earnshaw bros

[Philly]

Here's the video link for you, Neil.
Cheers
Philly

 

[Digit]

Let's know how you go Neil. If I can do it, you can do it!

Roy.

 

[bugbear]

Wooden planes with a narrow mouth are capable of producing the finest shavings and finish.

And wooden jack planes with a thick blade are capable of REALLY shifting material ;-)

BugBear

 

[Digit]

And wooden jack planes with a thick blade are capable of REALLY shifting material

As an ex-apprentice I can verify that and thank the God of machines for affordable planers and thicknessers!

Roy.

 

[neilyweely]

have spent the day making a cubicle for a toilet in a curry house!!!!

So, the plane may be ok. I think I will leave her as she is for the time being at least, and see how she goes. I will watch and learn from philly's video later on this evening when I am clean again, need to catch my breath first.

Guys what would I do without y'all?? Am gonna get some use from this plane, and, in spite of what digit says about planer/thicknesser's I remain unconvinced. I have a thicknesser, a ryobi one which suits at the moment, and I certainly prefer the soft sound of a hand plane to the bump and whirr of the thicknesser- and I'm not entirely convinced you get better results with a thicknesser either.

Am considering stripping her back totally, and trying to square it all off. Is this a good idea, or should I leave well alone?

The bottom as flat, but the corners leading from the bottom up the sides are rounded off, and am wondering if they should be a right angle?

Whaddya think men?

Neil

 

[Digit]

Don't mistake me Neil, I prefer hand work to using machines, quiet, dust free more satisfying. But planing a large rough board by hand down to finishing size is damned hard work and not my idea of fun.
I finish plane by hand as Norm's wide belt sander is never gonna achieve the same finish as my wooden planes.

Roy.

 

[neilyweely]

funny that, public conventional wisdom is that you plane then sand, but you are right, my number 4 leaves the sander standing.

Digit - what should I do with the wedge thing, should I rub it back?
It seems ok, just covered in shat. Think I might. But only if you tell me it's ok. That way if it goes wrong I can blame you, and I am not accountable!!!

thanks mate

neil (still stinkin of madras!)

 

[Digit]

Before I did anything to it I would check its fit into the cheeks and against the iron. If it's a lousy fit you might end up having to make another one anyway.

Roy.

 

[neilyweely]

ok digit

I am gonna do a job on it in the morning and then i will check in with you.
what do you think of varnishing it? Good idea, or not?

Anyroad, you have been a real help, so far. Did I tell you I got it for a quid???

 

[Digit]

The traditional finish has always been boiled Linseed oil, Beech tends to soak it up like a sponge. This prevents moisture being absorbed and helps stabilize the wood.
If that has been so treated I very much doubt that varnish would even stick!. Also the varnish would soon vanish from the sole allowing moisture in.
My advise would be to stick with the tried and proven remedy, makes the plane slide better as well.

Roy.

 

[bugbear]

Am considering stripping her back totally, and trying to square it all off. Is this a good idea, or should I leave well alone?

Easy decision to defer.
[/quote]

The bottom as flat, but the corners leading from the bottom up the sides are rounded off, and am wondering if they should be a right angle?
[/quote]

For a jack, a flat (and square) bottom is optional, to a degree.

The round corners are just signs of wear. I'd prefer to keep depth in the body, rather than remove enough sole to make the corners neat.

For the moment, I'd concentrate on the blade and wedge.

Oh, and if you're considering finishes, keep any wax or oil OFF THE WEDGE!

BugBear

 

[neilyweely]

you know what, its amazing how stupid a supposed educated, qualified man can be. Now you've told me it stands to reason that you wouldn't, but I was so close to rubbing it back and varnishing the wedge. Prob is that it's covered in some weird dark varnish stuff, that looks God awful.

What do you suggest Bugbear? Bloody hell, I need a guide! I think I'm gonna rub it back and linseed oil it. I reckon thats the best thing for it.

Unless you tell me otherwise. Wood is ok by itself, eh? I mean, the wedge will be ok with nothing on, won't it?

I don't know if it is Beech, but it looks like it may be. It isn't oak.

So, unless you object for a reason other than aesthetics that is what I shall do. Tonight.

Thanks folks

Neil

 

[Digit]

I use boiled Linseed oil and not found any problems.

Roy.

 

[plover22]

Hi Guys I am a newbie and this is my first post so bear with me if I mess up.

I think the other posters are right, I have just bought a very nice 1/8" chisel on ebay which is marked Hearnshaw Bros in a similar style.

I have been collecting old tools for years and like to use them as often as possible, I have a similar plane, well used and a little battered but it is a beautiful plane to work with.

I have attached a picture of mine with it's little sister and a couple of my other miniatures, the miniature tools are all made by me, I tried to make the miniature plane look as much like the big one as possible so I did not over finish it, the big one is 17" long and the miniature is 4" long (the pound coin is for scale). The handle on the miniature is a little too small for scale, I will change it when I get the chance.

And yes the miniature works.

I work mostly in metal but have recently tried furniture restoration as another hobby, I run a company that makes blast cleaning equipment for hobbyists like car and motorcycle collectors, I also buy and refurbish houses along with my missus. Restoring is my passion, the worse condition a thing is in the more pleasure there is in restoring it.

Regards

John (Plover22)

 

[salvage]

From the photo it looks like the wedge has been cut short - leaving the contact area small and only farther up the blade

Try cutting a new wedge,where the taper ends considerably deeper into the block