cumbrian":13ywen1h said:
Many thanks for all the information. What was puzzling me was the guard size - I've assumed that this would not be the same for a 10 inch saw and a twelve inch saw, but maybe I'm wrong there?
The DW111 and DW125 were both 10in saws - I once had a shop with one of each side by side so I've been able to compare first hand. The main difference was the arm casting - much heavier on the DW111. As far as I can remember the guards were pretty much identical on my pair (and yours looks like that on my current DW1751, the DW125s longer brother) - although that was 25 odd years back, so....... Incidentally, The DW150 and DW175 were originally 10in saws as well. If you wan't parts details ring DW in Slough (01753 567055 options 1 then 4) and ask them to send you out a parts break-down. They still have the parts diagrams (albeit not on the net) - I've had to do that this morning for my DW1420S, another saw which disappeared in the Elu period.
cumbrian":13ywen1h said:
As the riving knife and kickback assembly are missing, I've been hoping to source those (hence the need to get the guard size right); however, and at risk of reopening what sounds like an old can of worms and being banned from the site (I plead newbie defence), I'm getting a sneaking impression that ripping is regarded as a total no-no, and presumably the riving knife etc are redundant for crosscuts.
The riving knife is certainly a lot less useful on a cross cut because if the work is properly held against the fence and tendency to kickback will result in the work being directed downwards and away from the operator - although the motor/blade will also tend to try and climb the work in that instance so correct placement of hands and as is correct posture. Ripping is a different matter - I certainly wouldn't attempt it without the anti-kickback arm/fingers on place as you'll certainly be risking a kickback. The riving knife is there to handle any warping caused by de-stressing of the timber and is also important, but its that anti-kickback device you really must have.
One trick if ripping on a radial arm saw is to face and edge plane any timber before ripping - that way you're less likely to have work tilting or moving as you push through.
At the risk of inducing yawns, take a look at
this page - alright that's directed at the trades types like me, but the advice about safe usage is universal
Incidentally your saw appears to be missing the table top (4 pieces + fence as I recall), it's clamps/brackets, the support rail which goes underneath the table, etc. And the guard should have a rear protection piece, shaped like a "C" and a front nose guard. To see what I mean,
this is the drawing you need
Scrit
