Can't get my battery charger to elctrolysise

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Graham Orm

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I have a charger with a 'faulty battery' warning light. When trying to clean rust using it for electrolysis I have to connect it four or five times before it will run properly, but eventually it works out that there's something not right and switches over to 'faulty battery mode'. I've tried putting a bulb in the circuit to create a resistance which worked for half an hour but then stopped.

Any ideas?
 
phil.p":1ukaswfo said:
I did read somewhere that you need to use an older type charger, without the safety cutouts etc.

Thanks, I think I'll end up getting one, seems daft the one I've got is good, just need to bypass the safety gadget. I've been inside it, it's all printed circuitry so can't do much with it.
 
nev":1clqgapt said:
would it possibly work if you put a battery in series with the electrolysis ?
usual disclaimer, sparks gases etc :)

Probably Nev thanks, but I don't have one other than on the vehicles and don't want to start messing with them.
 
Hi

Do you have an old phone charger that you can adapt?

Keep an eye on it initially - they can get quite hot.

Regards Mick
 
Spindle":2vv9qe4h said:
Hi

Do you have an old phone charger that you can adapt?

Keep an eye on it initially - they can get quite hot.

Regards Mick

How does that work Mick? I have a drawer full!
 
Hi

Exactly the same way as a battery charger. Cut the phone jack off, expose the conductors, (attach to crocodile clips if you have them - failing that clamp them to the item you wish to de-rust and electrode with clothes pegs or similar), and away you go.

As I said, the first time you use it keep an eye on how hot the charger gets - normally they are fine but I have heard of them overheating.

Regards Mick
 
phil.p":33emvemh said:
What happens if you connect the wires the wrong way round? Does it just not work?

It works in reverse, your plane donates to the sacrificial rod and ends up with holes in it.
 
Hi

I'd say no - stainless steel will produce chromium compounds in solution so I assume galvanised rod would produce zinc compounds. I don't think it will affect the process but the solution becomes hazardous to dispose of in the case of stainless - may be similar for galvanised.

Regards Mick
 
phil.p":3w2103i3 said:
My last post disappeared into the ether. Is it immediately obvious if you connect up the wrong way around?

No not obvious at all. The only reaction is a fizzing bubbling, there is a build up around the sacrificial bit on the bottom of the tank after a while, that would give it away. I'd have said the fact that the live wire is red would be a bigger clue :p :wink:
 
Spindle":2w8ssos9 said:
Hi

I'd say no - stainless steel will produce chromium compounds in solution so I assume galvanised rod would produce zinc compounds. I don't think it will affect the process but the solution becomes hazardous to dispose of in the case of stainless - may be similar for galvanised.

Regards Mick

Thanks. I knew about stainless, just wondered if I was galvanising my 1930 #5?
 
phil.p":e3bsex0a said:
I didn't realise that phone chargers had red and black wires. :)

Neither did I. They are very fine, I used my 'Aldi' wire strippers to remove the outer cover which revealed a black and red wire, plain sailing from there.
 
Thanks. I knew about stainless, just wondered if I was galvanising my 1930 #5?

Hi

Never managed to chrome plate anything when I was using stainless tube as an electrode :(

Regards Mick
 
If you are stripping rust the residues (rust/grease/soot/paint/coal/oil etc) are attracted to the anode (+), so if you got the wires the right way theres no danger of getting zinc or any other metal onto the item you are stripping (connected to _). It would only happen if the wires were the wrong way, in which case you would be adding to the residues on your tools to be cleaned, not cleaning them. Electrolysis is electroplating in reverse. I would just use a piece of plain mild steel as an anode.

I have cleaned probaly 30 or 40 saws and a variety of other tools with electrolysis. Here is a tip that might help. I found that if you scrape the gunge off the anode every few hours, the process works more efficiently. And a wide expanse of anode metal works well too, I 0nce used an old pressed steel shelf bracket.
The first charger I used blew out quickly so I got a powerfuller one (6 amp iirc, I am not a technical electrical type person, not sure of that amp, but the replacement is still working 6 years later)
 
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