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do you sand after you scrape?

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mickthetree

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I'm getting fantastic results with my scraper since learing a new sharpening technique. Got some Maple with a nice curl in it and it is looking great. But when I shine a light over it, it looks like very very fine scratches in the surface.

I guess I could finish off with some very fine abrasive.

Is this necessary? If so what grit do you use?

Cheers
 

woodbloke

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Yep...in my experience scraping will produce a good, blemish free surface (no torn grain f'rinstance) but not one that's suitable for a polish. Depending on the timber, a light pass over with 240grit followed by 320 will bring the surface to one where a finish can be applied - Rob
 

Teckel

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woodbloke":12sgtas9 said:
Yep...in my experience scraping will produce a good, blemish free surface (no torn grain f'rinstance) but not one that's suitable for a polish. Depending on the timber, a light pass over with 240grit followed by 320 will bring the surface to one where a finish can be applied - Rob
+1
 

mickthetree

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Thanks chaps!

This is on some maple. It certainly doesnt look like ti would take much so the scraping will certainly save me time.

Just need to get some of those thumb protectors now. Those things get hot!!
 

Pete Maddex

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Hi, Mick

Tell me about it! burnt my thumb scraping varnish off cupboard doors, and still go lots to do.

No sanding for me just Danish oil with a Scotch Brite pad if it feels rough after the first coat.

Pete
 

RogerP

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mickthetree":1fmqez2d said:
...... Just need to get some of those thumb protectors now. Those things get hot!!
One of these will help
:)
Stanley No 80 cabinet scraper
 

woodbloke

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mickthetree":1g8w7155 said:
Just need to get some of those thumb protectors now. Those things get hot!!
If you need thumb protectors, you may be scraping too hard. I use a card scraper, or LN scraper plane on areas where a smoother hasn't quite sorted it out, but it's usually only a very light pass. Maple (if the grain isn't curly) shouldn't need much scraping anyway - Rob
 

mickthetree

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You are probably right Rob, but its such fun making those curly shavings!! :) I can't stop.

Do you know, I do have a stanley 80 somewhere. I'll dig that out and try that as well.

Going to try some 320 grit and see what difference it makes.

Got some offcuts I can try these different options on to see which is best.

Many thanks!
 

jimi43

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The scratches are almost certainly caused by imperfections in the burr caused by not polishing the edge enough before turning the burr.

If I were aiming for a totally mirror finish with no blemishes (like on a guitar)...I usually hit it with a couple of coats of cellulose sanding sealer and then refine that finish without breaking through to the wood. I use Abranet sheets and work up to 400G then start on the MicroMesh from 1500M to 12000M and then Tru-Oil and start again! :mrgreen:

For a matt or silk finish (but still flat) I then use very fine wire wool carefully and irregularly to take off the gloss to whatever finish you want.

Jim
 

mickthetree

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Wow! that does sound like a lot of work Jimi! I'm sure it produces a fantastic finish though.

I had good success with shellac sanding sealer and chestnut wax 22 on this drawer unit:



If I recall I dont think I noticed any small scratches once the sanding sealer had been applied and knocked back. And my scraper sharpening technique has imporved no end since then.

As you say though Jimi, I may not be getting quite the very finest burr I need. Definately improving though!

I did have some success burnishing with a handful of shavings I had produced from the maple earlier.

Its all good fun experimenting and trying to refine the techniques.
 

jimi43

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That's lovely Mick...superb design in the contrasting wood and exposed dovetails.

Yes...that process was for guitars which have a MUCH smaller acreage than a piece of furniture. The sanding sealers differ greatly and the cellulose one gives the best finish in my humble opinion. You have to leave it to harden for a few days to get the very best results.

Jim
 

andersonec

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mickthetree":357qezwg said:
I'm getting fantastic results with my scraper since learing a new sharpening technique. Got some Maple with a nice curl in it and it is looking great. But when I shine a light over it, it looks like very very fine scratches in the surface.

I guess I could finish off with some very fine abrasive.

Is this necessary? If so what grit do you use?

Cheers
If you are getting fine scratches then your edges are not honed, try sharpening your scraper like this http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/ ... illiam-ng/ no need to sand when sharpened this way


Andy
 

woodbloke

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andersonec":1cm69ffl said:
If you are getting fine scratches then your edges are not honed, try sharpening your scraper like this http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/ ... illiam-ng/ no need to sand when sharpened this way
Andy
Easy enough to do it that way and in fact that's the way that's the way I sharpen a card scraper...but at the beginning of the clip he uses 280g sandpaper after the card scraper and then says it's ready for a finish...which is wot I said in the first place! - Rob
 

Mike Wingate

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After using scrapers, I finish off scraping with Stanley knife blades (bought by the 100) and on detailed work, single edged razor blades. Mostly on guitars and ukuleles, but applicable to other pieces too.
 

togster

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As others have said, it depends on what kind of finish you want/use but some evening of the surface texture i generally required.

On the 'hot thumbs' problem, in addition to the Stanley 80, L-N and Veritas offer full size bench scrapers. But a cheaper alternative for using your existing scraper blades is the Veritas Scraper Holder. The screw in the middle allows you to bow the blade.

No commercial connection to me! Just thought it might help. I have one and I find it useful for big, heavy scraping jobs. But for finesse there's nothing to beat the bare fingers approach - in moderation!
 

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mickthetree

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I thought my scraper was sharp until I saw how good the shavings were coming off his scraper in that video!!

I do get shavings, but I also get dusty stuff with it. He makes it look so easy.
 

woodbloke

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mickthetree":331tv7j7 said:
I thought my scraper was sharp until I saw how good the shavings were coming off his scraper in that video!!

I do get shavings, but I also get dusty stuff with it. He makes it look so easy.
Sharpening a card scraper is just about the easiest thing in woodworking to do :? ...do exactly what the bloke in that clip did. It's a very, very straight forward process - Rob
 

mickthetree

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Sorry Rob, I have been failing to get the perfect results this bloke gets. I've obviously been doing something wrong, but looking forward to trying out his methods.

Cheers :)
 

Paul Chapman

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mickthetree":1q0nuqea said:
looking forward to trying out his methods.
One of the best bits of advice in that video was to not use a file to get rid of the old edge when preparing the scraper. Most pieces I've read about preparing scraper blades advise you to use a file to get rid of the old hook but this has always seemed a bit daft to me as it will put scratches into the edge, which then have to be removed. I've never used a file on mine.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
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