Dimensions for router table build

[skronk]

Hi,

Router top will be 600 long x 425 wide. Totally aluminium. It is in two pieces....600 x 350 and 600 x 75. Both pieces to be attached to thick sub base with gap between the 2 pieces allowing me to route a slot in wood making T-slot.

Looking for dimension of where to drill hole for router bit and T-slot in relation to sides of top.......hope you know what I mean !!!! :shock:

 

[woodpig]

Yes, I'd like to know as well as I'll be building one soon.

Pics would be nice as well!

 

[Myfordman]

Take your fence design and move the back of it to the back of the table. The front edge of the fence will give the centre line on the Y axis.

The fence needs to be able to move forward from that position by the radius of the largest cutter you will ever need or be able to use with the router.

I can think of no reason why the router should not be central on the X axis.

 

[Mike.S]

Central makes sense (subject to fence design) on the X axis as this gives you maximum support on infeed and outfeed. So, if I understand correctly, you'll have a 600mm wide (X=axis) table and it'll be around 445mm deep (front to back), allowing say 20mm for the T-Track you're proposing to insert/make bewteen the two Alu pieces. So, Router bit will be 300mm from one side.

As your T-Track position is fixed - due to dimensions of Alu plates - I'd consider what you're going to use on the T-Track e.g. featherboards, jigs etc and set the Router hole an appropriate distance back from that. My T-Track is about 150mm from centre of the Router hole - so if that suited you it would be 245mm back from front edge (75mm plate + 20mm T-Track + 150mm).

HTH.

 

[Mrwilson]

It would probably help if you had the feather boards you intend using before cutting slots, just to make sure everything is going to work fine. I've got a cast top Fox router table which is a brilliant bit of kit but with the feather boards I have there's a dead spot where they won't come far enough forward to grip wood of certain dimensions or if moved to the alternative slot, they're too far forward. Does that make sense?

Shug

 

[skronk]

Thanks to all. Wee problem. Just found out my aluminium supplier is unable to cut hole on top....

 

[rafezetter]

Cutting a hole in aluminium is very simple - just treat it like a hardwood and go slowly; - you can use a router bit on a slower setting with a template, a wood hole cutter - a drill and jigsaw away from the mark then file - drill "stitch holes" (consecutive almost joining holes), break out the middle then file or glue some 80grit to a tube like object and sand.

Don't forget though that in reality you'll need a larger hole so that you can use things like panel bits (it's better to build it in now than to be stuck without it later), but also a way to fit smaller holes - this is why most bought router plates have several different inserts. Plenty of advice online on how to do this without having to resort to buying an expensive plate.

Mike.S's advice about distance to router hole is very good, but as your table is narrow (comparatively) I would put the hole exactly between the face of the fence when it's set to the rear of the table as far as it will safely go, and the fixed position mitre slot - this will give you the largest amount of range for your table for doing things like rebate slots, cutting free with templates plus start pin and shaping narrower stock while still being able to use a featherboard.

If you don't intend to do rebate slots (or use a rebate slot jig) and only use it for edges and panel bits then set the hole closer to the rear of the table so that you have more support for wider boards (or intend down the line to make an extra support to make the wide deeper when needed).

 

[woodpig]

Thanks from me as well. I have a piece of 16.5mm thick laboratory bench top about 720 x 450. I'll need to make a fence so I guess I should allow about 150mm for this and make the hole for the router accordingly. I'm therefore guessing about 200mm from the short edge?

 

[Billy Flitch]

If you do decide to cut the hole with a jig saw It would pay you to get a aluminum cutting blade (bosh T 227) if you use a normal metal cutting blade the aluminum becomes soft and fills the gullets up on the blade and it stops cutting.
When this happens it looks like the teeth have been wore of the blade but they are still there just the gullets are full.

 

[rafezetter]

Thanks from me as well. I have a piece of 16.5mm thick laboratory bench top about 720 x 450. I'll need to make a fence so I guess I should allow about 150mm for this and make the hole for the router accordingly. I'm therefore guessing about 200mm from the short edge?

With 150mm for the fence that leaves 300mm working space - if you put the hole at 200mm you'll have 100mm depth for doing any drawer / panel rebates which I would image in most cases would be enough. If you wanted a mitre slot I would put it at 50mm from short edge to give you space for work and use a featherboard, worst case if you need space for wider stock you could always keep short featherboards / featherstrip and just clamp them to the edge of the table.

 

[woodpig]

Thanks for that, makes sense.