DIY questions..

[KevB]

Hi guys

One or two of you may have known that my dad was helping me build my shed (projects forum). We unfortunately lost him suddenly on Tuesday due to a massive bleed on the brain. I'm devastated but just trying to get on with things as best I can.

Which leads me to this thread. What it is.. my mam needs a lot of work done in her house and garden. My dad would have usually done all or most of this work himself, using his own building knowledge in various areas. This obviously can't happen now and i'm going to try and step up to the plate, doing as much as I can to keep costs down.

I was hoping that you guys may be able to help me out with any questions I may have. You may have done a similar job before etc.

One of the first jobs being patio doors to the back of the sitting room. Myself and my dad had this planned for a while. These doors would give access to a separate play area in the garden (away from my mams dog) for the grandchildren to play. We planned on taking the window out which is 1160mm wide, then opening the wall up beneath. My dad always said the doors would have to fit the gap, as he didn't want the hassle of replacing the lintel.

I've seen a few patio doors on gumtree, though they are slightly wider than the opening. Does anyone have any idea how much 'play' I may have on this lintel? How far do they usually go beyond the opening? I can easily take the window out myself, as well as cutting the bricks out, though it's little things like this that i'm unsure about..which are also vital to the job in hand.

Any ideas guys?

 

[KevB]

http://www.screwfix.com/p/ellbee-upvc-french-door-1190-x-2090mm/54938

For example, these doors would be good. Though they are 30mm wider than the opening.

Say I took the window out, does the frame sit tight up against the brick work? I'm thinking there may be a little play there? If not, i could just cut a little away couldn't i? (depending on the lintel of course).

Those doors say 1190 wide. Is this the exact gap i need? Or is there something that goes around the frame and between the brick work? I assume that whatever gap, however small that is left will be filled with expanding foam and the frame itself is bolted directly to the brickwork...?

 

[Woodchips2]

Hi Kev
That is awful news for you and your family and my heartfelt condolences.

Regarding the lintel you would normally expect it to extend 150mm each side of the opening for this width but I would check this by chipping away the plaster because sometimes there is no lintel or just a bearing angle.

If you've got sufficient bearing then consider cutting away the inner skin (bolster or angle grinder) so the door frame sits in a reveal behind the outer skin. It would be easier if you had a door undersize so you could fit a sub-frame.

Good luck with this and very sorry to hear your news.

Regards Keith

 

[adidat]

sorry to hear about your dad, lost mine a week before my 21st coming up to 5 years!

if you don't want to expand the gap you could have one made up, with small doors. Or have a large single door with a fixed window on the other side. losing 20mm on each side would probably be fine (but worth checking) , and easy work with a 9" grinder, but they make hideous amounts of dust!

adidat

 

[RobinBHM]

Im very sorry to hear your loss. Good on you for wanting to tackle some of the jobs your father had planned to do.

The screwfix doors will be 1190 x 2090, which are designed for a 1200 x 2100 structural opening.

Yes you can probably get away with a few mms under 150mm bearing without any problem. A photo of the window might be handy -to see the amount of brickwork and roof supported above and condition of vrickwork.

To fit the doors, you need 5mm slack all round. If you are fitting cavity closures then make it 1200 opening at the smallest point. A cavity tray is a good way to prevent damp getting to internal reveal. Otherwise use some dpc as a vertical dpc.

To fit frame, put in place, set back from outside brivkwork by about 25mm (or to cover old mastic of window). Ideally use a few plastic wedge packers. When wedged in place hang doors, move frame around until doors sit nice (even gap across head and both doors touching nice and flat where they meet.

Screw on with concrete screws or frame fixings. Make sure gaps are wedged tight where the screws go, so you dont bow the frame.

If you are fitting upvc doors check the glass is heel and toed. When fitted, adjust hinges so height position is correct and in out if 3d hinges. Close slave door, adjust shoot bolts so door pressurizes draught seal. Then set multipoint lock on master door to do same.

 

[n0legs]

My condolences for your loss. Very very sad news.

 

[Adam9453]

Very sorry for your loss, the advice above is comprehensive so there's little to add.
I would always chip away the plaster to expose the lintel so you can see what is actually there.
You'd be amazed how many cowboys are out there that don't bother fitting lintels, very dangerous!

 

[Paul200]

Just seen this Kev. So sorry to hear about your Dad. It's good to keep busy mate. My condolences to you and your family.

Paul

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

My condolences to you and your family Kev. I also agree you're doing the right thing which is not only to keep busy but to help Mum out as her sense of loss will be hard to bear. Good for you, a very decent response to an awful situation.

 

[MARK.B.]

So sorry for your loss .

 

[blackrodd]

Sorry to hear of you're Dad's sudden passing, looks like He'll be sorely missed.
Rodders

 

[Graham Orm]

http://www.screwfix.com/p/ellbee-upvc-french-door-1190-x-2090mm/54938

For example, these doors would be good. Though they are 30mm wider than the opening.

Say I took the window out, does the frame sit tight up against the brick work? I'm thinking there may be a little play there? If not, i could just cut a little away couldn't i? (depending on the lintel of course).

Those doors say 1190 wide. Is this the exact gap i need? Or is there something that goes around the frame and between the brick work? I assume that whatever gap, however small that is left will be filled with expanding foam and the frame itself is bolted directly to the brickwork...?

Very sorry for your loss. Hope you and yours are coping.

Why don't you get them priced up from a local fabricator? You might be surprised at the cost for made to measure.

 

[dickm]

Sorry to hear of your loss, mate. Hard for those left behind, but probably the best thing for your Dad. Mother-in-law had a nice day out with my wife a few decades back, then dropped dead in front of her when she got home. Wife has always been upset by it, but I reckon for M-in-L it was a wonderful way to go.

 

[KevB]

Thanks guys, your kind words mean a lot.

I worked on the shed floor a little today. Felt so alone and indecisive without my dad, I know he will be proud though, when I finish our little project.

I've read through all of the advice and i'll take it all on board. As you suggest Graham, I will look into the cost of made to measure and see what's what. It will probably be a while yet, so I have plenty of time to look around.

No doubt i'll be back with some more questions about various other things

 

[petermillard]

Very sorry to hear about your Dad; I lost my Mum last week after a brief period of illness - she was 92 so hardly unexpected, but still a bit of a choker when it happens. Had her funeral last Friday, and afterwards had one of the best family parties I can remember; hope you managed to give your Dad a good send-off.

Good to keep busy at times like this - your workshop may feel a bit empty right now, but you'll fill it, no worries.

All best, Peter