Chisel Sharpening

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sxlalan

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Hi All

What would be the best way to flatten the backs and sharpen a bunch of new chisels? I have red/green DMT, an 800 grit Waterstone and a 6000 grit waterstone at my disposal. The chisels and stones are new and I have no previous tool sharpening experience so sorry for the vagueness of the question!

Cheers

Alan

modedit: moved from 'General Woodworking'

Gill
 
Hi Alan
First step is to make sure the back of the blade is flat-use the coarse diamond stone to start this off. Apply pressure closer to the edge of the blade and keep the chisel flat as you work it on the stone. After a few strokes you will see how flat the back is by the "scratch pattern"-the scratches look dull grey compared to the shiny silver look of polished steel. When happy that the important inch or two nearest the edge is flat you can refine the surface with the finer stones, taking it up through the grits until it has an even polish.
Next the bevel-do you have a honing guide?
If so, set up your chisel in the guide and use the 800 grit w/stone (which you have previously soaked in water) to work the bevel. When you can feel a "wire edge" appear on the back side of the edge you can go up to the 6000 grit. Mist the surface of the 600 with water and hone away (always pulling the blade towards you-the w/stones are soft). When the wire edge disappears the blade should be very, very sharp.
This should at least get you in the ballpark-there are many different methods of sharpening, but I find this one pretty predictable (and it works!!!)
Hope this helps
Philly :D
 
Alan

Alf and Philly are on the ball with their sage advice and I can add nothing.

I post to say that if you find flattening by hand a bind (it is often slow and painful), then I can recommend the Rexon horizontal grinder as a nice tool to remove the tedium from back flattening - several members use them for this very task.
 
Thanks guys. I have a Veritas MKII Honing Guide (also virginal as yet) so will have a go over the weekend!

Thanks for the top advice as always!

Alan
 
Alan
You may find flattening on the red DMT slow - the 800 grit waterstone would be quicker but would require frequent flattening. If you have some glass and some 120 grit sandpaper I would start the backs off on that. Or add a extra coarse DMT stone to your collection - I use this a lot - for flattening waterstones more than anything.
Cheers
Gidon
 
gidon":2gcjfytw said:
Alan
You may find flattening on the red DMT slow - the 800 grit waterstone would be quicker but would require frequent flattening. If you have some glass and some 120 grit sandpaper I would start the backs off on that. Or add a extra coarse DMT stone to your collection - I use this a lot - for flattening waterstones more than anything.
Cheers
Gidon

Red is fine, isn't it? I agree with Gidon, that's going to be extremely slow work. It is tedious enough with an extra-coarse (black) DMT to make me envy Rexon owners.
 
If you're thinking to get something specifically for flattening backs, the coarse diamond paste seems to be more effective than a stone, fwiw. Less capital investment too. It also avoids the rounding effect which abrasive papers often create (well they do for me anyway). I've barely used the Rexon since getting it thinking it'd be the answer; but as with all these water sharpening systems, it's messy, a pain to set up and a hassle keeping the stone flat. :? Now maybe a small milling machine for blade backs would be good... :-k :lol:

Cheers, Alf
 
Well I've been using an offcut of kitchen worktop with reasonable success, but cast iron is supposed to be better I believe.

And is this is a cunning way to get me to write this up in installments, BB...? :wink: :lol:

Cheers, Alf
 
Alf":2gqace0i said:
Well I've been using an offcut of kitchen worktop with reasonable success, but cast iron is supposed to be better I believe.

And is this is a cunning way to get me to write this up in installments, BB...? :wink: :lol:

Cheers, Alf

You might think that. I couldn't possibly comment.

BugBear
 

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