DeWalt 743 Flip-Over Accessories

[rifty01]

I have a DeWalt 743 flip-over saw that I have been primarily using for ripping and chopping a complete re-flooring of the house and a shed build.

Those jobs being pretty much over, I have started using the table saw mode for some panel cutting and forming tenons, but I am disappointed with the accuracy and stability of the fencing arrangements/set-up for this saw.

The saw table is a pressed metal sheet, not cast, and thus the fences clamp and ride on the edge lips, rather than in channels.

Does anyone know of any accessories that improve the accuracy of the fence/mitre gauge on this saw, or am I going to have to try to make something myself?

Any advice welcome.

Paul.

 

[Sailor]

Good evening,

I have the same saw but an Elu version and came across the same problems!
There are numerous 'proper' spares/accessories:http://www.mtmc.co.uk/product.asp?c...artPosition=1&strSearchCriteria=any&PT_ID=all but as they cost an arm and a leg, decided to make my own table.
I used some thickwalled tubing that fit exactly into the machined holes in the structural sides between the legs. I then built these up and fitted a flush extension table which has only two legs and can fit either on the left or right side. I 'split' the table and used some good quality piano hinge to allow the table to fold down when not in use. Just had to check the hinge position to account for the splay in the legs.
I was lucky and had a spare good quaility fence to hand, but I would guess it would be straightforward to make a new one, or buy one like the Axminster one.

Hope that gives you some ideas and welcome,

Colin

 

[rifty01]

Thanks for that URL address, Colin.

Do you run the new fence channel in the extension then? What material did you use for the flatbed of the extension?

Regards,
Paul

 

[Sailor]

Evening,
The fence I had, came with it's own channel/rail, something similar to the Kreg bandsaw fence. I cut it at a very shallow angle, with the cut lining up with the hinge point so it can run the full length of the new and old table with the 'bit' on the old table, screwed to a strip on the existing lip. The only problem being when I use it on the 'left-hand' side, which is very rarely, it's fitted to the front of the table instead of the rear.
The actual table is made up from a section of laminated kitchen counter-top which is balanced on the underside with a piece of old laminate I had laying about.
The two legs are also hinged to the free end of the top, so they can fold up and clip to the underside of the top. That means it only takes slackening off the two set-screws that clamp the pipes into the original table and the whole thing slides off and can be hung up on the workshop wall if I want to take the saw out to a job.
The only 'gotcha', was the strip I had to fit to the pressed metal table. I made it a substantial section, but only projected slightly below the existing table so it can still be turned over to use the chop saw.


HTH,

Colin

ps keep an eye on e-Bay, as I've seen the 'official' extras for the saw come up occasionally.

regards