Drylining

[Noel]

Nearing the completion of phase 1 (well first room) of our loft conversion and it's time to sort out the wall finish. Two sides are block, the remaining two sides are rafters with the usual insulation stuffed between them. Was going to go along the traditional route with plasterboard and plaster. Then thought about drylining and paint. I know the 12mm stuff is tapered. Canny find a picture of the stuff but am I right in assuming it's tapered on all 4 sides? And how do you handle the joints if you have to cut a sheet and have no taper? Presume it's reasonably simple to join the tapered edges with scrim tape, bonding (or similar) and bit of sanding?
Anybody familiar with this?
TIA

Rgds

Noel

 

[Hitch]

Hi Noel, i dont know if theres any plasters here, but theres a couple of good lads over at Trusted Tradesmen that would be happy to help im sure.

http://www.trustedtradesmen.com/forum/f ... asp?FID=24

 

[CHJ]

...snip.. Canny find a picture of the stuff but am I right in assuming it's tapered on all 4 sides?

No, only on the long sides on the ones I have come across.

They come off a continuos process extrusion and are just cut to length as they emerge.

...And how do you handle the joints if you have to cut a sheet and have no taper? Presume it's reasonably simple to join the tapered edges with scrim tape, bonding (or similar) and bit of sanding?
Anybody familiar with this?
TIA

As a non professional, just a DIYer, I have made sure that the non tapered edge is secured to the underlying joint support batten with a gap between the sheets (for filler/bonding agent) and dressed the outer card surface with a coarse grit block to form a narrow bevel.

The last partition wall I did shows no movement cracks after four years. No scrim tape was used but the 'Plaster' joining compound was a lot stronger (and harder when cured) than any I had had experience with before.

No doubt someone earning their living at this will be along shortly to enlighten us both on the correct method.

 

[engineer one]

bit of a while since i did any, but. one thing i do remember is that you have
to think about how you are laying the boards to ensure that you have
as few joints as possible. remember that you can buy boards of 10x5
also and measuring might make life easier.

you should try to have all the joints meet over supports so that the
joints are supported, and it is easier to keep them straight and level.

i would suggest using the ready mixed finish plaster to cover the joints,
and the scrim does make life easier. use proper dry wall screws, and
preferably a dry wall chuck to ensure that the screws do not go too deep.

i guess you know that it is easy to cut using a knife to score on one side along a straight edge, then just bending over to break in two. finally,
just clean up the paper edge with your knife.

the sheets are a bit heavy in the largest size, and maybe you need a mate
to help you move them and hold it. or you could buy the aluminium
foot that pivots and allows you to hold the sheet in one place whilst you
screw it in. always, make the bottom piece only a 1/2 above the floor or lowest surface.

hope this helps
paul :wink:

 

[OLD]

I have just used this system on my garden studio (click www and go to 5 interior)
Lafarge have info http://www.lafargeplasterboard.co.uk/drywall_manual/finishing/default.html
taping and jointing full section a pdf
you need wide taping knife and trowels for internal /external corners plus scrapers use self adhesive scrim tape in fact all the materials including the pre mixed filler/finisher came from Wicks

 

[jasonB]

I use it quite a bit as I'm not the worlds best plasterer.

Sheets are only tapered on the long edges, you can buy a cutter to chamfer the short edges or just do it with a stanley knife.

Use the self adhesive fibreglass skrim tape as its easier than the paper tape.

Fill with a proper joint compound not finish or bonding, Gyproc Easyfill is the one most people use, apply with a 8" taping knife and buy a drywall sanding block to sand with.

Have you got room to get the 8x4 sheets into the loft? Also if your rafters are a bit uneven and not perfectly spaced at 400cts you will have a wavy surface that cant be smoothed out with a skim!.

Jason

 

[Noel]

Thanks all for your advice. Familar with ordinary plasterboard as we pretty well built our house (see left) ourselves. I've just never done any drylining before. Had a good look over the LaFarge stuff and it seems simple enough and as I can't plaster for sixpence reckon I'll get a good finish and save a few hundred quid in the process.

Many thanks

Noel

PS, Philly, did I see you doing a bit of drylining in your new place?

 

[Jake]

It never looks as good as a skim, though.

 

[Les Mahon]

Noel,

I drylined all of my house, and this weekend we were discussing what the best and worst jobs in the house were - the drylining was the worst. It was the one thing that if I was doing the job again I would change - board it and get it skimmed professionally would be my choice now. I found it difficult to get a decent finish and the gyproc stuff for filling was mighty hard to sand if you did not get it right

If it was me, and it was a loft with funny angles etc. I'd factor the value of my time into the equation and definatly get it skimmed!

Just my opinon of course!
Les