Drill stops

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Can't really comment on this particular design, but stops can damage the surface of the timber you are working on. Not so bad if you are able to plane or sand the marks away,, but a pain in the butt if it's a polished or veneered board. As I have recently found out!

If I can't use the depth stop on my pillar drill, because the material is too bulky, then I'm going to have to have to find one of those wider ring types, that are kinder on the surface of the work.
However, Rutlands Aluminium Circular Drill Guide, used in conjunction with the drill stops , would probably sort out this problem
 
The stops (or countersinks) that fix to the drill bit with a grub-screw into the spiral are unreliable, slipping and moving - the Rutland ones with a clamp force look like a better idea - worth a punt for a tenner?
 
I think @robgul has a point, just buy them for a tenner. What I am using them for is to set the depth on drill bits for my doweling jig, it is just another idea to help speed up the process in that it will save not having to reset the depth if the two parts are not equal and just a case of swap out the drill.

The stops (or countersinks) that fix to the drill bit with a grub-screw into the spiral are unreliable, slipping and moving
Yes they can be, you have to get them to lock on missing the flutes.

Thanks for all advice, always appreciated.
 
Often use a small block of softwood with a hole in the middle, works well, fully adjustable and you can make lots of different sizes in a few minutes.
 
Often use a small block of softwood with a hole in the middle, works well, fully adjustable and you can make lots of different sizes in a few minutes.
Not sure how this would work, is it adjustable in the sense of cutting your wood to different thicknesses? Also does this not reduce visability??

I like the look of those rutland depth stops, the normal ones (by normal I mean the ones that come with a kit and never get used) always seem unreliable, so the split ring idea seems solid.

As far as marking the surface, I'd make up a washer from a scrap of ply.
 
Not sure how this would work, is it adjustable in the sense of cutting your wood to different thicknesses? Also does this not reduce visability??

I like the look of those rutland depth stops, the normal ones (by normal I mean the ones that come with a kit and never get used) always seem unreliable, so the split ring idea seems solid.

As far as marking the surface, I'd make up a washer from a scrap of ply.
Move the bit in and out of the chuck to adjust depth, different lengths of wood give you more options etc. Bit of dowel or thin square stock with a hole in the middle works well. I would've thought it's a common thing to use. Visibility never an issue with me.

Here you go, from 30 secs in:

 
that makes sense now, having seen the video, That looks like it would work well, I'll have to make a few up
 
Well I went for the ones from Rutlands at a tenner and must say they are nicely made and fit onto my drill bits well, easier to clamp on because they clamp round the bit compared to the ones held by a grub screw locking onto the drill bit. So if you want a set of cheap stops, I cannot comment on durability but with no moving parts there is not a lot to go wrong then these are great for the cost. Also got a fast delivery from Rutlands.
 
Just an update, if you do buy these then on first use you may find that there is a slight burr where the slot was cut, you just need to tap a drill through and it comes out as a shard. Not complaining because they were only a tenner, had they been fifteen then I would be less happy they were not deburred.
 
Often use a small block of softwood with a hole in the middle
Currently looking into this idea as another option, fixed length spacers will / should give repitition if done right. Rather than drilling wood this gave me the idea of using tubing / conduit or similar, will give more info if I find a nice method.
 

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