Danish oil

[Lumberman]

I have used Danish oil on some of my small projects, but find that after 2 or three coats, the surface remains tacky permanately. I have noticed this particularly on Walnut and iroko.

I have made sure the surface is clean and free from any grease ae,c.t, somebody suggested ragging it on but this does not give the finish I require.

Can anyone help please.

Harry.

 

[katellwood]

I use danish a great deal especially on Iroko, My method is to flood the surface for approx 10 - 20 mins then rag off so the surface feels dry.

I have found that if you leave it without ragging off it it will go tacky and will not dry.

If you are after a gloss/shiny finish I think teak oil would suit you better but remember oil is not normally a surface finish akin to varnishes et al

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I often apply several coats of danish oil by brush, it gives a fairly high gloss finish which on ash and elm can take anything up to two months to cure. The finish isn't particularly hard so i only use it where it will receive light handling. If the finish remains soft on iroko and walnut for longer than this then perhaps their natural oils are inhibitting the curing process.

Regards Mick

 

[RogerS]

Harry...you have succinctly stated why I hate Danish Oil. There are many more and better modern products. Rustin's Plastic Coating is well worth considering. Don't be put off by the name!

 

[Woodfinish Man]

I just have to comment...every Danish Oil is different. There''s no standard formulation and the variances are significant between all the brands.

More than happy to send out a free 100ml for anyone to test please DM me.

All the best

Ian

 

[CHJ]

One problem I found with 'Danish Oil' is that it is a generic term for a blend of oils such as Tung, Linseed and varnish and can vary considerably from one brand to another in application performance.

Personally for anything to be handled within a reasonable time of coating I prefer to use a Hard Wax Oil.

 

[AndyT]

To avoid the problem of tackiness after several coats, do this:

1 Make absolutely sure that the oil is properly mixed up. If it's been standing a long time, you can get a semi-solid lump at the bottom of the tin. Warming it by standing the tin in hot water can help.
2 Don't start if it's a cold damp day. Wait for a better one.
3 Brush or wipe on. Wait 10-30 minutes. WIPE OFF ALL OVER with rags or strong paper towels. You want to leave the surface wet but not drippy.
4 Leave plenty of time (24 hours min) before recoating.
5 If the finish is glossier than you want, knock it back with your preferred very fine abrasive.

The reason for the tackiness is that you ended up with a dried surface layer, preventing the underneath layer from curing. To make sure each layer is thin enough to cure fully, you must have thin layers that have been allowed to cure fully.

 

[marcus]

Agree with Andy, there has probably been too much build up.

Just out of interest, what brand are you using?

 

[clivethecarpenter]

I have had really good results over the years with Liberon finishing oil
3 coats normally does the trick, Just buff in-between coats with a clean rag on a slow running random orbit sander

 

[Muswell]

I like Liberon too, and Chestnut. I only leave the oil for a few minutes before drying off thoroughly with a cloth and then waiti a day, building-up slowly to the finish I want. Considering the time it takes to make something why save a few minutes at this stage when quality of finish is one of the things people notice first?

 

[101wheeler]

Long time user of Rustins Danish oil on worktops etc but I have recently moved on to OSMO and also the new Festool finishes (clever applicator). In comparison I now dislike the smell of Rustins Danish - seems to linger for some time.

Also, one opened, seems to me that it goes off quite quickly - lots of solids at the bottom of the can. Don't know why but always seems to be the case...

 

[AnselmFraser]

Danish oil does tend to remain tacky and so do many other special oils because the "drying agents " used in them quickly detereate , we always buy a fresh tin for each job and do as the what other people have been saying . Any old oil carefully saved from a previous job does not set and then ruins your work .

 

[Adderley]

Hi l have been using oil for quite a while and the best advice l can give is put it on in thin coats and allow to dry if its in a cold damp place it will tale long to be absorbed and for the first coat l would use wet & dry very fine this will allow the oil to soak in and also be a good filler coat

regards
allan
Stoke on Trent

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Like has already been said.

Make sure its not gone off and started thickening in the can.

Wipe off thoroughly and wait (i think at least 24 hour)

Try applying just enough to cover the surface, like with most finishes more thin coats is better than a fewer thick ones.


Applying in a warm environment helps, thinning might help counter the thickening/slow curing of a cold environment.

 

[beganasatree]

Woodfinish Man,
PM sent.

Peter.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

He hasn't been here for nearly a year - good luck with one.

 

[beganasatree]

I did not notice the date of the post