Best (budget) way to join railway sleepers.

[Tommcdonald81]

Hi, similar topic to my last post, I need to join large oak railway sleepers together for a table top, was just wondering what was the best way people have found to do this? Many large Biscuit joints?

 

[AJB Temple]

You do realise how heavy they are? if they are genuine railway sleepers it is a two person lift for a single sleeper.

Unless you are radically re-dimensioning them, the table will be very heavy. You can forget biscuit joints on whole sleepers. I would drill holes and fix them together with steel rods with washers and tightening bolts at each end (rather like a butchers block construction) then cap the bolt recesses off if desired.

 

[AJB Temple]

Another approach is to consider the construction of old refectory tables. I have one from the 16th century and it is about 10 feet long and just over 3 feet across, made of three planks about 4" thick. They are held together with three big braces underneath, and cleated nails. (Think braced door back). The legs butt against the two end braces. This is pretty rigid and has survived quite a while. It requires four people to lift it whole, or two people can just about manage the top if they are strong.

 

[Tommcdonald81]

Thank you for the advice folks. I should have explained I am having them cut to size, it's a vanity table. The table top will consist of only 2 125x250x1000mm sleepers. Legs will be made from 4 100x200x600mm sleepers. 2 legs joined together each side. I've no doubt this will be very heavy but not as heavy as a full size table.

I'm not able to post a picture as I'm new here but a gent posted it for me in my previous post

furniture-from-railway-sleepers-t107200.html

 

[NazNomad]

Nice big contrasting butterflies.

 

[thetyreman]

I'd say use butterfly joints they not only look good but they serve a purpose.

 

[Tommcdonald81]

Great butterfly joints it is. Should I do these top and bottom do you reckon? Due to the width of the wood?

Not sure if the client will want visible butterfly joints on the top surface so would one side be sufficient?

 

[Bod]

Stainless steel threaded rod at least M12 or M16.
Nothing else will be strong enough, and adjustable when the wood really dries out.

Bod

 

[Tommcdonald81]

Could you describe how I'd do that Please? So hollow out a couple of sections underneath both sides, drill a hole large enough from the inside sides and use these bolts?

 

[nev]

...
I'm not able to post a picture as I'm new....

There is no restriction to new members for posting pictures, see the picture posting guide at the top of each forum page.

picture-posting-guide-t63716.html

 

[custard]

Not sure if the client will want visible butterfly joints on the top surface

:shock:

I charge £70 each for adding butterfly cleats to waney edged table tops. I know, far too cheap.

I usually make them from African Blackwood, they penetrate one third the thickness of the top, and are fitted from both sides for stability. Personally I prefer it when no two cleats are the same, and no two are parallel with each other. I cut mock ups from thick black paper and it's a good way of engaging the client in a project, because they can fiddle around placing them on the slab top.

There was an article by Chris Schwarz in one of the American woodworking magazines, he fitted some butterfly cleats but they had gaps around the edges, his verdict was not to worry, a bit of black wax will sort that out. If mine had even the most minute gap then I'd shoot myself.

 

[NazNomad]

I charge £70 each for adding butterfly cleats to waney edged table tops. I know, far too cheap.

... and each piece is unique. If I commissioned a table I would insist on those being on show.

 

[Chip shop]

this by mtr1 on woodwork UK

 

[Nelsun]

On the subject of splines I'd definitely want to see some if they were needed as IMHO they add a real point of interest to what you'd normally call a defect in the wood. Here's a video that I found really helpful to get me started doing them:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLQkk-x5CeI

I started off using a router to hog out the insides but it's very easy to c*ck that up and nibble out a bit you didn't want to (especially on smaller ones) so moved to just using chisels. It probably takes the same amount of time and is far safer and more satisfying in my book. In the video above he ever so slightly undercuts the mortice which makes sense as you don't want it to get stuck half way in. And easing the hidden edges of the spline is good too.

I've yet to try another method where you undercut the spline itself rather than the mortice with the idea being it gives a very tight fit on top. I only saw it the other day via The Samurai Carpenter here https://youtu.be/bXTu4W8QxVY?t=175

I think the most important part is to get the seam between spline and mortice spot on (start slow and gentle to build up a wall inside the perimeter) and take care not to ding it as you deepen the mortice.

 

[TFrench]

I think I would go with the threaded rod for strength, then add a couple of butterflies in the top for decoration and to make it look more traditional. If you bore a hole from the back through the first sleeper and halfway through the second, you could then router a slot for a nut and washer to sit in, then tighten it from the back. Almost like a worktop dog-bone joint.

 

[Tommcdonald81]

Got you, thank you.

And great videos on you tube from the samurai carpenter.

Thanks for all the advice folks.