Easy outs and left hand drill bits

[rpfn140378]

Hi all.
Does any of you own a set of easy outs or left hand drill bits? I'm currently looking for a set of those, not because I really need right now but just to have in case of emergency, you never know when you will break a bolt and I hate running to the shop hunting for this kind of stuff when I'm really busy.
I have read some reviews about a set of easy outs form laser tools which some guys say that they snap while trying to unscrew a bolt
If any of you uses one of these sets, what make do you guys use? Where did you buy them?

 

[DTR]

Have a look at this thread:

removing-a-broken-machine-screw-t67229.html

 

[AndyT]

I have a set of extractors similar to those shown in the linked thread - cheap ones by Draper, bought from a car parts shop back when I had to maintain my own car. I have used them successfully but not often. In order to be hard enough to bite into the broken screw they end up brittle and easy to snap in the smaller, more useful sizes. Also, you will need some good quality drill bits in the right sizes - they will need to be hard enough to make headway in the tough steel used in fasteners.

For rusted screws in wood I've had more success using a small cut-off wheel in a Dremel to make a slot across the end.

 

[powertools]

As a mechanic by trade I have this drill set and very often the broken part unscrews during the drilling process.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bits/l ... l-bit-sets


I have this extractor set these knock into a predrilled hole and cut their own splines as they go in and therefore grip the whole of the broken bolt from the inside unlike the tapered type with the spiral that only grip a small section at the top of the hole.

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/10-Screw-Ex ... /index.htm

 

[rpfn140378]

"For rusted screws in wood I've had more success using a small cut-off wheel in a Dremel to make a slot across the end."
AndyT, that is a brilliant idea, never thought about it.

 

[Eric The Viking]

The other good technique is to heat the screw, enough for the heat to conduct down it to the threads.

Sometimes the end of a large soldering iron will do it (a blob of solder helps the conduction), but when the wood surface doesn't matter, for example de-metalling stuff for the planer, I borrow the Domestic Controller's kitchen blowlamp and get told-off later.

The wood chars, but not too far in (and I'm planing the surface anyway). Usually, once the screw's got to near red heat, you can apply a screwdriver when it's cooled and it'll come out easily. Incidentally, I find you can't beat diamond screwdriver bits - they grip where others give up. For crossheads, a sharp tap with a ball pein hammer will often reshape torn slots too, enough to get the screw out for Mole grips to work on it.

E.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Give the screwdriver a good clout with a lump hammer, then attempt to do the thing up (this cracks the rust without damaging the slot) - quite often works for wood screws. Get your retaliation in first - do it before you strip the head, not after.
With bolts and set screws heat and a wallop sometimes works.