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Hard wax oil over briwax

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Cappie49

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Ok lads decided to strip the bar back with white spirt and wire wool, I have everything I need and am gonna finish it in sadolin pv 67 satin, a stockist is close by, another question I’d like to stain it a walnut colour is there any particular product I need or will any walnut stain be ok?
 

CHJ

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... I’d like to stain it a walnut colour i...
Suggest a test area whatever stain you choose, ANY vestige of residual wax will result in uneven stain absorption.
Tinting any product you use to finish may be a better option.
 

mrpercysnodgrass

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There are products you can get to tint the PV67 but I would not go down that route, you are better off staining first. These Liberon pallet wood dyes are very good and easy to apply with a sponge they are a water based dye so should not be affected by the PV67.
You said at the beginning your bar top is a hardwood but you did not say which. I mention it because if you want a walnut colour you will not necessarily get a walnut colour by using a walnut stain!! The stain you use will be influenced by the natural colour of the timber you are applying it to. That said you should be in the right ballpark by using the liberon dye but it would be worth staining the edge first to make sure you are happy with the colour.
 

Cappie49

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Thank you for all the help, I’m new to all this and the information people have shard has been great, thanks again everybody. I’ll post pics when it gets finished. I’m unsure what type of wood it is, I can email the maker and ask if needed, would pics of the bar help? It’s as I bought it still finished in the briwax
 

Richard_C

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Ah, just realised there were more posts than I thought when I wrote this so it's irrelevant. Can't seem to delete it though, but have managed to edit by putting this para in. Oh well.

I use briwax to get a pleasing lustre on turned items that are not going to be handled much but its very soft. I have used microcrystalline wax applied over briwax for things that get a bit more handling but wouldn't recommend it for a kitchen worktop.

My beech worktops were oiled when I put them in, then again after a week, then a month then left for a few years before sanding back and repeating. They don't like standing water, I get odd stains where wet things have stood for a while, like a damp bottomed bowl overnight. I've used acrylic varnishes on other things like coffee tables with good results.

It's a trade off. Oil is less durable but dead easy to apply and to fix, but were I to do the kitchen now I would probably go with one of the modern satin finishes mentioned above.

We stayed in a holiday cottage a year ago which had really high gloss finish on wooden worktops. Might have been epoxy. It's a matter of personal taste but after the initial "wow" it was just too much shine and reflection for me.
 

mrpercysnodgrass

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With and without flash
Your breakfast bar is made from pine of some sort. It was originally one piece that has been cut in half and opened up then joined. If you look at the semi circular marks on either side you will see they match and if you look at the smaller saw marks in the middle where the join is you will see they also match, these are where the board was turned over and put through the saw a second time because the blade was not large enough to make the cut in one pass.
If you use the liberon stain and the PV67 you will still get the finish you want but because of the heavy saw marks you will always have a 'rustic' look to it which if fine but if you wanted a smarter cleaner finish you will have a great deal of sanding to do to get those saw marks out.
 

Cappie49

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Was told it was hardwood but pine is fine I guess and yeah rustic look is fine, thanks again for all the help
 

mr.alan.

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Personally - as you have stated it is going to be for heavy use in a busy kitchen area - I would forget about wax altogether. I would take it to local finishes and get them to put a two-pack lacquer on- failing that - Strip all the wax off yourself, and apply coats of polyurethane varnish.
 
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