Building a Bike / Tool Shed - Roofing and Painting

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Finished all the brackets yesterday, concrete was harder than I had expected, where I had planned using my Dewalt cordless, I had to switch over to my well trusted and best buy of all my tools the BTI hammer drill.

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

I even had enough time to put the first sheets of OSB on the roof. But that is a way to dangerous thing to do on your own (manhandling these sheets by yourself is not easy). So the rest has to wait until the weekend, when I can enlist the help of my wife

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr
 
Had a few hours this evening, so out I went, but before I started I had to do one thing that had been bugging me for a while. I have this tool belt with two pockets, but two pockets is just to much, these are hard formed ones, and do not give way when you brush along something; so one had to go

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Next was cutting up a number of OSB sheets, and putting angles on them.

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

This time I had some help getting the board on the roof, which made it a whole lot easier

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Tomorrow I hope to finish the roof, and put a membrane on it
 
Was able to finish the roof on Saturday, however the membrane didn’t arrive, so that has to wait till whenever the post will drop it off.

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Next I put a strip of wood (left over roof tile batten) on the floor and up the posts, this will take later the featheredge and the gravel boards

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Sunday was a bit of a bad day with all the rain, so not much got done. Was able to complete all the strips of wood on the posts, a further 6 uprights, and all the gravel boards

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

On top of the gravel board I will put a modified 45mm x 75mm joist. This joist will receive the rebated featheredge boards

This is a picture of it complete – to give you an idea of what I will be making; purpose is that if any water will be dripping down, it will not drop on the concrete

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

I cut them two at a time, so it will give enough support to the saw – you can see I have to joist clamped together

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

More rain predicted for tomorrow, so I will probably have to wait a few days before I can continue
 
Not much to report on the build other than that Mr Postman delivered the breathable membrane. Maybe I will have time tonight to make a start by putting it on the roof

IMG_1632 by Chris, on Flickr
 
Roof is finished, that is I finished installing the breathable membrane, the felt shingles have to wait. I’m about 3 packs short of the shingles. I therefore made sure the breathable membrane is done properly (buys me time to find 3 more packs of these shingles)

Sunday was the only day that I could work on the shed, Saturday was mostly used for driving lessons. Took my Daughter over to the farm and let her drive on the fields. (of course under supervision) I’m very happy how she is progressing.

On Sunday morning I first finished the membrane, followed by picking up 10 sheets of used 11mm OSB2. Decided to board out the inside of the shed. Not a real necessity but it will make the shed more durable on the inside, less issues with nocks against the featheredge and it will provide a level surface to place the racks against, which means less issues with pushing stuff of the back shelves.

On eBay there are a lot of sellers who offer used sheets. Sheets that originally have been used for boarding up building sites, and have one of its sites painted. I have no idea where these have been used for, but they looked pretty new and unused to me.

Untitled by Chris

Having to pick these boards up meant that I was not able to start until after lunch.

Calculated that I needed 12 sheets, that is if I would do it “properly” to the nearest stud. However he had only 10 of the 11mm, and I didn’t fancy using 18mm, so I needed to be creative.

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

By cutting the sheets diagonally in half I was able to recover 2 sheets, or by looking at the waste left over, I might have even been able to do it with 9 (but that would be cutting it fine).

One slight issue though, my 16g brad nailer broke down, after 15 years of error free operation, it decided to not play ball any longer

So, I pulled it apart to see what the issue was

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Found it.

A dried up rubber at the bottom of the firing pin

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

This is where it sits

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

I say dried up, it was completely perished, definitely not an issue of me not oiling the nailer as there was enough oil in the chamber. I will see if they sell this part separately. Lucky I have another nailer, this one I use for staples but is a 18G. Well it means the boards will get done with staples rather than nails- not a big issue

Untitled by Chris

After that it was plane sailing and all the boards where in by 20.00

Untitled by Chris

Untitled by Chris

Untitled by Chris

Untitled by Chris


I have enough OSB left over to do fancy trim work around the top.
 
During the week I did some small jobs, of which one was to reduce the size off these oversized bolts.


Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

I cut them down with the angle grinder, and found a bunch of these dome nuts, for which I have no projects planned, so I will use them for now.

