Drilling holes at an angle

[robin_shepherd]

Hello all,

I'm currently trying to get my head around how to drill repeated holes at a consistent angle. For example please have a look at the attached image of a stool with splayed dowel legs. In this example there have been 4 holes drilled all at the same angle for the legs to fit into.

I'm thinking that it's a case of making a wedge-like object, clamping the workpiece onto it and then drilling with a pillar drill. Is this the case? I imagine that getting all the holes drilled accurately could be rather difficult. Or do the much more experienced people than me have a better solution? Any input would be much appreciated.

Many Thanks.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Most pilar drill tables rotate - just off set it to suit. Draw lines on the work indicating the direction of the leg splay and align these with the fall line of the table.

Regards Mick

 

[Steve Maskery]

Assuming you have a pillar drill:
Attach a large false table to the table of your PD and screw a couple of battens to it to make a V. Tilt the table and sit your stool blank in it. You can drill all four holes this way.

With a brace and bit:
I've never done this myself, but this is my understanding of it.
Set a sliding bevel to your required angle and place it on the bench next to where you are drilling. Drill by eye, using the sliding bevel as a reference. I guess it takes a bit of skill and practice.

S

 

[Spindle]

Hi

This is my set up when drilling the leg holes for a spinning wheel:

Regards Mick

 

[AndyT]

Like Steve said with a brace and bit is easier than you might think. You can get the lead screw started then look closely at the bevel to get the angle right and adjust as the bit starts to bite. As most augur bits are quite long and you can go slowly, this can be really quite accurate.
For compound angles you need an angled line on the work to line up with the base of the bevel.

 

[xy mosian]

Having someone sight the line of a hand guided drill can be done as seen. It works very well. With an auger the situation is a little easier as a sliding bevel can be used with the blade actually touching the auger itself. If you need to do this many times, and have the equipment, then Steve nailed it.
xy

 

[xy mosian]

I'm going to add something I've just thought of. The spade type bit, used above, did not drill a straight hole when used at an angle only slightly further from vertical than shown above. The bit may have been sharpened off centre, or it may have been folowing grain. My own preference, for any more Windsor chairs, would either be an auger, hand or machine, or a twist drill.
xy

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I use forstner bits in the pillar drill

Regards Mick

 

[Phil Pascoe]

When you've done one that you think near perfect, you could clamp it to a 30mm - 40mm piece of scrap (scrap on top) and drill out through the seat through the scrap, and you've got a pattern for any more you wish to make.

 

[custard]

Angled drilling is one of those jobs that appears a bit daunting, but when you actually do it you find it's a breeze. The choice of drill bit is probably the most important thing, get the right bit and unless you've got ten thumbs you'll find it's all pretty straightforward.

You can jig it to a fraction of a degree, but for most applications a very simple jig is all you need. The furniture user's eye is pretty forgiving when it comes to small errors, but the furniture maker's eye is pretty good at laying out the angles in the first place...a rare and happy combination!

 

[bugbear]

Angled drilling is one of those jobs that appears a bit daunting, but when you actually do it you find it's a breeze. The choice of drill bit is probably the most important thing

Indeed. If the angle is low, the perimeter of the bit can engage before the central point, rendering drilling impossible; the old forged centre bits are particular prone to this.

This is why the old chair makers stuck with spoon bits.

BugBear