Boxford Pillar Drill

[colinc]

Hi,

I just bought an old Boxford drill identical to this (sorry my camera was flat so this is not mine)

It was not the finest looking example, having lived outside but under cover for a while. After a days cleaning, de-rusting and replacing a few nuts and bolts etc., it now looks pretty good. It just needs a new nvr switch to replace the toggle switch fitted and I was going to make a ply table/fence for it.

I paid £120 for it which seems good value compared to the current crop of imports. It runs very well and there is no obvious sign of any play/wear anywhere. I don't know what it weighs but it's a lot.

I have been searching around trying to find a manual for it as I would like to know how to look after it, particularly as it has a gear box to give a high/low speed range. I haven't found anything so far but wondered if anyone here might be able to help

regards

Colin

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Very good buy, they just dont make them as good anymore, and I bet you get more than 2" of travel with the chuck which is the problem with most of the modern stuff churned out.

Can't help you with the manual, have you done a google? where is Scrit?

 

[colinc]

The chuck travels about 4 inches (102mm) which is double what my existing Rexon drill could do. That was why I started looking as 2 inches is just too small.

The distance from the chuck to the column is greater too at about 190mm - might have liked more but that has never really been an issue on the old one.

What would be really nice to have would be a crank adjustable table height or some form of lifting mechanism. I do so hate having to adjust the table to suit different length drills if I work from a pilot drill up to the finished diameter. Inevitably the table is moved to one side as you change it's height.

Colin

 

[Ed]

Colin,

I found some drill related docs on http://www.lathes.co.uk when I was rebuilding my fobco drills. Might be worth a search for you boxford manual.

Best of luck.

Ed

 

[timbar]

Hi
I am doing the same with an identical machine. I have found what looks like an oilbath in the top under the drive belt cover. Inside is the gear box, the bath is empty but I can only imagine that it is this. The machine is running a little bit noisy So maybe it should be filled. Any ideas?

 

[Bean]

Timbar I would think that the gearbox should be lubricated, I have more experience with Pollards and have a few 50 yeear old ones still running day in day out.

Boxford are still a going concern, they make lathes and sell into schools and the like.

 

[colinc]

Sorry but I am still unsure about maintenance. I'll take a closer look at the area tomorrow - labelling on the machine suggests it should get oiled in thatgeneral area thouh. Mine is quiet though.

colin

 

[timbar]

I was so sure I went and filled it, Runs better now but the oil seeps out down the quill so its not a good idea! (I emptied it straight away). Great machine with a one horse motor on it. I have to use a Rexon where I teach which is frankly junk by comparison.

 

[Bean]

Timbar sounds like you need a new oil seal, replace it and the machine will love you for it

 

[9fingers]

Bean could well have put his finger on the solution here but also quite often gear boxes don't need to be filled to the brim but instead just enough for splash fed lube of the gears.

Does all the oil you put in fall out down the quill or does it retain some? If so this might just indicate how much it needs.

hth

Bob

 

[timbar]

Any idea where I might obtain a seal? and how much work to replace? The oil seeps out particularly when the quill is worked up and down. It still seemed to be coming out even when the box was quite empty ( less than 1/2" of oil)
The box looked as if it had never been filled-but its only been used in a school so not very heavy use.

 

[9fingers]

Oil seals are generally standard parts but may well have changed from Imperial to metric since your machine was produced.
Imperial ones are still available but possily to order.
Bearing factors are the place to go but you need to know what you want or to take the old one along. Bearing services Ltd (BSL) are in most big towns and can normally get most things in a day or so. Yellow pages online would be a good starting place.
For a seal on a sliding surface the seal could well be compressed felt in a soft steel carrier. For a rotating seal, there is likely to be a rubber annulus again fixed in a steel carrier and the seal surface pressed on the shaft by a ring of tension spring stock (like net curtains used to supported by but much lighter gauge.

It is quite normal for the steel carrier to be destroyed (collapsed) when taking out the old one. New ones are carefully tapped into place with a piece of hardwood or a brass drift.
If you do get a manual, it may list the part number/primary dimensions of the seal
Hope this helps

Bob

 

[timbar]

Thankyou, its on the list!