benefits of BLO

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winemaker":stqv3sfr said:
What about raw linseed oil does any one use it :?: I have read it's good to use.

The trouble with raw LO is that it takes a lot longer to dry and can leave a sticky residue on the surface.
I'm not sure that raw LO is a non-drying oil but BLO is a drying-oil and also often has extra driers added to speed things up even more.

HTH
Jon
 
chipmunk":2a8vzuyg said:
The cynic in me points to the fact that he works for a finish manufacturer - Mylands - Why get penmakers to buy one product when you can get them to buy two, or three or four? :)

You might very well think that. I couldn't possibly comment. I have e-mailed him and will let you know if and when he replies.

John. B":2a8vzuyg said:
having perused Dalboy's pic's, I am of the opinion, not much work goes on in that terribly neat and tidy workshop!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :wink: :wink:
John. b

Hmmm. I thought I was obsessively tidy, but looking at the pics of Derek's workshop I can see I am a mere amateur.
 
Walter Hall":1uagj0ax said:
chipmunk":1uagj0ax said:
The cynic in me points to the fact that he works for a finish manufacturer - Mylands - Why get penmakers to buy one product when you can get them to buy two, or three or four? :)

You might very well think that. I couldn't possibly comment. I have e-mailed him and will let you know if and when he replies.

I should point out that the comment was meant in jest.

The problem I'd have thought in putting a shellac finish over a melamine finish is that the shellac will wear off as it's not as durable but I know that the pre-catalysed lacquer like melamine will take a few days to fully harden.
Is this an instant way to get a smooth thick glossy shine before the lacquer has fully hardened? I can see that for demos that'd be an attractive thing.

If the melamine could be left a few days to fully harden then it could be quite vigorously buffed to a great shine which would make the friction polish completely redundant IMHO.

Incidentally I seem to recall from a Chestnut demo by Terry Smart that Acrylic lacquer is actually harder than melamine once it's dry but again can take a while to fully cure.

Jon
 
chipmunk":1vb9iptn said:
I should point out that the comment was meant in jest.

My reply was intended in similar vein (being a quote from Francis Urquhart the fictional Conservative politician from the TV series House of Cards).

chipmunk":1vb9iptn said:
The problem I'd have thought in putting a shellac finish over a melamine finish is that the shellac will wear off as it's not as durable but I know that the pre-catalysed lacquer like melamine will take a few days to fully harden.
Is this an instant way to get a smooth thick glossy shine before the lacquer has fully hardened? I can see that for demos that'd be an attractive thing.

If the melamine could be left a few days to fully harden then it could be quite vigorously buffed to a great shine which would make the friction polish completely redundant IMHO.

Incidentally I seem to recall from a Chestnut demo by Terry Smart that Acrylic lacquer is actually harder than melamine once it's dry but again can take a while to fully cure.

Jon

Your thinking on the use of shellac over the top of melamine is pretty much the same as mine.

Acrylic lacquer is hard (and shiny) enough for car bodywork so there really would be no point in applying anything over that other than a protective wax (as you would with car bodywork)

Maybe I should e-mail Terry Smart for an opinion too.
 
My thanks to Walter for emailing me - I've replied here so you can get it straight from the horse's mouth as it were.

It's quite acceptable to apply a shellac based product over a cellulose based product. This is commonly done when using Cellulose Sanding Sealer as a base for Friction Polish. Melamine Lacquer is simply a cellulose based, pre-catalysed lacquer.
There are no compatibility problems with this, but you really shouldn't use them the other way round.
It's a technique I've used many times (and shown to others...), especially in conjunction with our Burnishing Cream to get a very high gloss finish with lots of depth whilst still managing to avoid that 'plastic' look. The lacquer provides a tougher base than just sealer and as such will give a higher, longer lasting shine as the polish is unable to sink into the wood. (The sealer prevents most of this, lacquer stops it)

As to why do it?