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr


Untitled by Chris, on Flickr
 
So this Saturday was the big day for installing the featheredge boards, been looking forward it all week, as it just finishes things off.

But first things first, the drip edge strips.

So this is what I had created earlier

Untitled by Chris

I clamped to joist together so it was easier for the saw to sit on

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Very pleased how the cut fits the rebate on the featheredge boards

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

My choice for these rebated boards was:
A) They were the same price as normal featheredge boards.
B) They were locally available
C) Easier to fit by yourself
D) It gives a flat surface on the back – so each board sits against the joist, so less bending
E) They are less protruding on the front


Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

Untitled by Chris, on Flickr

But is was pointed out by a forum member that I had forgotten to make it a non return drip edge, as now the water could run back to the gravelboard

So I had to cut one extra groove to make it a non-return drip edge

Untitled by Chris


Untitled by Chris

After that, they where ready to be fitted

Untitled by Chris

Untitled by Chris

And now we are ready for the boards

Untitled by Chris

Measure one, and then you can load up the saw with 6 boards at the time. That is the benefit of making sure you’re beams are spot on, beats to have to measure each and every board

I was surprised how quick it went up!

Untitled by Chris

Untitled by Chris

Untitled by Chris

Untitled by Chris

Untitled by Chris


Untitled by Chris

Untitled by Chris

Was very pleased with how little wastage there was

https://flic.kr/p/uptSUY by Chris

Next up…. the doors

Untitled by Chris
 
Chris that's a real nice saw you have there Maffal are top of the range prof tools, you probably know this but I`LL say it any way if you take the fence off the saw and turn it up side down the fence acts as a out rigger ( an extension to the base of the saw) let the fence sit on a scantlin and you have a solid base to the saw.

This point may be a bit to late for you on this project but it may be you can use it in the future or it may help somebody else on their project. In the U K the ends of the spars are usually boxed in IE soffit and fascia but where the tails are left open and the tails fly over say 15" the tops of the spars would be cut out to take a T&G board .
Lets say the T&G board would be 4" x 3/4" you would cut a piece from the top of every spar 3/4" deep and 17" long this would bring you over the wall plate. You would then fit T&G boards face down and nailed from the top. then plate over the top of this with your OSB boards. All this is so when you look under the eves you see a finished job and not the OSB boards.
Or you could use ship lap like on the walls just a small point but it is the small points that make the difference.
BTW I`ve never been allowed to put a post on concert without a damp prof membrane under it, Just something to think about.The capillary grove at 1/8" is not really wide enough the water will spring over it you need at least 1/4". Complements man your doing a top job.
.
 
phil.p":3b56ti88 said:
I think I might have left the over length bolts in case I wanted to bolt something to them. :)


I left them long in the corners - but the ones in the middle and next to the door are to obvious, and as i had the dome nuts, hell why not
 
Billy Flitch":hxcf1t6m said:
Chris that's a real nice saw you have there Maffal are top of the range prof tools, you probably know this but I`LL say it any way if you take the fence off the saw and turn it up side down the fence acts as a out rigger ( an extension to the base of the saw) let the fence sit on a scantlin and you have a solid base to the saw.


.

I have this saw - i think - longer than 16 years, and i had not thought of that. i must admit i hardly use the fence. If possible i will use the guide rail- just for that purpose of stability
 
Billy Flitch":17gnlfqs said:
This point may be a bit to late for you on this project but it may be you can use it in the future or it may help somebody else on their project. In the U K the ends of the spars are usually boxed in IE soffit and fascia but where the tails are left open and the tails fly over say 15" the tops of the spars would be cut out to take a T&G board .
Lets say the T&G board would be 4" x 3/4" you would cut a piece from the top of every spar 3/4" deep and 17" long this would bring you over the wall plate. You would then fit T&G boards face down and nailed from the top. then plate over the top of this with your OSB boards. All this is so when you look under the eves you see a finished job and not the OSB boards.
Or you could use ship lap like on the walls just a small point but it is the small points that make the difference.
.
.

I have also the carport to fix, and i'm thinking of boxing it in, so the two buildings will nicely match up, and than i also have something to fix the gutter to. on the carport i have painted the OSB board, and you are right it doesn't look good
 
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