Cherry table...oops, Teak table!...Dun

[woodbloke]

I'm underway with the fossil table (part deux ) and have made some progress without even so much as a glance at the bandsaw. This is the offending top:

which if you have a look at the pic carefully, looks cheesed...that' 'cos it is as every side is a different dimension with distances accros flats also being dissimilar. Here's the cunning plan for the second version:

which is four rectangular frames in teak with a pair of wide 'crosses' at the top and bottom to support them. As you can see, all the angles for the two frames are something other than 90deg, which will make for an interesting making experience very soon 8-[ The solid line is the upper X and the lower dotted line in red is the lower X, the lower one will be jointed to the frames with raised and wedged mortise and tenons and the top will be biscuited in place. Jointing at the corners of each of the vertical frames will be by open bridle joints. All timber was prepped by hand:

and then each piece for the frames was shot in:

The joints were marked out and cut:

and the tenons were trimmed to fit on the router table:

The through mortises were cut using the router:

with a larger base. A parallel packing arrangement was built so that the router runs true and square, so need for a double fence which I've tried, but don't like...this way is more stable IMO and just as accurate.
The four frames is as far as I've got at present, I need to start on the two X's next, one of which will be veneered, so some 12mm ply needed and the other one (the lowest) will be in the solid with a halving joint - Rob

 

[Paul Chapman]

With all that teak to plane by hand, the new Kell should get a good work-out Are you finding the wood very abrasive, Rob?

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[big soft moose]

looking good rob ,

btw where did you get your teak ? Ive got a load of sheet teak/teak veneered something else coming (from butchering an old G plan wardrobe) and plan on using it to make swimbo a sewing table - however i need some teak for the lippings

(unless i just use iroko of which i have masses in thin section, but i'm not sure it will look right)

 

[woodbloke]

looking good rob ,

btw where did you get your teak ?

Acquired in a different life :wink: ...couldn't possibly afford it now, but I've also got acres of teak veneer (also acquired)
Paul - yes, plane blades, even with A2 steel, need to honed every few minutes - Rob

 

[OPJ]

Pete, I'm sure Brad had a job to do with teak a while ago... Instead, I think he used oak and stained it - might be worth searching this forum for it.

Rob, I hope you have better luck this time! :wink:

 

[woodbloke]

Rob, I hope you have better luck this time! :wink:

Hope so 8-[ ...this job is a lot more staight forward than the last time - Rob

 

[head clansman]

hi rob


rob whilst using your router table which is clearly switched on and in motion please don't leave tools on the work surface dangerous practice .

If that torque bar had move only slightly the first thing you would have done is tried to stop it with one hand and this would have left one hand to hold the work piece brings all sorts of images in mind of what could happen to your other hand , they only grow once mate . hc :wink:

 

[woodbloke]

hi rob


rob whilst using your router table which is clearly switched on and in motion please don't leave tools on the work surface dangerous practice .

If that torque bar had move only slightly the first thing you would have done is tried to stop it with one hand and this would have left one hand to hold the work piece brings all sorts of images in mind of what could happen to your other hand , they only grow once mate . hc :wink:

Good advice...well spotted that man :wink: probably a 'wize' thing to do bearing in mind it's a router cutter. Will have to retake the pic. Thanks HC - Rob

 

[OPJ]

Rob, I've also got a question regarding your router table set up - what do you reference from to get the length of the tenon? I can't see a stop block - unless it's behind your left hand...?

 

[woodbloke]

Olly - there is no ref for the length of the tenons, they're just being skimmed to get them parallel and the correct thickness. After they've been trimmed the shoulders are chopped in with 25mm LN chisel, the router cutter stops a couple of mm away from the shoulder and the rest is pared away - Rob

 

[woodbloke]

A few pics of the finished table. Firstly, one shot in the 'shop against a plain background:

and a few of the jointing details:

...one of the corner bridles and then a couple showing the exposed and wedged mortise and tenons:

and a final shot of the thing in situ in the lounge:

Finish is three coats of matt Osmo Poly-X oil with a good application of my special teak wax :wink: over the top...more details on the Blog if anyone's interested...and not a whiff of the bandsaw anywhere :lol: - Rob

 

[DaveL]

Rob,

I know you made it to hold that top, but I still don't really like the top, the woodwork is great, make a new top if that slips of and breaks?

 

[Paul Chapman]

Good to see that it turned out well after all the problems you had with the first one, Rob. Those wedged tenons provide a nice link with the other pieces in the room.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

PS what's the brass thing :? Looks like a large money box with the slot in the top.

 

[woodbloke]

Cheers :wink:

Paul

PS what's the brass thing :? Looks like a large money box with the slot in the top.

Paul - that's a 100mm navy shell case engraved with her name and tour date, one of SWIMBO's souvenirs from the Falklands.
Dave - yup, the top is a real pain, but I'll leave you to tell SWIMBO that 8-[ 'cos she thinks it's wonderful - Rob

 

[big soft moose]

Rob,

I know you made it to hold that top, but I still don't really like the top, the woodwork is great, make a new top if that slips of and breaks?

I'm with you on that one dave - great wood work but the top is hideous , needs "accidentally" dropping down the stairs ......several times if necessary.

I thought that with the last design too - great shame that rob didnt take a lump hammer to it when he saw red rather than bandsawing the framework imo.

 

[Ironballs]

Some nice, fine work there Rob, your bridles are excellent and can be deceptively tricky to finish cleanly and well

 

[OPJ]

I like it, Rob. Nice, clean, straight-forward design to let the top do the talking. ...No, I don't like the top either but, the design does work! :wink:

 

[woodbloke]

Thanks for the comments and I echo your sentiments on the top...not my personal choice, but sometimes you have very little choice in these matters 8-[ ](*,) - Rob

 

[PaulO]

where did you get your teak ?

Robbins in Bristol sell teak. The sell lots of it to boat builders.
http://www.robbins.co.uk/marine/teak.asp

Just checked their price list and it works out at £300 / cu ft + VAT :shock: for rough sawn. There are minimum order limits as well, otherwise it gets more pricey. (For metric buffs that is £10,570 / cu m)

I wonder how much the timber merchants in Myanmar get for it.

 

[big soft moose]

where did you get your teak ?

Robbins in Bristol sell teak. The sell lots of it to boat builders.
http://www.robbins.co.uk/marine/teak.asp

Just checked their price list and it works out at £300 / cu ft + VAT :shock: for rough sawn. There are minimum order limits as well, otherwise it gets more pricey. (For metric buffs that is £10,570 / cu m)

I wonder how much the timber merchants in Myanmar get for it.

cheers but i only need a little bit for lipping - ive got a mate whos brother is a boat builder , might see if i can get so offcuts from him.