Cloth Buffing wheels and Compounds

[Mike Gibson]

CHJ,

I have never used the Chestnut brand and l do not think it is available here in the States as l said l use the Renaissance Wax which says on the can Dries hard instantly, buff gently. I apply and buff with a cloth and then buff with the final buffing wheel. If as you say Chestnut brand has a higher melting point and you have a finish applied (lacquer/poly/etc) you are in danger of melting the finish as well and it is no fun sanding the piece back to bare wood when that happens. Michael.

 

[CHJ]

Microcrystalline waxes come as far as I know in two basic types.
Melting points are in the order of 60 -80 deg C and 80-90 deg C respectively.
I presume it is the lower temp laminating waxes that are the basis of polishing waxes such as Renaissance and the numerous branded non trade named versions available.

The version I use blends well with friction mops without any deterioration of sealing substrates I use, all the items shown in my bits and pieces link are so finished and have been for about 3 years.

 

[Terry Smart]

Just updating our Facebook page (go on, have a look!) and checked in on this thread which I'm been watching with interest. I haven't joined in before as I haven't had anything to add and I didn't want to be accused of promoting our product.
However, I'd just like to clear up an apparent misunderstanding.

Our Microcrystalline Wax does indeed have a high melting point; this helps make it more resistant to finger marking etc but is an irrelevance to buffing. The wax doesn't need to melt to be buffed (indeed, that's why we don't recommend WoodWax 22 for use on the buffing system, it'd melt and smear all over the place) so there's no danger of melting another finish underneath the wax. I'd have thought the likelihood of doing so to be pretty remote, I can't think that the buffing system would generate enough heat to melt any of our products to be honest.

 

[Mike Gibson]

Terry, thank you for your input, when l buff Microcrystalline wax with a wheel l do it very gently as it does not take much to bring up a shine. To help Vic a bit more on buffing if he uses lacquer or similar finish and unless Chestnut Finishes are different you have to wait until it cures and that is usually a week at the least, even then if you buff too fast or too aggressively it will burn or melt. l find it easier to buff on a drill press where the wheel is horizontal and l can also sit down. l am glad my turning has gone in a different direction and l do not have to mess around with lacquer anymore. l still use the buffing system when l need a piece to be highly sanded, l use it for this purpose and get the best finish possible.

CHJs link on the second post are good points to follow.

l am sure you will very happy using the buffing system. Let us know how you get on and show some pics. Michael.