Vic Perrin
Established Member
Hi, Any suggestions on the best ones to buy.
Diamond Sharpening cards/plates
- Thread starter Vic Perrin
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Silverbirch
Established Member
If you are thinking of the small, handheld diamond files and similar, for touching up edges etc, I`ve been very happy with my EZE-Laps.
I also have a set of unknown brand , which look similar, but have not stood up to use.
Ian
I also have a set of unknown brand , which look similar, but have not stood up to use.
Ian
Dalboy
Established Member
marcros":15xhpba8 said:
+1 for the trend card I use mine for turning tools as well as keeping a keen edge on my router bits
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
I suspect "you get what you pay for" has an element of truth about it.
gregmcateer
Established Member
phil.p":2a5z3ome said:
Think that's probably true - I got some cheapies from Toolstation which seem OK, but not sure they'll last too long.
BTW, can a TCT tool be sharpened with a diamond stone, or is it
a) too hard
b) if too hard, what do you use instead?
TIA
Greg
Dalboy
Established Member
Greg as I said I use mine on my router bits which are TCT and have no problem getting a good edge on them. Read trends info http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/produ..._credit_card_double_sided_diamond_stone_.html Watch the first video.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
gregmcateer
Established Member
Thanks Dalboy - that helps alot
Greg
Greg
I have a diamond stone I paid £40 for many years ago, it still cuts like new and has a fine grit (about 600 I think) I use a water stone at 1200 for finishing, I also have some cheap diamond "flats" they are about 2.25 wide and 6 inches long, I got 4 for about a tenner I think. They were supposed to be a descending series of grits, but in fact all are the same, about 120 grit. BUT! They are really good for fast removal of material!
Diamond will cut anything, it is much harder than any metal alloy we are likely to come across, on the scale of hardness used for minerals in geology (MOH's scale which runs as follows, 1. Talc 2. Gypsum 3. Calcite 4. Fluorite. 5 Apatite. 6 Orthoclase 7. Quartz 8. Topaz 9. Corundum 10. Diamond)
Corundum (Rubies and Sapphires) is actually 9 times harder than Talc, but Diamond is about 100X harder than corundum. That should give you some idea of just how hard Diamond is.
Diamond will cut anything, it is much harder than any metal alloy we are likely to come across, on the scale of hardness used for minerals in geology (MOH's scale which runs as follows, 1. Talc 2. Gypsum 3. Calcite 4. Fluorite. 5 Apatite. 6 Orthoclase 7. Quartz 8. Topaz 9. Corundum 10. Diamond)
Corundum (Rubies and Sapphires) is actually 9 times harder than Talc, but Diamond is about 100X harder than corundum. That should give you some idea of just how hard Diamond is.
gregmcateer
Established Member
KimG
Wow! That's some info - and interesting, when you consider how hard a Ruby is.
I think one of my very early tools must have been coated with either talc, or gypsum....
Wow! That's some info - and interesting, when you consider how hard a Ruby is.
I think one of my very early tools must have been coated with either talc, or gypsum....
Paul Hannaby
Established Member
I remember reading somewhere that the diamonds on the diamond slips/stones will gradually "dissolve" into the steel they are used to sharpen because the iron reacts with the carbon in the diamonds. I have noticed my diamond slips gradually getting smoother and I assume that's why. If it was just due to the diamond particles falling out, the remaining particles would remain equally sharp / coarse but they don't.
chipmunk
Established Member
+1 for Paul's comments about the diamonds being absorbed into the steel but it happens only at relatively high temperatures - not normally possible with a hand held hone except when used under power.
This is principally why cubic boron nitride (CBN) gets used instead of diamond for industrial grinding and shaping of HSS.
I think that the difference between cheap and expensive diamond hones is the strength of the bonding of the diamond to the substrate and with cheap hones the diamonds just simply wear off in-use.
But having said that, if they're cheap enough then it isn't really anything to worry about.
I use the Axminster cheapies like this...
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-handled-diamond-hones-prod460561/
which last quite a while before they are all "extra-extra-fine" and then I chuck 'em :wink:
It's also useful to have a diamond slipstone for the inside of gouge flutes and I use one of these...
http://www.military1st.co.uk/os-eze-so-15-eze-lap-diamond-sharpeners-model-s.html
...which is small enough to fit inside even the smallest gouge flute.
HTH
Jon
This is principally why cubic boron nitride (CBN) gets used instead of diamond for industrial grinding and shaping of HSS.
I think that the difference between cheap and expensive diamond hones is the strength of the bonding of the diamond to the substrate and with cheap hones the diamonds just simply wear off in-use.
But having said that, if they're cheap enough then it isn't really anything to worry about.
I use the Axminster cheapies like this...
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-handled-diamond-hones-prod460561/
which last quite a while before they are all "extra-extra-fine" and then I chuck 'em :wink:
It's also useful to have a diamond slipstone for the inside of gouge flutes and I use one of these...
http://www.military1st.co.uk/os-eze-so-15-eze-lap-diamond-sharpeners-model-s.html
...which is small enough to fit inside even the smallest gouge flute.
HTH
Jon
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Lidl do those small round ones once in a while - they aren't everlasting, but they're good for £2.
gary knights
Established Member
the cheap ones can be ok , I got three in a set for 10 pounds 7 inches long and 2 wide. been fine. been poking for more but can't find them
