Best way to join thin/narrow pieces of wood?

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MusicMan":12lj2eup said:
Suggest you make a shooting board, and us it to square/finish/dimension the pieces. Then it doesn't matter if the hand sawing is crappy. Plenty of threads on here on shooting boards.

Keith

I don't have a shooting board so I'll look into that, thanks.
 
Lons":17p2iz8n said:
LFS19":17p2iz8n said:
That sounds like a good idea - how would you make the thin prices of wood? Thanks

Could use thick veneer, plastic, thin ply or better slice off on your table saw or by hand a piece the thickness of the saw kerf you use to cut into the joints, just needs a light hand sanding and glue in with pva, trim off when dry.
When cutting thin slice use a thicker timber against the fence and the slice you want is the offcut on the free side of the blade, if that makes sense, easier to to than explain.

A cheap hand mitre saw might be very useful to you, they can be very accurate. This kind of thing, loads on the market to choose from. I have a Nobex I've used regularly for 30 years.


Good idea, thanks for the information.

And yes, I've thought about getting a miter saw for a while now - I think I'd do well to buy one.
 
sunnybob":1qncmzcw said:
I make small boxes.
Among the methods I use are 45 degree mitre cut on a chop saw. But I had to spend a day "adjusting" the chop saw to give an accurate mitre because it didnt come square from the factory. And the joints are strong enough for any use the box would expect to be put to.

If its a very small box I make the mitres by using the disc sander on my 4" belt / 6"disc sanding machine with the table adjusted to 45 degrees.

I also use box joint with my trend router box joint bit on my router table. Tricky to work out the first couple of tries, but a nice consistent and quick job once youve mastered it. I make 8 sided boxes with the box joint cutter as well.

I am just about to start using my new birdmouth cutter for the next project box. Have a look at this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hmITWrn_jo

Another tip, make the wood a few mm thicker when you start. glue it all up and after its dry sand the sides back to the thickness you want. I always work with 8mm, then when finished sand the outside down to 6mm. That allows you to remove any "amateur" errors.

OH, while I'm here. get a GOOD blade for your bandsaw, bandsaw drift is a result of a bad blade or wrong adjustment.

Interesting on all points, thanks.
Both a box joint cutter and these bird mouth ones you mentioned seem like a good investment.

As you mentioned you do,I may be best with a simple miter, and as others have suggested getting a miter saw.

And yes, I think perhaps a new band saw blade might be in order.
The one I'm using was my grandads and I think he had it in the garage for years, so I'm not sure what condition the balder is in.
 
Whenever I fall out of love with my band saw through drift, iffy cuts, whatever, I hark back to this excellent video I once watched. I can recommend you grab a cup of tea and watch it. 35mins long, informative and makes the point well.

https://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU

Oh and Diresta did a good bandsaw tips video in his "tips" series - and if you're a newbie, get a pot of tea and watch the rest of the series sometime.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gA4lpsEWM5k
 
I've had a steep learning curve on bandsaws this past year. Threw the first one away ( a FOX). Even tuffsaw blades couldnt make that rubbish work.
My new Axminster bandsaw again came with a rubbish blade, but I fitted an axcaliber and its unbelievable the difference.
A bandsaw that cuts well is a very useful tool.
 
LFS19":3p9daza6 said:
The only way I seem to be able to do it is a butt joint, which I know is inherently weak
Can I just confirm, are you talking about a butt joint where the end of one board will meet the face of the next? If so that's not that weak if done right, it should be more than strong enough for a small box.

But if you'd prefer some reinforcement you can add veneer keys. Although these are customary on mitre joints there's no reason you can't use them on this joint too.

Another option, also quite decorative, is to glue in small through-dowels that go through the face of one board and into the end grain of the adjoining piece. Careful drilling is the order of the day here obviously with 1/4" material!

Third option, halving joints like these. As you can see this was reinforced with dowels as well, which is mostly for decorative effect on a box of this size as the added strength is unlikely to be needed.

LFS19":3p9daza6 said:
Even cutting it is a job.
I think you need to get a nice fine-toothed hand saw :) A good saw will leave a glue-ready end on a board.

Then I'd use a knifed line to help cut dead straight and square, or you could cut a hair longer than needed and then shoot the end perfect using a bench hook or a shooting board.
 
Wuffles":wat7j5g7 said:
Whenever I fall out of love with my band saw through drift, iffy cuts, whatever, I hark back to this excellent video I once watched. I can recommend you grab a cup of tea and watch it. 35mins long, informative and makes the point well.

https://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU

Oh and Diresta did a good bandsaw tips video in his "tips" series - and if you're a newbie, get a pot of tea and watch the rest of the series sometime.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gA4lpsEWM5k


Thanks for the links, they look very in depth and should be helpful.
I e come across diresta before, I think.
 
sunnybob":2xfq1igu said:
I've had a steep learning curve on bandsaws this past year. Threw the first one away ( a FOX). Even tuffsaw blades couldnt make that rubbish work.
My new Axminster bandsaw again came with a rubbish blade, but I fitted an axcaliber and its unbelievable the difference.
A bandsaw that cuts well is a very useful tool.

I echo that sentiment :)
I've not had much luck with mine since I got it. Hopefully I can learn to use it.
 
ED65":3ff3w87h said:
LFS19":3ff3w87h said:
The only way I seem to be able to do it is a butt joint, which I know is inherently weak
Can I just confirm, are you talking about a butt joint where the end of one board will meet the face of the next? If so that's not that weak if done right, it should be more than strong enough for a small box.

But if you'd prefer some reinforcement you can add veneer keys. Although these are customary on mitre joints there's no reason you can't use them on this joint too.

Another option, also quite decorative, is to glue in small through-dowels that go through the face of one board and into the end grain of the adjoining piece. Careful drilling is the order of the day here obviously with 1/4" material!

Third option, halving joints like these. As you can see this was reinforced with dowels as well, which is mostly for decorative effect on a box of this size as the added strength is unlikely to be needed.

LFS19":3ff3w87h said:
Even cutting it is a job.
I think you need to get a nice fine-toothed hand saw :) A good saw will leave a glue-ready end on a board.

Then I'd use a knifed line to help cut dead straight and square, or you could cut a hair longer than needed and then shoot the end perfect using a bench hook or a shooting board.


Yes, it's true I do not actually have a hand saw other than a cheap hack saw. I could do with a proper one.

Those options look good. I particularly like the keyed one you mentioned, though if a butt joint would be fine for this application, I may just do that.

Thanks.
 
LFS19":2dt51oun said:
sunnybob":2dt51oun said:
I've had a steep learning curve on bandsaws this past year. Threw the first one away ( a FOX). Even tuffsaw blades couldnt make that rubbish work.
My new Axminster bandsaw again came with a rubbish blade, but I fitted an axcaliber and its unbelievable the difference.
A bandsaw that cuts well is a very useful tool.

I echo that sentiment :)
I've not had much luck with mine since I got it. Hopefully I can learn to use it.

Buy a good blade. If your blade is old, or came with the machine. BIN IT!!!
You cant make bandsaws work with out a good blade.
Tuff saw, or axcaliber are good. Stay away from the original suppliers stuff. I threw 4 original suppliers blades away with that Fox, smartest move I've made this year.
 

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