Coping Saw Blades

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keithkarl2007

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ireland
Anyone know where I can get slim coping saw blades? I am about to practice some hand-cut dovetails and the blade in my coping saw is too wide to turn efficiently.
 
You may find it easier to use either a piercing/jeweller's saw or fret saw if kerf width is a problem/you prefer to follow a tighter radius.
 
Faced with the same problem years ago, I removed each waste piece with two cuts, the first 'diagonally' from one corner of the waste piece aiming for the opposite corner close to, but not crossing, the gauge line. The second cut from the end of the first cut straight across, taking out the triangular bit left by the first cut. The second cut can be as near the gauge line as your blade will allow you to start - about 1/16" with my blades, which is just enough to clean up nicely with chisels.

I know it's two cuts rather than one, but it does allow you to do the job with the kit already to hand, and it's not as if they're big cuts. For real speed, if you've got a shed-load to do, I think Gaz's suggestion of a jeweller's saw would be the way to go.
 
GazPal":3fd0xl7l said:
You may find it easier to use either a piercing/jeweller's saw or fret saw if kerf width is a problem/you prefer to follow a tighter radius.

This is the method I use, particularly on fine dovetails where I have cut them with a japanes saw as the kerf of the cut is far too narrow for a standard coping saw blade but a fret blade in a jewellers saw fits the bill perfectly
 
Also I find that passing the blade through a candle so it picks up a layer of lubricating wax help to achieve a much tighter radius.
 
When turning tight corners I make tiny strokes with the saw making virtually no progress with the cut, and letting the side of the kerf make enough room for the saw to turn. I do a lot of skirting boards at work and it produces perfect results first time every time using this method. Very satisfying. :D
 
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