I wouldn't on a pen or a bowl or anything that it going to be used as anything other than on ornament or would be only subject to very infrequent handling etc. It looks great but doesn't stand up to much handling. A Friction Polish finish is designed to be mainly decorative and works very well at that; it has a limited degree of resistance to handling and even water - but this is very limited. For harder wearing stick to lacquers or oils or in this case CA.

With regard to the 'selling more products' comment, which I accept was tongue-in-cheek, I understand the point and we always try to avoid this. Of course we demonstrate our products to the best of their ability and they are designed to work together, but when demonstrating I often say that you can omit certain stages if you want, but of course the final effect won't be quite as good. Still good, just not as good.

I hope that helps, I'll try to keep an eye on this thread and answer any other questions.
 
Thanks for your comprehensive reply Terry.

In the context of the opening poster's original question which is slightly different because it involves CA rather than lacquer:

spinks":3ct1bnqp said:
I am going to get myself a bottle of HUT crystal coat (I have heard its good stuff!!) but would that get me a good gloss finish over BLO/CA??

The answer it seems is yes applying friction polish over CA might work but it would not add anything to the original CA finish or provide a particularly durable finish.
 
Walter Hall":20ifkao1 said:
applying friction polish over CA might work but it would not add anything to the original CA finish or provide a particularly durable finish.

I'd go along with that. I have heard people recently telling me that they use our Burnishing Cream (other brands are available lol!) over CA to bring up the gloss; as this doesn't add a coating it will give a shine without affecting the durability. I haven't tried this myself yet, but a number of turners have told me they get good results with this.
 
Yep, I use your burnishing cream ( and other brands) on CA after first removing any ridges or other irregularities with 1000 or 1200 grit abrasive. Works well for me.

I use the same process with acrylic pen blanks.
 
Walter Hall":3max3wrq said:
I use the same process with acrylic pen blanks.

Yes, it always seems strange to me that people want to put a finish on acrylic pens; it's already tougher than any polish is going to be!
 
On the other hand, if you make a complete pineapple of turning an acrylic blank CA is very good at disguising the damage. DAMHIKT
 
John. B":2nf8itcg said:
having perused Dalboy's pic's, I am of the opinion, not much work goes on in that terribly neat and tidy workshop!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :wink: :wink:
John. b

My wife just read this and laughed :lol: :lol: :lol: . With a workshop this small you have to keep it tidy, even after a good days turning I have a good clean up at the end of the day otherwise I will never find anything mind you that happens even if it is tidy :oops: :oops: :lol: :lol: .

Walter Hall":2nf8itcg said:
Yep, I use your burnishing cream ( and other brands) on CA after first removing any ridges or other irregularities with 1000 or 1200 grit abrasive. Works well for me.

I use the same process with acrylic pen blanks.

Same here Walter and no I have not read your book :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Dalboy":3vmndtm4 said:
I have not read your book :lol: :lol: :lol:
th_OMG.gif
 
I use BLO on a nice figured piece of wood such as Olive, but only one coat then leave it a few days (or even longer) to fully dry .. It really does help bring out the grain ... :)

Here are a set of pens using the above method ...

Olive_wood_fountain_and_rollerball_Pen_set.jpg
 
Very nice, Teepeg. Is that "normal" olive? Or one of the more unusual west African or Jerusalem varieties?

Gorgeous grain, just wondering if part of what makes it special is the oil, or the wood. Very nice pens.

Nic.
 
Just a quick update on the friction polish over the top of melamine lacquer and/or CA question.

Mark Raby very kindly responded to my e-mail with a phone call. He confirms that, as Jon (chipmunk) thought, applying friction polish over melamine lacquer as in his video is a quick way of achieving a high gloss without waiting for the melamine to fully harden. This is great for those who want to get the job done quickly (as in demo's for example) but will not produce as durable a finish as melamine alone. His recommendation for a durable finish is to allow the melamine to harden, preferably overnight and then burnish with burnishing cream.

He also agrees with me that applying friction polish over CA would be pointless and the best way of finishing CA is to burnish it with burnishing cream after removing any irregularities with fine abrasive.

Edit: Just spotted your pens Teepeg. Very nice.
 
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