Dewalt DW625 fine height adjuster in a router table?

[Dissolve]

Hello,

Considering mounting my dw625 in a diy router table and after looking at both the really available and custom made fine height adjusters I'm considering my options for mounting it in a table.

How exactly does the fine height adjuster work? From the pictures I'm assuming your remove the quick release nut from the threaded bar and simply screw the fine height adjuster onto it?

But in the pictures there appears to be a nut and washer supplied with it, would someone mind explaining to me what function the nut has with the height adjuster?

I only require a simple one fence table so I'm thinking about making the top out of some think mdf and recessing the router base slightly to provide extra depth of cut.. is that a bad idea for the strength of the table?

I've read things about removing the springs when mounting a plunge router on a table, how is this done and why does it help matters?

Thanks guys!

 

[RogerS]

This is my fine height adjuster for my DW625.

Works very well....and more importantly very cheap

 

[mseries]

I use a Elu MOF96E in my router table and use it's fine height adjuster to control the height. I have not removed the springs. I have no exeprience of the DeWalt machine so can't comment on it I am afraid

Meanwhile here is a picture of my homemade table


28092012 by mseriesmseries, on Flickr

 

[Dissolve]

Thanks for the info!

Just wondered if anyone could explain how to properly use the fine height adjuster and why theres a nut supplied with it?

 

[RogerS]

The nut is a fast release...you squeeze it and it disengages from the thread so you can move it up and down quickly.

 

[johngraves]

I use the same height adjuster as RogerS in my table and it works brilliantly in conjunction with an accurate height gauge!

 

[Eric The Viking]

The only difference with the Trend T11 (made for the job) is that the end of the same shaft has a hexagon in the base, and a corresponding hole so you can get at it from above the table.

I'd be surprised if you couldn't use the T11 shaft instead of the DW one, giving you a "hybrid" router but without the wide base of the T11. Have a look at the exploded parts drawings on-line at one of the spares suppliers.

E.

 

[RogerS]

In response to a request from the OP, here are a couple of photos. I stick a bit of rubber on top of the jack.

 

[Steve Maskery]

If you do use a car jack like Roger's (and it does work very well) just ensure that you are not blocking any air vents. The turbine inside the router srws air through to keep it cool. If you block these vents you may find yourself saving on the height adjust but having to buy a new router sooner than you expected to.

 

[Peter Sefton]

Is this the one you mean?

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/AT/product/FHA_003/

I have one on my DW625 in our shop made table; I don’t remember it coming with any extra nut and washer. If you are going to fit it remove the end nut from the router bar and the quick release nut, they have a tendency to drop the router down when you are adjusting it and it can lead to a good sized blood blister and plaster if it catches you unaware.
I did have a car jack under mine and it worked a treat until a student forgot to release the locking nuts/lever on the router and crushed the housing.
MDF will sag under its own weight, I use an old Formica kitchen worktop - lasts for years but do construct the table to offer support to this it will also succumb to gravity over time as well.
Cheers Peter

 

[Dissolve]

Is this the one you mean?

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/AT/product/FHA_003/

I have one on my DW625 in our shop made table; I don’t remember it coming with any extra nut and washer. If you are going to fit it remove the end nut from the router bar and the quick release nut, they have a tendency to drop the router down when you are adjusting it and it can lead to a good sized blood blister and plaster if it catches you unaware.
I did have a car jack under mine and it worked a treat until a student forgot to release the locking nuts/lever on the router and crushed the housing.
MDF will sag under its own weight, I use an old Formica kitchen worktop - lasts for years but do construct the table to offer support to this it will also succumb to gravity over time as well.
Cheers Peter

Hello,

Yes that's the fine height adjuster. I removed the top nut and quick release nut and screwed on my fine height adjuster. But it was supplied with a nut (the size of the quick release nut) and a large washer.. no idea why then! :lol:

That's good advice, thank you! I've seen many DIY router tables and I like the car jack idea very much! definitely something to consider. Any advice on ideas for hooking up a good extraction system for a DIY table? and also as for fences.. Any good links/pictures or ideas for reference? I don't mind spending a bit of money on getting some tracks/fixtures to build a decent table!

Thanks

 

[mseries]

Any advice on ideas for hooking up a good extraction system for a DIY table? and also as for fences.. Any good links/pictures or ideas for reference? I don't mind spending a bit of money on getting some tracks/fixtures to build a decent table!

Thanks

On my picture above you can see the extraction tube behind the fence. The fence has an aperture in the middle, the sliding faces make it larger or smaller. The aperture has a small wedge shaped box behind it, I call it the doghouse, and the tube sticks in a hole in the doghouse so it sucks the chippings away from the cutter as it cuts. The table has a replaceable insert and I select on with a hole only just large enough for the cutter.

 

[Dissolve]

Thanks for the ideas!

Currently contemplating buying this for the table top:
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/workshop-&-po ... uter-table

And builsing some sort of cabinet made to measure for my workshop. Has some good reviews and seems like buying a suitable top, table insert and making fence tracks etc would set me back over £100 anyways!