Cutting Gauge Recommendation

[JonnyW]

Can anyone recommend a good cutting gauge?

I love the Lie Nielsen gauge http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/product-p/al-1.htm with the wide head and the adjustable steel pin, but can't seem to find a seller in the UK that stocks just the gauge.

I can't be bothered to make my own, so any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Jonny

 

[Jacob]

They are simple devices and the basic trad beech pattern is good enough for all purposes
Cheap here:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/joseph-marpl ... wgodoI8MnA

or on ebay even cheaper

 

[AndyT]

Just buy an old one, or modify a marking gauge if you can only find marking gauges.

That LN design is daft - first they introduce a problem by mounting the knife diagonally then they 'solve' it by adding a metal pin! It just makes an over-complex expensive tool.

The normal way to use a cutting gauge, or a marking gauge, is to rest one arris (long corner) of the stock against the surface of the work, press the stock against the edge, then roll the stock in your hand until the blade/point touches the surface and pull or push along to make the line you need.

The three-point contact is stable and controllable, so you can progressively deepen the cut as needed. Wood rubbing on wood does not damage or mark the surface.

 

[JonnyW]

Guys thank you for that. One is maybe blinkered by the LN badge Andy!

Food for thought.

thanks again.

Jonny

 

[Jacob]

Another good reason for the cheap option is that if you use them a lot it's handy to have several, which you can leave at various settings during the process of the job. And a handful of pin gauges too.

 

[JonnyW]

That's an excellent point Jacob.

Can I ask, if you guys are marking with the grain, do you use a pin gauge or do you use the cutting gauge?

I remember reading an article a while back - the author stating that he'd never used a pin gauge in years, just used a bevelled cutter for everything.

Jonny

 

[ED65]

Gauges are one of the easiest tools to make for yourself if you're interested Jonny, and there are numerous designs to pick from with every level of complexity. The most basic type of all might take only a couple of minutes to knock up if you have the right materials to hand.

You use a dowel for the beam and a smaller dowel for the lock so the fence only needs two holes drilled in it, rather than having to chisel one or two mortises for a square beam and the conventional wedge, and no need to try to figure out how you'd replicate any sort of screw locking.

The cutter can be done numerous ways too, but perhaps the simplest is to sharpen the edge of a suitable washer and screw it to the end of the beam, like this.

 

[ED65]

Can I ask, if you guys are marking with the grain, do you use a pin gauge or do you use the cutting gauge?

The conventional wisdom is you use marking gauges with the grain, cutting gauges across the grain. iIt's not quite as simple as that though since the type of cutter makes a difference, as well as whether it's installed parallel to the fence or at a slight angle. At an angle can work better, despite being rarely done.

 

[JonnyW]

Nice one thanks for that!

Jonny

 

[Jacob]

That's an excellent point Jacob.

Can I ask, if you guys are marking with the grain, do you use a pin gauge or do you use the cutting gauge?

I remember reading an article a while back - the author stating that he'd never used a pin gauge in years, just used a bevelled cutter for everything.

Jonny

A pin gauge does for everything including across the grain but a cut line is sometimes useful - particularly for DT shoulders. A pin gauge is for marking, a knife gauge is for cutting. A cut line will often be too fine to be useful as a mark i.e. something to work up to.

 

[JonnyW]

Thanks Jacob - appreciated

Jonny

 

[frankederveen]

I love the Lie Nielsen gauge http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/product-p/al-1.htm with the wide head and the adjustable steel pin, but can't seem to find a seller in the UK that stocks just the gauge.

To be fair to Lie-Nielsen, they do market that one for slicing veneer strips for inlay work; not as a generic marking gauge.

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/tools-for-inlay/tools-for-inlay-latta-slicing-gauge-?node=4180

Frank

 

[JonnyW]

Thanks Frank, I did see that, as the gauge was being sold as part of a veneer cutting set.

Jonny

 

[AndyT]

I love the Lie Nielsen gauge http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/product-p/al-1.htm with the wide head and the adjustable steel pin, but can't seem to find a seller in the UK that stocks just the gauge.

To be fair to Lie-Nielsen, they do market that one for slicing veneer strips for inlay work; not as a generic marking gauge.

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/tools-for-inlay/tools-for-inlay-latta-slicing-gauge-?node=4180

Frank

Ah, thanks, I'd not realised that, having just followed the OP's link. Maybe it all makes sense for veneering - but I do think that for ordinary use there is a good reason to position the pin/knife in the centre of the shaft, not on the corner.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

This thread is hilarious!

First someone asks about the LN cutting gauge. Then all blast it and state that the design is all wrong and buy the cheaper B0ll0cks Design instead. Finally one person pipes up to say that the LN cutting gauge is not for marking but for cutting veneer. Then it a case of "Oh ...", or "I knew that but I thought the B0ll0cks Design was better". :lol: Never Mind The B0ll0cks!

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Jacob]

This thread is hilarious!

First someone asks about the LN cutting gauge. Then all blast it and state that the design is all wrong and buy the cheaper B0llocks Design instead. Finally one person pipes up to say that the LN cutting gauge is not for marking but for cutting veneer. Then it a case of "Oh ...", or "I knew that but I thought the B0llocks Design was better". :lol: Never Mind The B0llocks!

Regards from Perth

Derek

You've missed the point Derek, as usual. :lol:
The cheapo "cutting gauge" is for cutting too (there's a clue in the name) and not for marking as such. It'll work just as well as the over designed over priced LN job.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/joseph-marpl ... wgodoI8MnA

 

[Peter Sefton]

There is a common problem with these cutting gauges, the blades wouldn't cut butter and they usually move within the wedge.

Cheers Peter

 

[swagman]

There is a common problem with these cutting gauges, the blades wouldn't cut butter and they usually move within the wedge.

Cheers Peter

Hi Peter. Its good to hear from someone who understands his woodwork.

Have you read this *****; http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodw ... andplaning

Stewie;

 

[Jacob]

There is a common problem with these cutting gauges, the blades wouldn't cut butter and they usually move within the wedge.

Cheers Peter

Hi Peter. Its good to hear from someone who understands his woodwork.

.....
Stewie;

You have to sharpen them and get used to using them. I realise that would put a lot of amateurs right off!
Shouldn't do though - this ain't rocket science it's very basic simple stuff.
These basic marking/cutting gauges are brilliant in use and exceptional value for money - think of the wood you could buy instead of LN flash tat!

 

[Jacob]

.....
Have you read this dung; http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodw ... andplaning

Stewie;

Perfectly good basic advice. Bin there dunnit. Stuff moves; best to get it finished/fitted/built as quickly as possible.