Door mitre??

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mailee

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Can anyone help me here? I am in the process of making a full height panelled door although it is a narrow one as there will be two of them for a cupboard. I am having problems with the mitred moulding on the inside edge. I have cut the mortices and cut one of the tennons but what is thbest way to mitre the moulding. I have just done one and although it isn't bad it is not a great joint either having a slight gap. It is a long time since I have built one using this method and the grey cells arent working too well today. TIA. :?
 
It may not be what you want to hear, but I use a rail and stile router set from Rutlands!
 
Router sets are only any good if the doors are less than 22mm thick

Take a length of wood say 150x40x40, cut a 20x20* rebate along one edge and then cut a mitre on the end with your chop saw. This can now "hook" over the style or rail and be used to guide your chisel to pare the mitre after removing most with a fine saw.

*depending on width of moulding

Jason
 
Use a rail and stile bit, I have one together with a raised panel bit that I bought at last years Ally Pally show, from Freud, I had no immediate use for it, but, once I got it it I made an immense number of doors.
Derek.
 
I've never come across a router set that will cope with doors apart from kitchen doors.
For mitreing the moulding, in the past I have used a similar setup to what Jason describes, but I made it up out of 3 sections and then mitred so I had a guide both sides of the piece I was cutting, nice wide chisel and away you go.
Since then though a 4 head tenoner has proved to be invaluable :wink:
 
MooreToolsPlease":2fc8g3fq said:
I've never come across a router set that will cope with doors apart from kitchen doors.
For mitreing the moulding, in the past I have used a similar setup to what Jason describes, but I made it up out of 3 sections and then mitred so I had a guide both sides of the piece I was cutting, nice wide chisel and away you go.
Since then though a 4 head tenoner has proved to be invaluable :wink:

Depends what you are trying to do, the tornado ones I bought are for a minimum of 20mm, although I have managed to use them on 18mm although there isn't much meat at the rear of the rebate. If you have very thick wood, you can always flip the rails and styles to give a matching moulding on both side, you just need to fiddle to make sure the rebate lines up properly.
 
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