Compass planes- errr, help

[whoops!]

So now I have some compound angle shapes to make and the only tool for the job for the finishing that I can see is a compass plane, only thing is I have never used one and know sweet fanny adams about them, i.e, cutting angles (do they change with the different amount of flex in the sole? and therefore what angle should I hone the blade at?) :?:

And does anyone have any recommendations for a make and type. I work mostly in Oak, and occasional other exotics, and hope to get a fair amount of use out of it, so quality first I suppose.

I have seen the Anant ones in the rutlands catalogue but cant make up my mind on the quality of them. I am expecting to go for an old Record, but if I'm missing a trick, please tell me. Thanks guys,

Decklan

 

[toolsntat]

Old record or stanley with center adjuster and keeping the blade sharpened as standard plane works well for me..

Not used the 113 model yet (middle ones)
But the left and right ones are great users

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

now I have some compound angle shapes to make

Hi Decklan

I have the Record #020, which is a fine compass plane. If you are looking for one, then this is a good one to look out for.

Compass planes function in exactly the same way as a standard bench plane, but the central screw curves the sole in-or-out. You still work flat to the surface.

Having said all this, I am not sure whether you actually want or need a compass plane. They are for curves, not angles. If you want angles, then a backsaw followed by a block plane or shooting board may be what you need.

An alternative to a compass plane is ye olde spokeshave.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[PAC1]

Decklan

I have an old stanley I bought second hand on ebay. I have used i on oak and american cherry and was happy woth the results. The technique I used was to keep the blade sharp, the radius slightly tighter (for concave work) than the result you want and adjust it for the last few cuts.

There is as usual the stanley v Record debate to be had. I preferred the handle on the stanley, but if you have large hands you may prefer the Record no handle approach.

 

[Jeff Gorman]

Whoops! wrote:

>I have some compound angle shapes to make and the only tool for the job for the finishing that I can see is a compass plane, .................................. cutting angles (do they change with the different amount of flex in the sole? and therefore what angle should I hone the blade at?)<

Theorizing as I sit here ..............

I think that the actual cutting angle needs to be seen as the angle the blade makes with a tangent to the arc you are working. As the convexity of the curve increases, the cutting angle will increase. The reduced cutting angle we get on concave curves might be responsible for the skitter we all-too-easily get.

The clearance angle will increase as the curve becomes more convex.

For the sake of a lasting edge, hone the blade at the usual 30deg. I think there could be an argument for a more acute angle if the plane is working a short radius curve, but this might only come into play if the radius is less than the plane is intended for.

Now, have I got it right?

I have an ancient Stanley and find that the greatest problem is the likelihood of skitter. For me, getting it to cut is a matter of almost simultaneously playing with both the set and the curve adjustment knob. It's rather satisfying when it does work nicely, that is until you change the curve and have to re-adjust!

Incidentally, I once checked the curve of the sole at various settings and found that the arcs are not circular and the title 'compass plane' tends to suggest.

Jeff Gorman

 

[whoops!]

Thanks guys for the info, and yes Derek you are right , I meant to say curves and not angles.

I will keep to the aforementioned 30degrees. Good advice I'm sure.

The record sounds like the one for me if the test is down to handsize. I struggle like mad with txting on modern mobile phones, my thumb more than covers half the keypad!!! I feel like an Elephant trying to do origami. I'm sure most guys suffer the same problem. I've even had to go back to using a 90's mobile phone-more brick like, more practical!!! :lol: :lol:

...so the Record sounds like it has my name on it...
and if anyone has one for sale...

Decklan

 

[Mr Ed]

Nothing of value to add here, so I thought I'd post a picture of my No.020 for visual inspiration ;

I would say that this is not a plane you will be using everyday; I bet I use mine once a year if that. I inherited this plane and so keep it alive partly for that reason, I'm not sure I'd go out and buy one otherwise.

For internal curves I almost always use my Veritas round bottom spokeshave and for external curves a carefully handled LN LA block.

Just my 2 cents.

Cheers, Ed.

 

[whoops!]

but a compass plane makes so much more sense....doesn't it?? :?

Decklan

 

[Mr Ed]

More sense in what way?

Although on the face of it a compass plane might appear a predictable and straightforward way of working with curves I find it less inuitive than a spokeshave. You pick up a spokeshave and it works straight away (a good quality one does anyway) whereas a compass plane requires an amount of fiddling to get it set to suit the circumstance. Both get to the same place in the end though...

Or did you mean something else?

Ed

 

[seanybaby]

whereas a compass plane requires an amount of fiddling to get it set to suit the circumstance
Ed

Yes but you only use it once a year!

 

[Mr Ed]

Well thats true!

 

[whoops!]

I suppose I meant that with a plane there will be less deviation from the arc of the curve,whereas with a spokeshave there is more room to go wrong as the cut of the blade is not dictated to by the arc of the sole....perhaps. :? :?

I think that's what I mean...perhaps,

Decklan.