Chestnut Buffing Wheels

[gregmcateer]

I have the system and am very pleased with it.

My query is about saving a bit of time;

At the moment I set up the mandrel on the smallest jaws of my Axi O'Donnell. This is fine if they've been in use to make the item, but tedious if not - So has anyone, (e.g. Chas!!) got a neat system setup to avoid having to unbolt and rebolt jaw sets when ready to polish?

Thanks in advance

Greg

 

[chipmunk]

How about mounting your mops on Morse Taper arbors and removing the chuck completely or holding a MT carrier in your chuck jaws?

I use a pigtail on a MT2 taper for my mops but you could always mount the Chestnut mops on a blank-end arbor drilled and tapped to suit the mops. They're cheap enough to have one per mop...

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Blank-End-Arbors

HTH
Jon

 

[CHJ]

I have the system and am very pleased with it.

My query is about saving a bit of time;

At the moment I set up the mandrel on the smallest jaws of my Axi O'Donnell. This is fine if they've been in use to make the item, but tedious if not - So has anyone, (e.g. Chas!!) got a neat system setup to avoid having to unbolt and rebolt jaw sets when ready to polish?

Thanks in advance

Greg

Greg, what Axi jaws won't grip the Mandrel, I use mine with both 80 and 100mm dovetail accessory jaws.

Some chucks do cause a problem if the accessory jaws protrude beyond the carrier jaws or the carrier jaws are not as true as they might be on the inner face, if these are your problems then there are solutions.

 

[Grahamshed]

I have been wondering the same thing. The set comes with a smaller arbor which fits in a Jacobs chuck. I have one of these on a morse taper for drilling on the lathe anyway so I now use the buffing wheels on that.
The American Beale system also has a morse taper arbor for their wheels and I will be at 'The Toolpost' ( who sell both systems ) tomorrow to see if they also fit The Chestnut wheels.I think this would be the simplest solution.

 

[CHJ]

The set comes with a smaller arbor which fits in a Jacobs chuck. I have one of these on a morse taper for drilling on the lathe anyway so I now use the buffing wheels on that.
....

I hope your drill taper is fixed with a drawbar, if not then you risk the assembly coming loose if using it with buffing wheels, and rotating at 1000+RPM could be a serious hazard, drilling ensures the taper is kept in place.


Can you elaborate what is the problem using the normal mandrel with the chuck please.

 

[gregmcateer]

Chipmunk, Chas Graham,
Many thanks for your suggestions. I should be able to find the Jacobs Chuck one, or poss fashion the 2MT arbor approach
Greg

 

[CHJ]

I don't understand why the standard mandrel is not gripable in your existing chuck, I have four chucks with various axminster accessory jaws fitted at any one time and although some are more preferable than others due to knuckle preservation they all take the mandrel as is.

 

[NickWelford]

I use a MT2 Jacobs chuck with the pigtail in. I always bring up the tail stock because sideways pressure on the buffing wheel pretty much always loosens the chuck.

 

[gregmcateer]

Thanks so much guys.
Chas, I will go to the shed tomorrow and try - I suspect that I am the problem!
I think I've been gripping only the 19mm end part, whereas if I grip the main part, I reckon it'll work just as Chas says.
I'll be back afterwards to beg forgiveness for being such adunce.
Greg

 

[Dalboy]

I mostly use the Robert Sorby chuck fitted with the 2" jaws, I don't change them just to use the chestnut system as the large mop support fits into the very centre of the jaws. Will take a picture if you want tomorrow

 

[CHJ]

When the mandrel sizes were first trialled, some years ago now, I know all popular chucks on sale at the time were checked with queries to suppliers regarding jaw bore dimensions and their ability to clamp on the 18mm or 25mm sections without having to remove the majority of accessory jaws.

I personally have come across some chucks where the carrier jaw nose and accessory jaw bore don't match which makes firm easy clamping a little more problematic. (had to dress the nose areas of two of my Versa chuck carriers which protruded for instance)

If you have a modern chuck/design re-incarnation that is causing problems I'm sure that Terry at Chestnuts would welcome a heads up and try and sort out a solution.

If you live near enough to me then make contact and see if we can get eyes on the problem and sort it.

 

[monkeybiter]

gregmcateer:- put the wheel on the parallel arbour, wind the jaws right out, then put the arbour down the centre of the chuck - jaws and all. Then tighten the jaws. The jaws will not grip the arbour where they normally grip a lump of wood, they will grip further in toward the chuck body.
Re. the Jacob's chuck on a MT arbour, do as NickWelford says and use a live centre in the tailstock to keep it in place, otherwise it may leave the lathe in search of your head.

 

[Grahamshed]

Re. the Jacob's chuck on a MT arbour, do as NickWelford says and use a live centre in the tailstock to keep it in place, otherwise it may leave the lathe in search of your head.

I had sort of assumed that was a given. Must remember to cover all the bases next time.

 

[gregmcateer]

I had sort of assumed that was a given. Must remember to cover all the bases next time.

Assume nothing, Graham, particularly when instructing a dunce!!

Thank you all so much, gentlemen all. I have been out to the shed this morning and can confirm that there is absolutely nothing wrong with any of the equipment therein - surely Operator Error #-o

I would be embarrassed, but with the help and support we all receive on here, I'm just glad I asked the question.

Thanks again chaps, much appreciated ccasion5:

Greg