Better Wax than Briwax?

[sitefive]

Seems like everyone and their dog is using this wax, decided to buy 2 of the most popular colors - dark oak/rustic pine, in pictures in looked good, however when applied it just looks meh...super average stuff, definitely not something that Pops out right away, the consistence looks good and so does applying it but the end result is just below average in my eyes and something that would suit maybe some old depressed people house.
Anyone can suggest something?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you use Briwax, put on and get it off quickly - it'll dry too thick otherwise, and it's a sod to polish off then. I'd rather use a microcrystalline wax, but I don't wax bare wood. Are you on a finish or bare wood, it makes a bit of difference.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Anyone can suggest something?

How you're using it?

Seriously, I use Briwax (solvent version) and like it a lot. I use other Liberon products though, so I can't say anything bad about them.

I do one or two coats of sanding sealer, usually, de-nibbed with 0000 grade wire wool, then several coats of Briwax, polishing off each time to almost gone with a well-used yellow duster. I've also got excellent results on top of Melamine (can-sprayed), on oak.

If you want a mirror finish, you'll be wanting French polishing.

Briwax gives me a pleasant satin, and is good for maintenance on older furniture that's got a French polished finish.

I use the clear, solvent (i.e. not water-based) version. I remain unconvinced about water-based wood coatings for an amateur (like me). They evidently work in a factory or a paint shop, but I can't spray nor control the conditions enough, I think, for good results -- one speck of grease and the finish is ruined with water based stuff.

Sister-in-law is a paint chemist and she tells me I'm being silly, and that water-based stuff is fine (she formulates a lot of the base chemistry). My experience tells me otherwise.

E.

PS: agree with Phil about it "sticking" but a lot of the finish is down to the effort expended. Be prepared to wad a bit of old sheet round a screwdriver, etc., to get into the crevices and corners.

 

[Alexam]

This is the one I prefer to use after sanding sealer http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chestnut-Micr ... 5d41d31fcd

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Couple of quid cheaper at Axi.

 

[nicguthrie]

I love using microcrystalline wax on top of other finishes. It helps keep a glossy finish from getting covered in finger prints once folks start handling it.

Doesn't work on top of everything, I've had a couple things react to it slightly, but usually because I didn't wait for the finish to cure completely before adding it on top.

It won't magically create a perfect shine, but it's a pretty good protective layer, in fact the expensive one, renaissance wax, was apparently designed for protecting antiques of all sorts by museum restorers - if you believe the blurb!

Nic.

 

[Alexam]

Perhaps I should spread it on my body?

 

[nicguthrie]

Haha! It's a close relative of Vaseline, so maybe if you're swimming the channel?

On the other hand, in the blurb they say it even works for oil paintings, so you may be on to something, sneak it into the wife's cosmetic bag, see if it makes a difference!

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

[custard]

Perhaps I should spread it on my body?

 

[custard]

Seems like everyone and their dog is using this wax, decided to buy 2 of the most popular colors - dark oak/rustic pine, in pictures in looked good, however when applied it just looks meh...super average stuff, definitely not something that Pops out right away, the consistence looks good and so does applying it but the end result is just below average in my eyes and something that would suit maybe some old depressed people house.
Anyone can suggest something?

I can confirm that neither my dog nor I ever uses Briwax.

Wax hardly even qualifies as a finish. It's unsuitable for anything that will ever get damp, wet, stained, handled, heated, scratched...

For almost all furniture you're best thinking of wax as something you might apply over the real finish.

If you want super maximum protection (at the cost of looking "plasticky") try a two pack varnish.

If you want to accentuate highly figured timbers (think fiddleback maple or curly cherry) use an aniline dye then an oil/varnish blend or a more protective varnish coat.

If you want to keep pale timbers pale then use a water based finish.