As the cabint will be in a corner, run the kickboard right across. The endgrain won't show as will be abutting the walls at each end. Yes? Join the board to the sides of the base assembly with screws in screw-pockets and add a reinforcing bracket, inside the angle, as in a drop-seat dining chair.
I use a pc router 7539. I use a raised pannel bit. this is being done free hand with the bering. I have also use a pc router table. I was surprize that the table cant take a rasied pannel bit. What to do?
Why can you not use the raised pannel bit in the table :?:
Large bits of this type should normaly be used in a tabe as they are more likely to run away if used free hand.
If you have just bought the table how about taking it back :!:
Hi Dave, glad you can make it at last - welcome to the forums
Anyway wood1000 What PC router table have you got? Just I have one and a CMT rasied panel bit fits fine, to be honest I thought PC only sold one table :?
I wouldn't recommend using a rasied panel bit freehand :shock: as Dave says these are big cutters and designed for a router table.
If you go here you can see apicture of my router table - is it the same as yours?
If you've got some sort of press to hold the veneer whilst the glue dries (bag press, platern press.....) then I would use an aliphatic or urea forlmaldyhide resin (titebond or cascamite), s PVAs tend to let the joints of the veneer creep apart.
If you haven't got ang form of press, then I would use contact adhesive.
At least you will leave the workshop with a smile on your face if you use enough :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: