Engineer's Vice for Metalworking

[J_SAMa]

Mod: not sure if this is the right place to post this, if not, please move the thread.
The dents in my woodworking vice jaws strong suggest that I buy a proper metalworking vice... I don't want to mount it to my woodworking bench as there is not enough space so am thinking of somehow mounting it to a bench hook-like device, and then clamping the whole assembly in my woodworking vice. That way I can take it off whenever I want. Anyone using a similar solution?
Also, can someone suggest a cheap, but good metalworking vice? I'm trying to avoid vintage (don't want to do all the restoration work).
Thank you,
Sam

 

[RogerP]

Mod: not sure if this is the right place to post this, if not, please move the thread.
The dents in my woodworking vice jaws strong suggest that I buy a proper metalworking vice... I don't want to mount it to my woodworking bench as there is not enough space so am thinking of somehow mounting it to a bench hook-like device, and then clamping the whole assembly in my woodworking vice. That way I can take it off whenever I want. Anyone using a similar solution?
Also, can someone suggest a cheap, but good metalworking vice? I'm trying to avoid vintage (don't want to do all the restoration work).
Thank you,
Sam

Yes, I've been using that solution for many years. It works well enough but if you intend much bashing about of bits of metal about you may do better getting an anvil. I also have a properly mounted engineering vice on a metal bench, but a medium sized one mounted as you propose is very handy at times.

 

[PhilM]

Like this?

It's just a batten screwed to a bit of plywood.

I would think a vintage vice should be ok, there's not a lot to go wrong. Mine is at least 30 years old, Sheffield made of course.

Phil

 

[shipbadger]

And another with the same arrangement. Just watch where you fix the vice onto the plywood or you may lose the ability to clamp longish pieces of metal in an uprightish position in the jaws. Also be careful to clean any metal swarf out of the woodworking vice jaws before you tighten them up or clamping anything in them. Don't ask how I know. Just because you think they are underneath a protective piece of wood does not mean that swarf won't find it's way there.

Tony Comber

 

[J_SAMa]

Thank you all! Are they fixed with coach screws fixed to the wood or secured with countersunk nuts on the underside? I get a feeling that countersinking the nuts would take off too much would and make the holes too weak so are coach screws a better choice?
I've been looking at this vice:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-183065- ... 001O51JCS/
It's "light duty", but that's exactly what I'll be doing so it's probably enough.
And this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Record-1Ton-E-W ... 0001GS172/
I know the old Record made exceptional vices, but what of the modern ones?
I would buy a vintage one, but only if it's in really good condition (in which case it's likely going to cost more than a new one so...)

 

[J_SAMa]

And another with the same arrangement. Just watch where you fix the vice onto the plywood or you may lose the ability to clamp longish pieces of metal in an uprightish position in the jaws.

By that, do you mean that I should preferably mount the vice so that the fixed (back) jaw hangs over the front edge of wood? I would have to mount the vice fairly closely to the edge to achieve that wouldn't I?

 

[Cheshirechappie]

The Record 1-Ton is the vice I use for my home metalworking. It's hardly the best vice ever made, but it's perfecly serviceable, and a nice size for most of the metalwork jobs that crop up for a woodworker. Don't try to use it as heavy-duty press, but otherwise it should give every satisfaction.

Just a small tip - buy a pair of soft jaws (fibre jaws) to go with it. Most useful for gripping things you don't want marked by the hard jaw serrations. You can improvise with a couple of bits of aluminium angle, but they struggle a bit with some things - the real fibre jaws are the better bet. PhilM has a pair in his vice, shown in his post above.

(On mounting it - yes, ideally the back jaw is slightly over the bench edge, so that a long piece can be gripped upright. The position of the vice bolting-down holes is designed to make that easy. However, if mounting in the wood vice, you may have to compromise and just go for the firmest mounting you can get.)

 

[AndyT]

And here's another one the same way. It's a Record 1 ton which has been adequate for all the sort of odd jobs I have needed it for. It was made in Sheffield though and iirc it was under 20 quid.

Edit: with soft jaws and coach bolts.

 

[woodpig]

I believe Record tools were bought out by an American firm, Irwin. I think Record vices are now made in China, buy a good old one if you can.

 

[Racers]

I have the same setup but with a lip round three sides to catch the swarf, saves your bench and helps the clean up.

Pete

 

[AndyT]

I have the same setup but with a lip round three sides to catch the swarf, saves your bench and helps the clean up.

Pete

Having read Pete's tip a while back, so do I, but I used an old photo.

 

[bugbear]

I have the same setup but with a lip round three sides to catch the swarf, saves your bench and helps the clean up.

Pete

Make sure the metal vice is posititioned so that the handle doesn't foul the woodwork vice beneath!

BugBear

 

[Harbo]

This is mine fastened with M8 bolts - clears the vice handle below:

Rod

 

[bugbear]

My vice is rather smaller than those shown so far, and is held in my workmate
(which is where I do the dirty work, to keep my bench cleaner).

http://web.archive.org/web/200310041504 ... #vise_mate

Oops - image is gone. Copy attached. Note the "two point" clamping of the base board.

BugBear