Do I have a problem with my Triton

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Sorry to have raised some hackles, but I can only comment on what I read.

Streetpips, I'm sure you can raise the router when inverted, using the r-a-p, so can I, but when demonstrating this feature at shows, I'll always get someone to try to raise it inverted with the spring in, then notice the big difference with it out - the way it's supposed to be used. On seeing your comment, I thought I'd test my impression against yours. It was a fairly simple test, but it showed that removing the spring reduces the effort by a factor of three. I try not to be pedantic, but I couldn't have been aware that you were using past experience of another router as a comparison, could I? It may be, even now, that I've got hold of the wrong end again.

Christoph, nowhere in your postings does it say that your router was new (yours too, Gary M, omitted this fact as far as I can see). That will, perhaps, explain my amazed reaction to your not having the router to bits. :)

I still don't understand your statement about "side play" though, relating to the bushings and it would greatly assist if you'd expand a bit on that aspect - either here or via PM.

All my previous dealings and experience of this type of problem have involved machines that have done quite a bit of service and needed maintenance, but I mustn't make such assumptions in the future, especially if this is happening to new machines. Certainly nothing has come down from HQ about a rogue batch, similar problems, etc. or I would have posted the info immediately.

Christoph, you asked: 'Do you know anything about this I found on amazon "and the fine adjustment screw is an excellent idea. I've seen some complaints about backlash but, taking the backlash out is not an issue if one knows what one is doing."' This refers to the process I mentioned in my earliest response, being "kind" to the mechanism by raising above the required height with the r-a-p, then lowering to the actual required height with the fine adjuster.

Those that have bumped into me at Kempton Park and elsewhere know that, although I'm fairly blunt, I'll try anything to help. Looks like I need to try harder.

Ray.
 
Argee, Thanks for the reply, and I understand the point that you are making but believe me, I find the raising (inverted) action a delight with or without the spring, a delight compared to the more conventional ELU based plunge router.....Which includes most routers on the market
I had used the ELU in the table for about ten years and in the end resorted to the Trend fine adjuster with the "flick lever lock" permanently disengaged with a clamp because trying to flick the lever and raise/ lower the machine was only accurate to the nearest inch or so ! So as you can imagine the Triton, either with or without the springs is far more civilized and controllable.
I am very happy with the TRA001 and so have treated it ( and myself) to a very nice Freud SH5 adjustable fence and a 1/4" thick aircraft grade aluminium insert, from USA and Canada respectively...........
 
trrep04.jpg


Ray mine was also brand new and happened on the second day of use. When I took mine apart, I found that the hard plastic cog wheel was binding against the brass bushing. No matter what I did I couldn't cure it. Your picture refreshed my memory as to what my exact problem was. Hope this helps.

Neil
 
neilc":18jofpqi said:
When I took mine apart, I found that the hard plastic cog wheel was binding against the brass bushing. No matter what I did I couldn't cure it. Your picture refreshed my memory as to what my exact problem was. Hope this helps.
Thanks, Neil - that sort of feedback is very useful and will be passed on Tuesday morning.

Christoph, it looks like North America is getting the push-button plunge lock and a modified worm gear. Weirdly, Australia isn't!

I'm now looking at retro-fitting the new worm, what the part availability is likely to be, plus the cost. If there's a bulk discount option, I'll check back for any interest.

Ray.
 
christoph clark":34rkr6pn said:
neilc":34rkr6pn said:
I found that the hard plastic cog wheel was binding against the brass bushing
I can see what you meen. There was mention here of filing 1mm off the bushung to stop it catching... Agree were you aware of this ?
Yes, I was - it's my dismantling page they refer to in the thread. I wouldn't ever advise anyone to file anything off a bush, that's unacceptable and warranty-voiding in my view.

Canada is where the upgraded models are, I believe, Hence North America, not USA. You're probably seeing the old pictures, they're not as good as they might be in updating their sites. I think Amazon is using an old image too.

Ray.
 
Update,
I gave everything a quick clean and a spray of wd 40 and the router is rising and falling like a dream.
Thanks for your help Argee.
 
The last time I looked at cheap routers (all I could afford to even look at at the time) - NOT Tritons, etc - a similar sort of jamming applied to ALL of them.

With the cheap routers in a "bit down position" you cannot usually plunge by pushing only on the inactive side. They all appear to have one slide which is sprung. If you push only that side they move OK. If you apply any vertical force to the unsprung side then the lateral play - which always seems enormous in cheap (eg. own brand) routers - makes something jam the mechanism. They will not move at all. It must be cheap bearings or the slides as they usually have simple external adjusters - nothing like the fancy gears shown above. I've tried this in all the big sheds, etc - which is why I'm still saving my pennies for a proper router, saw, etc.

Although its not directly applicable to the triton it does show that only a little side force or twist can jam this sort of mechanism. At that point the sacrificial design of the gearing would work against you. It would tear & deteriorate making the adjustment progressively worse.

Hope I've not wasted anyone's time. :oops:
 
Mu current Bosch router has also a travel problem. Unfortunately giving it a spray didn't fix it (instead of WD40 use first an cleaner like denatured alcohol or naphtha (or a mixture of them) and then apply a dry lubricant).

Also the problem is not due to binding between the post with the spring and the other non active post. The shaft locking mechanism which is spring loaded presses the upper part of the post (which is hollow for the micro adjuster mechanism) into an oval shape over time.

The router has about come unfit to be used as a pluge router because the force needed to plunge down has because that much you cannot control the plunge speed any more safely.

My advise look for a router that has not an hollow shaft of at least a thick walled shaft.
 
A good way to check how well built your router is, is to try to plunge it using only one handle (try each handle, too!). Any play in the bushes will show up, as the one handed plunge will cause the router to rack on the columns and stiffen up or jam making the plunge difficult. At the time I was looking for a big router, only the DW625 passed this test in the shop. Some current routers appear to have only one bronze bush so I would imagine they would soon develop a rough plunge action.

The Ryobi 1/2" (600E?) in my router table fails this test, but without its 2 springs, winds up and down with the fine adjuster OK.
 
Hello all, this is my first post here but I have been reading threads for a while. Like other I have a new TRB001 from B&Q and have only just gotten round to fitting it in my table. It's a Rutland top on a "Norm" style cupboard base and I bought a Tilgear aluminium base for the router as I thought the existing plastic one might not be strong enough.

I too have had the sticking problem and duly took the machine apart this afternoon - that to Ray G for his excellent instructions - and (against Ray's advice) I did file the bush down slightly to improve the clearance with the plastic gearwheel.
Though this helped to reduce the sticking for a while, eventually I realised that the problem was deeper and that plate distortion had to be the cause somehow.
2 hours of patient investigation and I have found the cause - ME - and fixed it.

The cause is one of the 4 holes that I drilled in the aluminium plate is out of line with its counterpart in the base of the router. 3 lined up but 1 was about 0.5 mm out and when I tightened the last screw, R&F always started to jam.
The simple solution was to enlarge the countersunk hole a little with my Dremel so that all 4 holes can now exactly line up with the router base. It no longer matters which order I tighten the countersunk screws, Rise & Fall works as designed.
Regards to all,
Dave Ward
 

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