Best/easiest way to repair kitchen worktop?

[Kalimna]

Greetings folks,
We have a standard chipboard-faced-with-granite-a-like-plastic worktop (around 7-8 years old in a new house) in the kitchen, and for about 2m underneath the sink, the chipboard has blown a little.
Rather than replace the worktop, I would like to repair (cosmetically at any rate) the area that has swollen. What would you recommend as a straightforward way to do this? I was thinking of block-planing away the grot then 'fixing' with epoxy or cyano and touch up with a suitable colour.
Any thoughts?

Cheers,
Adam

 

[MMUK]

I wouldn't bother trying a repair. once it's got wet and blown it loses structural integrity. For the sake of an £80 length of worktop it's not worth the time or effort when you'll end up doing it again in no time at all.

 

[Kalimna]

Point taken. Unfortunately, however, it wouldn't just be a single length, as it is part of a wide breakfast-bar type thing.
Never having done anything like this, is it a relatively straightforward matter to replace worktops?

Cheers,
Adam

 

[blackrodd]

You may be surprised and find the worktop is still available.
Take note of the texture as well as the colour and scour you're local DIY, and builders merchants, They do have samples to check and you may well be lucky.
MM has a valid point I think one day it will fail, more than likely, you may even be able to get a 2 mtr length should that work better than a longer one.
When you have it re fitted put (2 or3) coats of yacht varnish or similar around the cut out to help stop this re occuring.
HTH, Regards Rodders

PS perhaps you could find a really good kitchen and worktop fitter and he could "let a piece in" for you R Rodders

 

[DrPhill]

Point taken. Unfortunately, however, it wouldn't just be a single length, as it is part of a wide breakfast-bar type thing.
Never having done anything like this, is it a relatively straightforward matter to replace worktops?

Cheers,
Adam

I have done a few, and though I would suggest that you wait for an expert to come along with real advice, here are some things I learnt:

• 
  * Vertical cuts. I am pants at this especially on something this thick. I routed out the shape from the reverse side and used a flush cutter to do the visible cut.
  * Joins take way more skill than I have. The metal joining pieces look ugly.
  * Solid beech block was easier - i could sand the levels across the join to hide the line.
  * The donkey dung under the plastic is an easy material to work, but blunts the router bit quickly.
  * Buy some yacht varnish and a throw-away brush, and coat every exposed bit of donkey-dung with varnish. Lots. As much as you can get the stuff to absorb. Especially around wet things like sinks.

HTH