Captive ring home made tool

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Shay Vings

Established Member
17 Apr 2009
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I fancy a go at one of these. However, I get the impression it's a novelty thing you do a few times then never again so does anyone have suggestion for curved scraper thingy or can they be done without special tools?
Simple Just bend a 4" wire nail grind it flat to[ and bottom of the curve harden fit a handle use a parting tool to form the bead then go under it with your nail and it will remove it from the main part of the wood I made one the other week for a one of job
As an alternative, the skew scraper variants like these...


...can be easily made from old or cheap wood chisels. Shape the chisel into a skew chisel (keep it cool during grinding) and then grind/diamond file a "dent" of the right diameter into the face of the skew. Soften the nose of the skew to set the cutting width beneath the ring.

They are easy to sharpen with a diamond hone like a skew and will cut left and right sides of the ring. You need to make them in different sizes but they help keep the ring profile round which can be more tricky with the bent-nail or allen key tools.

Cheap and easiest ... large cheap flat bladed screwdriver can be had for £1, mount a 4.5" angle grinder disc on a 'jam mandrel' on the lathe, grind the profile you fancy in a minute or two, job done. At that price I can afford to make a few variations and treat them almost as consumables.
Hi Mike,
I like the idea of the angle-grinder blade in a mandrell on the lathe - neat idea.

I think I have a slitting saw arbor which might fit the bill too.

I've made this a lot of years back and it has served me well. An old 1" chisel complete with handle. Cost, nothing but a few minutes of my time..


Edit : - Nearly forgot. Before you go under and part the ring off make sure that you have the finish you want on the outside of the ring, because you will have difficulties sanding/polishing/etc. after it's free..
I like the sound of these!

When you say a mandrel for the grinder blade how do you do it? Could you use a bolt through the disc and into a drill chuck (placed in the headstock).
Hi Adam,
This is a slitting saw arbour - Does this help?

The key to it working is that the bore of the blade (7/8" for a 115mm blade) is matched by the spigot on the main body, and the washer has a corresponding hole slightly laregr than the spigot so that any thickness of blade can be clamped flat against the main body with a short bolt.

I used the waste left in the chuck after parting off a goblet or similar, approx 3" diameter. I turned the face slightly concave except for a short stub the right diameter for the disc bore, which protruded past the rest of the face.
When the disc was placed on the stub [snug fit] the periphery of the wood supported the disc at the full diameter [approx 3" as said].
I then brought up the tailstock with a home made cup-shaped sleeve fitted over the live centre [the sort used when holding a ball] This allowed the tailstock to pinch the disc against the first piece in the chuck, without interfering with the central stub.

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