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Crimp SWA?

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Joe Shmoe

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My garage consumer unit has a crimp on the end of the pre-fitted N.

Do I need to crimp the ends of my 10mm SWA before inserting into terminals, or is it acceptable to just insert them as they are?

I also need to run an earth from the steel wires of the SWA. This will need to be crimped in order to attach to the SWA gland washer. Is it acceptable to use a small length of the cable from inside the SWA for this purpose?
 

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MikeG.

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Joe, if you are in England or Wales this work needs to be certified by an electrician. If not, you won't be in compliance with the regulations and, amongst other issues, this may make it difficult to sell your house or get insurance. I suggest, therefore, that you leave this work to your electrician.
 

Dibs-h

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Joe Shmoe":3egbd2qs said:
My garage consumer unit has a crimp on the end of the pre-fitted N.

Do I need to crimp the ends of my 10mm SWA before inserting into terminals, or is it acceptable to just insert them as they are?
I'd grip the copper with a pair of pliers and give it a good twist - that way when the terminal screw bears down on the bare copper - less chance of the wires parting. If that makes sense.

Joe Shmoe":3egbd2qs said:
I also need to run an earth from the steel wires of the SWA. This will need to be crimped in order to attach to the SWA gland washer. Is it acceptable to use a small length of the cable from inside the SWA for this purpose?
Maybe something like in the picture below,



HIH

Dibs

p.s. I'm not an electrician.
 

Sideways

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All the answers to your questions are contained inside the 450+ pages of BS7671, the IET Wiring Regulations (Blue Book), which cost about £80 and which for all practicable purposes MUST be complied with.
The internet isn't a substitute to owning and understanding the book, which is regularly updated - the most recent changes came into force at the start of this year and some potentially apply to your job.
The installation of even one new circuit never mind a consumer unit is notifiable work under the Building regs.
It's cheaper to pay a sparky to do it than do it yourself and pay building control to inspect and approve it. They'll just contract the inspection and test out to a local sparky anyway and you'll be charged more for the priviledge - being told what you overlooked and then potentially have to pay for modifications and a retest....
Or just trust the internet and hope that you got it right as you've given your insurance company a "get out of paying free" card...
It's everything you haven't even heard of that bites you in the *ss.
 

Fitzroy

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I’m pretty hands on with most things and sail on the far side of what many would say is ok for diy, even I am planning on getting a sparky in to connect the consumer unit to the new Swa to my shed and test everything.

Fitz.
 

Woody2Shoes

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It is possible that - depending on the earthing arrangements at the other end - connecting the steel shielding to earth at the garage end could be the wrong thing to to. Only someone who knows what they're doing - and has the proper equipment to measure things like Ze - External Earth Fault Loop Impedance - can ensure that protective devices like RCDs can and will work correctly. Sometimes, based on calculation and/or measurement, a separate earth rod is required instead.

This is just one - of many already mentioned - reason why it's best left to someone with the right gear and paperwork.

Cheers, W2S
 
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