Cutting sheet materials

[AES]

Good day all, my first post for 2014.

I’d like some advice please on the following 2 items which popped up in an Amazon “mail shot” E-mail sent to me today.

I’m very much a hobbyist and do not have (nor plan to have) a table saw – no space. I do find myself cutting sheet materials quite a lot, and do not have a track saw but do have a “normal” hand-held powered circular saw. A track saw is (I think) the obvious way for me to go, but wonder if either/both the following would be a good, cost-effective alternative. If bought together both work out at about 100 quid, a LOT less than the cheapest track saw I’ve seen here (Switzerland).

Both these items (below) have pages and pages of reviews which I’ve scanned through and the general consensus for both seems to be favourable but I do wonder if either of them are actually much better than measuring/marking carefully then clamping a straight batten onto the sheet to be cut. That’s what I do at the moment.

Any comments gratefully received, thanks for looking.

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Kreg KMA2675 Kreg Rip-Cut

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007K5 ... em_1p_4_lm

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Emerson Tool Co. C50 50-Inch All-In-One Contractor Straight Edge

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TX ... em_1p_5_lm

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Krgds
AES

 

[MMUK]

I'd just stick with your tried and tested method. It works so what's the point in spending the money?

 

[carlb40]

Why not make your own track for your saw? Should take an hour max.

 

[Graham Orm]

Looks tidy but it's not very long (where have I heard that before?). Also you're dependant on a straight edge to work from. It's very easy to make your own track saw type guide. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYcdHlwKsOg

 

[AES]

Thanks for the prompt replies so far gents.

@MMUK: 2 answers - first because it's fiddly and prone to errors (my fault I know); and second, OK, I admit it, it's "nice" to have something to make a particular job quicker/easier/better - O.K. I also admit to a certain amount of "tool-itis"!

The problem is to find out what's just a useless gimmick and what's a genuine help (BEFORE you buy), hence my post.

@carlb40: Because I don't know how - I've been thinking about it on and off for ages but (probably because I'm over-complicating things in my head) it seems quite a task to do properly/accurately.

@grayorm: Thanks for the link, I'll take a look - maybe it's the answer to the "reason" given above.

Again thanks all - one can always rely on professional experience plus common sense on this Forum.

AES

 

[MMUK]

I don't see why making a track for your own saw should be too difficult as long as the materials you use are straight. I hate to say it but I would imagine that in this case MDF would suit the bill (I abhor MDF with a passion bordering on obsession!).

 

[caroleb]

I made a rail for my Festool (didn't fancy paying £150 for one!) out of some 6mm ply and a piece of plastic channel from the local Wickes (DIY store) which I fitted to the ply, inverted then glued over a small strip of pine to facilitate a smooth action.
Works as well as my 1400 festool one. And its 2.4m long!

Cost £5 - 10
Time 1hr.

I guess for a 'normal' circ saw I could have moved the plastic channel left a bit to run down the edge of the circular saws plate. As long as I kept some sideways pressure on it it would work fine. The plastic is smoother running than anything else I could think of.

HTH

Caz

PS - Happy new year - I'm off to clear up my daughters party. Great!

 

[vally bar]

2 pieces of 6mm ply one glued over the other to form a rebate base say 150 to 200 top say 50 mm to look a bit like a casing, Run the saw along the rebate cutting off the excess on the base perfect track to suite that saw.

 

[AES]

Thanks for all the helpful replies - between you all you've saved me some money (but added to my "To Do list!).

Grayorm: thanks for that link - looks like even I could do that (not for the 1st time in my life I've been thinking in a much too complicated way - e.g. "How to "mill" an accurate groove on the baseplate of my saw without a milling machine?". That link shows a much easier way (as of course you knew).

Ditto thanks to: caroleb (good luck with clearing up after the party btw); vally bar; and carlb40.

@MMUK: I'm not a great lover of MDF either, for me I think it'll be melamine coated ply plus caroleb's plastic extrusion or perhaps a beech strip suitably waxed after fitting to the ply base).

Note to self: MUST learn to think simpler!!!

Thanks all, Happy New Year and "lang mae yer lum reik" (which I understand from an ex R-R Glasgow friend of mine means "long may your chimney smoke").

Krgds
AES

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi AES
I would encourage you to make your own track and use the setting gauge from WE1. It's the first jig on the film. It's fast, accurate and repeatable. The one on the DVD is suitable for any width which is greater than your track, but I have since made a similar one which works in the same way, but will cut any width down to zero. I don't have a film of it but I do have a PDF and some photos and a drawing I'll dig them out and send them over.
I used a home-made track for years before I got my ali ones. The end result is just as good, it's just not as pretty or slick and does require clamping.
Best for 2014
Steve

 

[Woodchips2]

I've used a homemade track for years. The strip you run the saw against needs to be straight otherwise the saw cut will not be straight #-o . You could consider using a length of the upright for Spur shelving system http://www.tradesystems.co.uk/acatalog/ ... tAodiVQAUQ (or other shelving systems) as the guide instead of wood.

