Does anyone know where I can get a saw like this?

[Reggie]

Hi all, wandering around the internetz, I found this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0vFtKiKngM

Does anyone have any idea where I might be able to get a saw like the one he's using to cut the shoulders at about 1min 35seconds?

 

[nev]

have a google for veneer saw.

 

[Reggie]

Thanks nev, it's not quite that saw but it's close than I got

 

[nev]

possibly a French veneer saw?

 

[Reggie]

That's better, ha, I shouldn't have trusted axminster Looking at their veneer saw on axminster, the handle is removable but doesn't seem to cut on the pull stroke according to the single review, although I wonder if that depends on whether you're left or right handed?

The french ones look much more suitable.

 

[marcros]

What about a normal flush cut saw and epoxy inch it to a block of wood?

 

[Reggie]

what's the kerf like on a normal flush cut saw?

 

[Reggie]

Admin, could you move this post into buying advice, I posted it in here by mistake

I'm at the start of my woodworking journey, I did some very basic stuff at school 30 years ago, didn't learn much, don't remember any of it, so I'm really looking for the right tools for the right job. I quite like the idea of Japanese saws and the control they give cutting on the pull stroke, with the blade always being taught as it's cutting, along with that 'veneer' saw in the video, it all seems very logical.

 

[marcros]

I don't know. It doesn't really matter as long as you can allow for it somewhere- marking out or on the jig. Axi do a veritas that cuts on one side only, so you could cut into the waste.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-veri ... rod788339/

If you thought about the jig and made it so that there was room for the saw to avoid hitting the handle and yet still guide it, you could do it without modification. It would be quite slow at that tooth count though.

 

[Reggie]

I had to think for a minute there, 'jig, what jig?' then I realised you meant the board with the hole in it, you're dead right of course about the kerf not being an issue, my mistake

The handle seems to be in the way on all the western style flush cutting blades, then again if the blade is long enough or the jig short enough, then it should be doable, although I'm still inclined towards the japanese dozuki with a longer blade on it.

My only saws apart from power tools are a junior hacksaw, a coping saw and a ridiculous jcb 'tenon' saw that feels pretty unwieldy and has kerf you could drive a bus through, it doesn't feel like it can do a decent accurate cut.

By the way, what do you mean by 'cuts on one side only'?

edit: ahh, cuts on one side only probably means that it's set on one side only, which could be another issue for me as I'm left handed :/

 

[nanscombe]

Would a Stanley FatMax Reversible Flush Cut Saw (£10.67) be of any use to you?

A spring-loaded pin allows the blade to be reversed to cut from left or right position. The steel back prevents bending for strong, true, straight cuts. A wide blade enables precise cutting such as dovetails, small joints and cut-offs.

Or a Gentleman's saw (£10.70)

Victor Gent's saws are manufactured from top quality materials and with the same care as the rest of the Victor range. The 44mm deep blade is sufficient to tackle small jointing jobs as well as cutting frames and beadings, the fine kerf and 19tpi blade gives an excellent finish to the work. The blade tang fits into a rosewood coloured handle.

 

[Reggie]

I don't think they're quite what I'm looking for, thanks for all the suggestions though guys To get over the fact that the blades have a spine on them, I'd need a longer blade, which pretty much negates the finer control I was looking for.

 

[bugbear]

Hi all, wandering around the internetz, I found this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0vFtKiKngM

Does anyone have any idea where I might be able to get a saw like the one he's using to cut the shoulders at about 1min 35seconds?

If you like that idea, you might consider using a mitre saw with an end stop.

BugBear

 

[Reggie]

I have a compound mitre saw power tool, is that the same thing? probably not, no end stop on it.

 

[nanscombe]

I don't think they're quite what I'm looking for, thanks for all the suggestions though guys To get over the fact that the blades have a spine on them, I'd need a longer blade, which pretty much negates the finer control I was looking for.

I guess it would depend on how deep you plan on cutting with them.

There is flexible version of the Stanley, with teeth on both sides and no spine, but I find the blade to be a little too flexible at times. :lol:

 

[Reggie]

I think I need to see some of these saws more than anything, lots of options to think about

 

[Leif]

It is probably a Japanese back saw. Similar here:

http://www2.westfalia.net/shops/tools/h ... tAoduxsAxQ

 

[AndyT]

It's not a new idea. Salaman's dictionary lists an armchair maker's saw which uses the same method and I can see how it would have made sense if the tenon you were cutting was on top of a component which was curved and carved.
The illustration shows how you could easily make one; there is no need for a flush cutting saw.

Incidentally, sawing the tenon cheeks, he references each cut from a different face so he will only get an accurate sized tenon if all the stock is exactly to size.

 

[Reggie]

ahh, I see, so they're offsetting the base of the clamp to accommodate for the blade not being flush?

 

[AndyT]

ahh, I see, so they're offsetting the base of the clamp to accommodate for the blade not being flush?

Yes and so you could use any push or pull saw you like to make one.
Most tenons don't need shoulders all the way round though.