Cloth Buffing wheels and Compounds

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Vic Perrin

Established Member
Joined
10 Mar 2013
Messages
554
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Location
Rugeley Staffs
Hi,
I have been looking at the various buffing methods for producing a good finish on turned items.
Has anyone out there got some sound advice on where to go with this issue.
 
I have just dipped my toe into buffing and obtained a block of polish, a pad (Glosswax 16 with a G quality loose mop) and mandrel from the polishing shop. I've only tried it so far on one or two items, but it is definitely an improvement on hand finishing.
btw a 250g quarter bar of polish is about 2x2x2.5 in so will probably last me a lifetime.
 
I made a video of using the chestnut system, it is the first vid I made so is not perfect, but gives you an idea of what to expect at least. Video here
 
KimG":2kv9sc3l said:
I made a video of using the chestnut system, it is the first vid I made so is not perfect, but gives you an idea of what to expect at least. Video here

What a brilliant instructional video. If this is your first attempt, carry on and I look forward to viewing future productions.

I had doubts about buffing using the wheel and the various compounds but this video has laid all my queries to rest.

I am certainty going to purchase the Chestnut System.

Many Thanks for your excellent post.

Regards


Vic
 
Vic Perrin":2axv1gmk said:
KimG":2axv1gmk said:
I made a video of using the chestnut system, it is the first vid I made so is not perfect, but gives you an idea of what to expect at least. Video here

What a brilliant instructional video. If this is your first attempt, carry on and I look forward to viewing future productions.

I had doubts about buffing using the wheel and the various compounds but this video has laid all my queries to rest.

I am certainty going to purchase the Chestnut System.

Many Thanks for your excellent post.

Regards


Vic

+1

The video sold it for me as well. Clear, concise, brilliant! =D>

Are you sure a) this is your first vid and b) you are not on commission from Chestnut.

Birthday sorted.

Thanks

Phil
 
Ah Thanks Vic and Phil, glad you liked it and found it useful, in case you might find it interesting I also have one other video which shows the preparation and roughing out of a natural edged bowl in Holly, here is a link
 
I would suggest that you check out the Beall buffing system on You Tube, then call the Polishing Shop and tell him that you want that system and he can supply it all for you.

It's a great way of making wood shiney, which is what customers want regardless of what you may hear.
Regards
Kevin
 
kjmc1957":37r6bjjx said:
I would suggest that you check out the Beall buffing system on You Tube, then call the Polishing Shop and tell him that you want that system and he can supply it all for you.

It's a great way of making wood shiney, which is what customers want regardless of what you may hear.
Regards
Kevin

After KimG's video I was set on the Chestnut system, but after checking the Beall system (thanks Kevin) I settled for that, as they do a 2mt arbour which fits straight into my headstock instead of mounting extended in my chuck. The rest is essentially identical as far as buffs and polishes. I also had a set of bowl buffs added as well to lessen the chance of smashing my bowls against the back wall!! It takes me long enough to turn them, as a novice, without turning them to match wood before taking them indoors.

Tried it out on my February chess pieces and they now have a finish like glass. Will post comparative pics tomorrow.

All in all, really pleased with the system and thanks goes to both for the recommendation.

Phil
 
Hi Kim,
I got the Chesnut Polishing system including the bowl mops. The arbour supplied with the system fits perfectly into my Supernova Chuck so it makes it a quick no messing system to set up.

I polished up a couple of bowls that I had turned a couple of years ago and they have one up absolutely superb.

It was a bit messy initially with bits of cotton flying off the new mops but they soon bedded in.

Once again many thanks for your sound advice.

Regards

Vic
 
Vic, I use the Beall system and like it a lot. One little tip l can give is forget using the wax as it will dull in a short period of time. Instead l use Renaissance (Micro-Crystalline) Wax Polish, expensive but goes a long long way. Like Marmite use sparingly and with a light buff comes up better than wax and will not show finger prints. Michael
 
KimG":2yce886w said:
Nice one Vic! Post up some pics when you get a chance! :)
Love to post a few Kim, I have had a go from the IPad but failed miserably.
I will have to fire the lap top up and try that. I am not that good with the old IT stuff.

:(
 
Mike Gibson":caydspmi said:
Vic, I use the Beall system and like it a lot. One little tip l can give is forget using the wax as it will dull in a short period of time. Instead l use Renaissance (Micro-Crystalline) Wax Polish, expensive but goes a long long way. Like Marmite use sparingly and with a light buff comes up better than wax and will not show finger prints. Michael

Hi Mike, I have bought some Micro-Crystalline Wax but not had a go with that yet. Am I right in saying you apply it sparingly by hand, leave. Few mins to dry and then buff with the final mop

Cheers

Vic
 
Vic Perrin":2xtg3fpu said:
........ Am I right in saying you apply it sparingly by hand, leave. Few mins to dry and then buff with the final mop
....
Butting in on the communication, but yes, like any paste, solvent based wax formula.
Apply thinly, wait until the bulk of the solvents evaporate and then buff with enough friction to melt and blend the wax over the surface.
 
Vic Perrin":sfhia5q3 said:
Mike Gibson":sfhia5q3 said:
Vic, I use the Beall system and like it a lot. One little tip l can give is forget using the wax as it will dull in a short period of time. Instead l use Renaissance (Micro-Crystalline) Wax Polish, expensive but goes a long long way. Like Marmite use sparingly and with a light buff comes up better than wax and will not show finger prints. Michael

Hi Mike, I have bought some Micro-Crystalline Wax but not had a go with that yet. Am I right in saying you apply it sparingly by hand, leave. Few mins to dry and then buff with the final mop

Cheers

Vic
Vic, Micro-Crystalline Wax does not behave like other waxes and will not melt and blend. With the Micro-Crystalline wax you do not wait to buff, it tells you on the can how to apply. Another advantage is it does not show water spots either. Michael
 
Mike Gibson":99tdevvm said:
.....
Vic, Micro-Crystalline Wax does not behave like other waxes and will not melt and blend. With the Micro-Crystalline wax you do not wait to buff, it tells you on the can how to apply. Another advantage is it does not show water spots either. Michael

Well recommended application methods may vary dependant upon brand but the version supplied by Chestnut Finishes, which is the only one I have used has the following recommendations:
Microcrystalline Wax

Microcrystalline Wax knits down to form a very dense coating which makes it very hard wearing and highly water repellent, ideal for situations needing a tough coating that might get wet. These waxes also have a higher melting point than traditional waxes
And
Method of application:
Apply by cloth over sealed timber, allow to dry and buff to a high shine. Can also be used on the Buffing System - apply the wax to the item and buff using Wheel C.

Drying time: About 20 minutes

Personally I find the drying time for solvents to disperse is somewhat shorter at reasonable shop temperatures with the sample of the above product I have and increased friction temperature available with using a buffing wheel gives more consistent results than I can achieve with hand buffing.
 
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