of spare fuses)!
BTW, when doing my original fault diagnosis I fitted the 1 spare fuse that came with the machine and have now taken it out again. It's not open circuit (I can see the "filament" intact inside the glass cartridge).
Once I get the whole lot apart and have the PCB price I'll post here further.
Thanks for the encouragement. I have a lot of "other stuff" going on right now and though I need the machine I really COULD have done without this job right now!
Cheers
As you say I THINK it's the PCB and I'm actually half way (??) through getting to it - NOT easy! And it's slow because just as you say, I'm taking pix of all the clever bits, AND writing everything down, AND "linking" all the removed parts to the spare parts diagrams & lists in the Manual.
To get the PCB out it looks very much as if the motor has got to come out anyway - I'm just at that stage now - so I'll test it as you suggest once out.
Right now I'm waiting for Dictum to give me a price and delivery quote for a new PCB (plus a couple of spare fuses)!
BTW, when doing my original fault diagnosis I fitted the 1 spare fuse that came with the machine and have now taken it out again. It's not open circuit (I can see the "filament" intact inside the glass cartridge).
Once I get the whole lot apart and have the PCB price I'll post here further.
Thanks for the encouragement. I have a lot of "other stuff" going on right now and though I need the machine I really COULD have done without this job right now!
Cheers
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