Best and cheapest softwood and hardwood ?
- Thread starter phil2010
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Shane
Established Member
First off best comes down to what you want to use it for and personal taste
I can't comment too much on softwoods, as I prefer not to use it
depending where you go, cheapest hardwood is usually idigbo but I hate the stuff, has tendencies to get cross grain shakes and it's awful to work
second cheapest is usually sapele, has a straight grain that is easy to work, but I find the grain a little bland, so I normally use it for external joinery with a paint finish. No reason why you cant make a nice piece with it with the right finish though
Iroko could be another option, has a fairly interesting grain, is ok to work and isn't as expensive as oak. I tend to be wary of using it though as although many Iroko suppliers state that their wood comes from sustainable sources, this is not necessarily the case.
Best (IMO) is euro oak, abw and maple, they tend to be a bit dearer but are long time favourites of mine
I can't comment too much on softwoods, as I prefer not to use it
depending where you go, cheapest hardwood is usually idigbo but I hate the stuff, has tendencies to get cross grain shakes and it's awful to work
second cheapest is usually sapele, has a straight grain that is easy to work, but I find the grain a little bland, so I normally use it for external joinery with a paint finish. No reason why you cant make a nice piece with it with the right finish though
Iroko could be another option, has a fairly interesting grain, is ok to work and isn't as expensive as oak. I tend to be wary of using it though as although many Iroko suppliers state that their wood comes from sustainable sources, this is not necessarily the case.
Best (IMO) is euro oak, abw and maple, they tend to be a bit dearer but are long time favourites of mine
I agree with Shane. There is no such thing as a "best" hardwood; it is a matter both of taste and suitability for purpose. For example oak is hard and strong but heavy while ash is paler, lighter in weight and also strong.
So far as the likes of idigbo, sapele and iroko are concerned, also remember that these are tropical hardwoods which may not have been produced sustainably and, even if they have, will have a much larger carbon footprint. If that doesn't matter to you remember that while all wood dust is harmful, the dust of many of the tropical woods (Iroko is a case in point) is much more so and can cause severe reactions.
Jim
So far as the likes of idigbo, sapele and iroko are concerned, also remember that these are tropical hardwoods which may not have been produced sustainably and, even if they have, will have a much larger carbon footprint. If that doesn't matter to you remember that while all wood dust is harmful, the dust of many of the tropical woods (Iroko is a case in point) is much more so and can cause severe reactions.
Jim
Richard Findley
Established Member
Hi Phil,
If you're buying Pine you want good joinery quality Redwood, this will be available in set dimensions either planed (PAR) or rough sawn. You really want a timber merchant rather than B&Poo or builders merchant though.
You cheapest hardwood IME is American Ash which will come in boards of whatever thickness you need, always sawn. IIRC the last board of 2" I bought was around £600 a cubic metre (that's not as much as it initially sounds - honest!!)
Ash is a nice timber to use, quite pale with nice grain. Usually works fairly easily with sharp tools.
HTH
Richard
If you're buying Pine you want good joinery quality Redwood, this will be available in set dimensions either planed (PAR) or rough sawn. You really want a timber merchant rather than B&Poo or builders merchant though.
You cheapest hardwood IME is American Ash which will come in boards of whatever thickness you need, always sawn. IIRC the last board of 2" I bought was around £600 a cubic metre (that's not as much as it initially sounds - honest!!)
Ash is a nice timber to use, quite pale with nice grain. Usually works fairly easily with sharp tools.
HTH
Richard
mtt.tr
Established Member
Oak for me to
jimi43
Established Member
Iroko makes me look like Mr Blobby! I have quite a reaction to it.
Apparently, Cocobolo is the same but I used it for the second time tonight...used a barrier cream and created some fine dust on the lathe and nothing happened....so I guess it is a sensitizer for some and not others.
English oak is my out and out favourite...and I think it is worth the money.
I only use small quantities for what I make so I guess it does depend on what you are making...
I like working with veneers too...stable substrate...amazing veneers...a good formula.
Jim
Apparently, Cocobolo is the same but I used it for the second time tonight...used a barrier cream and created some fine dust on the lathe and nothing happened....so I guess it is a sensitizer for some and not others.
English oak is my out and out favourite...and I think it is worth the money.
I only use small quantities for what I make so I guess it does depend on what you are making...
I like working with veneers too...stable substrate...amazing veneers...a good formula.
Jim
Probably not the cheapest, but IMHO one of the best hardwoods for fine furniture is an oak cousin: sweet chestnut.
It's frequently ignored and downplayed here but is a very durable wood and extremely stable once seasoned. I've used it for a cabinet whose drawers had a very tight fit. I finished it in the summer and was afraid that those drawers would bind during the winter. Nope, Its movement is close to none. Also I've experienced no significant bends or twists even after resawing.
I cannot say the same regarding oak or ash, let alone beech.
The only drawback is that being softer than oak it dents more easily.
It's frequently ignored and downplayed here but is a very durable wood and extremely stable once seasoned. I've used it for a cabinet whose drawers had a very tight fit. I finished it in the summer and was afraid that those drawers would bind during the winter. Nope, Its movement is close to none. Also I've experienced no significant bends or twists even after resawing.
I cannot say the same regarding oak or ash, let alone beech.
The only drawback is that being softer than oak it dents more easily.