I find the Spur upright is also good for a straight base to do wall-tiling.

Regards Keith

ps I don't have shares in Spur and other shelving systems are available :roll:

 

[AES]

Thanks Steve, noted. I'd welcome a copy of your PDF - no rush (still trying to sort a router table so I can finish the pedal car)! Quick? Me?? NO chance!

Thanks for the link Eriba. Would you believe we have exactly the same stuff here (Switzerland) in our DIY Emporia, just like the stuff you linked to but under a different name. Why didn't I even think of that (I think I've even got the odd length or two laying around at home)?

Once again all the best to all for 2014.

Krgds
AES

 

[Roughcut]

I just use a diy made "sawboard" with a circular saw such as the one in Grayorm's link.
Actually I made two (a longer one just over 8ft long and a shorter one just over 4ft long) for length and width board cutting.
I took the opportunity of cutting one side of the board with the circular saw and then the opposing side with my Makita Router with a 12mm cutter.
By doing this I now have a sawboard that can be used for sizing boards with the circular saw and also for squaring board edges with the router should I ever need to.

 

[Woodchips2]

I just use a diy made "sawboard" with a circular saw such as the one in Grayorm's link.
Actually I made two (a longer one just over 8ft long and a shorter one just over 4ft long) for length and width board cutting.
I took the opportunity of cutting one side of the board with the circular saw and then the opposing side with my Makita Router with a 12mm cutter.
By doing this I now have a sawboard that can be used for sizing boards with the circular saw and also for squaring board edges with the router should I ever need to.

Two for the price of one, great idea!
Regards Keith

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Thanks for all the helpful replies - between you all you've saved me some money (but added to my "To Do list!).
Grayorm: thanks for that link - looks like even I could do that (not for the 1st time in my life I've been thinking in a much too complicated way - e.g. "How to "mill" an accurate groove on the baseplate of my saw without a milling machine?". That link shows a much easier way (as of course you knew).

AES

It's not a bad idea to try the saw board as a first step as it's not much money. However you should also try a good track saw Maffel or Festool. Then decide if the saw board is good enough.

I used a saw board then got a Festool TS55 and there is no comparasion. You will note that in the video he says he uses the saw board for rough cuts then a table saw for the finished sizes. I however use the TS55 for the 1st, which is the final, cut (as long as I get the size correct )

Also the good track saws leave 2 good edges, and that is something other saws don't do.

 

[Jacob]

Saw-board can be very accurate and precise. http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Sawboard
It will cut exactly as straight as the batten on top and exactly to the marks if you line up the cut edge. The big advantage over a plain straight edge is that you line it up to the marks on the workpiece instead of having to measure back from them. It's a fraction of the cost (nothing, if made from offcuts) of seriously expensive Festool stuff but can be just as accurate.

 

[AES]

Thanks for all the helpful later comments folks.

Re Festool: As said in my OP I do have a case of "tool-itis" (not too severe so far though) and would obviously LOVE a Festool. But as a semi-retired bloke doing this stuff purely as a hobby for my own satisfaction I just cannot justify Festool prices in my own mind (nor to SMBO come to that!). Apart from anything else, such tools should happily out-last me and I have no one to pass them on to unfortunately.

Thanks again all.

Krgds
AES

 

[KevM]

A bit late to the party, but have you seen the Pro-Grip stuff from fine-tools: http://www.fine-tools.com/klemm.htm

There's maybe some cheaper options out there but this looks like quite an easy way to do it for ~€50. I can't vouch for it personally, just looking for something else and remembered this thread. Noting you're in Basel have you got any contacts over the border to avoid duties?

 

[AES]

@KevM:

Thanks for the info, looks interesting.

Re contacts, no problem, for small amounts like that I wouldn't pay anything anyway. The only problem is that this supplier is in Berlin which is a goodly drive from Basel, too far for a trip there just for buying tools to make economic sense anyway. But paying shipment shouldn't be a problem. I'll check that, or wait until the next time my (Swiss) wife wants to visit the German part of her family and make a long weekend of it.

Meantime I'll try the Steve Maskery jig/the Jacob sawboard idea and see how I get on.

Thanks for the tip, much appreciated.

Krgds
AES

 

[MMUK]

Apart from anything else, such tools should happily out-last me and I have no one to pass them on to unfortunately.

I'll send you my address Andy and I'll happily pay the courier :wink: :lol: