Electrolytic de-rusting=dull grey tools! :-(

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CraigyBoy

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Hello,

I built one of the electrolytic de-rusting tanks a few days back, and whilst the results are impressive, I'm left with dull grey metal. I have tried water, lightly sanding it, steel wool, metal polish, t-cut metal polish, alu oven cleaner and silver cleaner - all without much luck!! Still grey and mucky looking.

Any advice on how to make tools nice and shiny again? I currently have something sat in some coca-cola to see if that does the trick.

Cheers Craig
 
I did this a couple of months back. The electrolysis bit went well, but, like you, the result I got was dull.

I saw the youtube Coke trick and tried that. Nowt. Not an Iota of difference. Perhaps you have to use The Real Thing. Mine was cheap stuff from Aldi, but it made no difference whatsoever.

I think we have to remember that shininess is a direct result of the fineness of the surface. So a rough surface (microscopically speaking) is never going to look shiny, no matter how "clean" it is.

I think you just have to keep polishing.

Cheers
Steve
 
Steve Maskery":lp37vffi said:
Perhaps you have to use The Real Thing. Mine was cheap stuff from Aldi, but it made no difference whatsoever.

I think it's the phosphoric acid in Cola that does whatever and as all Colas have it as an ingredient - I can't see Coka Cola working and other brands not.
 
Will you be hanging it on the wall, or using it? Is it shiny enough to slide smoothly across your shooting board - that's about as shiny as it needs to be...
 
I've not used electrolysis, only citric acid, which also leaves a greyish surface. The most useful thing I have for getting things looking like steel again is a dense brass wire brush.

They don't seem too easy to come by, but one for suede shoes might do.
 
Don't know how suitable it might be, but there are electro polishing processes which basically bring up a brighter finish. Google might throw something up, although i've a sense that it's a fairly touchy process to operate.

Another option is mechanical polishing, as in with buffing mops and abrasive soaps. e.g. http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/ Just be aware though that to do it reasonably quickly needs lots of power and speed - and hence good gloves, goggles and an apron. The mickey mouse kits sold for use with n electric drill will polish, but very slowly.

A few trial runs would be wise, as it'd be possible to do harm by e.g. polishing a corner and rounding it off. i.e. if trying this route be careful of removing too much metal. You could trial different grits to get the finish you want, you may not want bright and shiny.

There's lots offering polishing services, buy a motorcycle magazine like Classic Bike and you should find at least several offering the service (often with plating and maybe electro polishing) in the back pages.

Perhaps the best option of all may be something like glass bead, vapour or nut shell blasting. Depending on the material this brings metal up to almost any finish you like, and if using the right process removes minimal material. Some like nut shell blasting and types of bead blasting are very mild and are used on parts like carburettors in soft materials like die cast aluminium and zinc alloys that won't tolerate material removal to give a nice factory fresh satin finish.

Be careful who you use if you go any of the commercial routes. The more specialised businesses routinely involved in automotive restoration work are usually very skilled and used to working with precision parts. Others can be very rough, and don't use skilled labour. Get the right guys doing the right sort of work, and ask for advice to get what you want.

There should again be service providers in bike mags like the above.

ian

ian
 
Thanks all.

I think that physical polishing is the way to go initially. I don't want it perfect, but I do what some of the things to look nice. It's not simply a case of then being usable!

The coke was interesting. It made it worse from a colour perspective, but it did seem easier to sand! 120 grit brought the shine out quite quickly whereas before the coke it was hard to sand as well. Unfortunately it's pretty scratched now, but a bit more sanding will sort that.

I might see if I can get some sanding/polishing pads for my drill!

I did wonder if I was doing something wrong though as some of the pictures on t'internet show stuff coming out good as new!

Cheers Craig
 
My neighbour who makes large scale locos, needed to clean up castings so he built a sand blasting cabinet a few years ago out of chipboard and some polycarbonate I gave him. Cost him next to nothing.

I've always intended to copy it but never got round to it! :(

He uses a medium size compressor and gets excellent results on precision parts.
 
The phosphoric acid method will kill the rust...I think it converts the ferrous oxide (brown rust) into ferric oxide (black oxide) which will seal in the metal quite well but is dull as you suggest.

A quick way to do this is not Coke but either "Aluminium cleaner" or "Rust Remover" sold at Machine Mart. It is dirt cheap:

HERE

One is stronger than the other...that is all...they are both very strong...concentrated really..so you MUST be careful...use goggles and gloves and protective clothing...this stuff burns!

The aluminium cleaner is VERY effective on cast aluminium tables...from this:

inca3.jpg


......to this...

DSC_00027.JPG


With steel tools you have, as others have rightly said, concentrate on the flatness...planes and chisel backs need pure hard labour and elbow grease.

I start with a flat piece of glass...plate glass is best...and use 80/100 grit to really cut the rubbish off and flatten the steel. Once I get things flat and square...I move up to 180/240 grit...both carbide paper.

I then use 3M Micro mesh (available on fleaBay) to go up the grits all the way to where you are satisfied with the finish. If you want a mirror finish...this is achieveable with up to 12000 mesh.

For bits where it isn't important to be flat...I polish with a brass brush and if you want a better finish..some cutting compound on a buffing wheel.

Hope this helps

Jim
 
I use elbow grease, lots of it accompanied by copious quantities of w/d papers, right down to 1200g:

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After that, bits can be polished on the leather wheel of the Tormek and by using a Proxxon drill with polishing wheels - Rob
 
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