Building a Garden Office Advice Required

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Hi

We are only slow at the moment. Walls are covered and need to fit the ceiling. I need some advice on how to connect the struts to the rafters to strengthen up the roof. I was told to use Ply glued and screwed to either side of the connection. I have 28 of these connection to do and wondered if I could use my nail gun and nail them instead? Would it be strong enough?

Advice gratefully received.

Thanks

Mark
 
Hi Mark...The conventional way is way is to glue and screw the plywood gussets to both rafters and collars, but assuming you use ring shank nails in the nailer it should be ok. Screws are used to impart a compressive force, effectively pulling together both surfaces, reducing the shrinkage/expansion at these areas and thereby reducing the chance of de-lamination. When you think about it, ring shank nails will provide a similar force, and it won't be the end of the world if you had to repair some in the future, just a pain...bosshogg :)

Some Scots colloquial -
Errapolis :The constabulary is approaching.Usually followed by "Ah'm gettin the f*@k ootae here"
:lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Hi All

Its been a while. I have cladded all the interior with 8 x 4 Bead & butt sheets giving the interior a instant TGV panel feel. I am very pleased with this. I have now come to the finish joinery, Architrives, skirting reveals.

As my UPVC windows are smooth with the outside wall this has created a reveal which I need to frame out and attach achitrive to.

I have no idea how I should do this as the UPVC windows are fastened to the studs using plastic screw on tabs that project internally. I will post some photos soon as I need to explain myself. Can anyone advise me on framing out the reveal and fitting the achitrive. Measuring and cutting.


Mark
 
6357554149_e574c1005a.jpg


6357552329_3b6fc24bc7.jpg


This is the window frame showing the plastic window retainer.

I need to box these out and fit architrive.

I need to buy some stock now as the decorator (father in law) is here!!

Mark
 
Couple of ways you can do this.
First a favourite way of the replacement window boys, build up plastic packers off the framing, with silicone cementing the packers together
packers.jpg
making sure that they are both perpendicular to the window frame, aligned and straight to each other (don't expect symmetry to any of the framing except the window frames) Set the cill in place (normally 30 - 40mm proud of the wall) cut and stitch an apron piece in place and with the top plate cut to a snug fit, so as to hold it in place, measure the distances between these at the side plate placements, (these should be the same, 1 - 2 mm doesn't make a whole lot of difference, any more go back a step or two) once cut square and assembled you should have the windows framed with ingoes (window plates) witch are open on the face i.e. you can see the fixing brackets, packers etc. This void should be filled with expanding foam, enough to allow a small protrusion into the room when it's set, using the fixed plasterboard as a guide, cut the set excess foam flush between it and the edges of the ingoes, this will both glue, seal and insulate this troublesome detail. Cut and fix your facings (architraves) and replace and nail the apron piece, removed to allow for foaming.
Expanding foam produces quite a lateral force when it is pumped into a trapped space, so make sure you have some pressure sticks handy to shore as required.

The other way to do it is simply to cut and fit timber packers, scribing over fixing plates etc. still ensuring perpendicularity and straightness, nail these around the window. Either pack the voids out with glass wool insulation so that when the ingoes go on all is snug, or as above, or a mixture of both. Nail and fill as required your facings, then paint to suit.

The first procedure is especially good if you want a varnish finished trim around your window, as it has limited nail heads to show, both should show similar to this
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Cheers...bosshogg :)
 

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Great Help Boss.

Not sure on the terminology $&*^%$%^.

Do you have a close up of the window casing without the achitrive. What I have found is that the window openings are not exactly square so I will need to square the casing ( not sure of term) so it is square.

Thanks


Mark
 
Markymark":34zgt8r1 said:
Great Help Boss.

Not sure on the terminology $&*^%$%^.

Do you have a close up of the window casing without the achitrive. What I have found is that the window openings are not exactly square so I will need to square the casing ( not sure of term) so it is square.

Thanks


Mark

If the windows openings aren't square to the windows - just insert whatever is require or to hand to square the reveals. Be they plasterboard or timber reveals. You could use strips of timber to space off the reveals\sill or foam it and use some form of temporary fixing.

Mine weren't absolutely square and I used both methods.

Dibs
 
Ok

I am cladding the walls now. The inside has finished we are using the great new space. Thanks for all the advice from everyone.

I need to flash above the windows and doors so if any water gets under the shiplap it does not go into the window heads. I have a roll of Code 4 Lead which I am going to use but wondered if anyone had any advice for me on how to flash correctly.

I was going to cut a slit in the tyvek above the window and push up a piece of lead slightly wider than the window and then attach it with a timber batton? The lead skirt would then be moulded in to a small drip edge just above the window frame.

Update - I am up to the top of the window frames with the shiplap and I have a difference in height in the shiplap. All four shiplap piers have ended at a different point at the top of each window +/-1" Does redwood Shiplap have a tolerance? I need some help on how to make right.


Thanks Mark
 
Ok. All done. I used Code 4 ead flashing above windows and doors. Took a bit of work but I think it will work very well. I am really pleased with the overall finish. My only gripe is that the recommended fastening for 4" redwood shiplap was with a single nail on each strip. I would have loved to had them secret nailed but to stop the board cupping it needed to be this way.

Any how I have the other three elevations to shiplap and then to Tongue and Groove the soffits and install ventilation holes. Then Fasias and Bargeboards and Hey presto the finished article. I will post some photos soon.

Mark
 
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