Bench Grinder for under £100

[heimlaga]

For 100 pounds or the equivalent ine euros one could get a top quality bench grinder secondhand and also get new bearings for it. Shifting bearings is not very difficult. I recently paid 50 euros for a small three phase grinder of high quality. It just needed a new cable and a new plug and one new wheel. That makes a total cost not exceeding 120 euros.

The ideal grinder for you would in my oppinion be a waterstone grinder/ bench grinder combination. Something like the ones manufactured by Geoprodukter in Kiruna under the brand name Kirunaslipen:
http://www.geoprodukter.se/Engelsk/Kiruna-Slipen.htm
Grinders of this type have a slow running waterstone and a fast running bench grinder stone. Then you get the best of two worlds merged into one machine.
They turn up secondhand now and then and maybe some have ended up in the Netherlands so you might find one. There were several other barnds of grinders of this type made back in the 60-ies and 70-ies.
I think I paid something like 30 euros secondhand for a Kiruna grinder of the smallest model. I had to repair the fan on the motor but othwerwise it was all right.
I also have a bigger floor standing model which was made by Alimak Verken in Skellefteå. It's waterstone is 60 cm in diametre. I paid 600 kronor (about 70 euros) for it secondhand but it needed a total rebuild which costed about 100 euros plus some work. I had to weld up a totally new frame for it and shift all bearings and gaskets and repair a small crack in the gear wheel and repair a leak in the water trough.

I prefere to use a slow running waterstone grinder for sharpening chisels and gouges. Some prefere other sharpening methods. There are any number of different methods but for a 100 pound budget you could probably find any grinder you want if you are prepared to buy secondhand and fix it up a bit.

Good Luck!

 

[J_SAMa]

http://youtube.com/watch?v=d6oOOmswYZU
27:35 how Mr. Dovetails is purposefully NOT letting the blade touch the surface of the tool "rest"... Is that the "correct" technique?
In all seriousness, If I followed that technique, why would I even use a tool rest over a steel bar?

And then it's the term "friable" wheels which a lot of 'Muricans mention, is that synonymous with with the "white" wheels we've been talking about or does it refer only to a special breed of these white wheels

 

[Racers]

Hi heimlaga

I have an old Kiruna-Slipen 275 professional, I had to do a bit of rebuild on mine, the plastic coating on the trough had holed and was coming off, so I peeled it off and painted it and fitted a hose connector and short length of hose so I can fill and empty it, the hose is held up in a wire clip when its full.

I had the original stone split due to rust build up on the shaft (its why I fitted the hose) but Axminister where selling a stone that was nearly the right size, I had to shim the shaft with some tubing but it works fine.

Pete

 

[J_SAMa]

Anyone? Please, I really need some advice on that technique...

 

[AndyT]

Anyone? Please, I really need some advice on that technique...

I've had a quick look at the video you linked to and it seems perfectly clear. He has previously demonstrated grinding a chisel on his slow speed grinder, using a jig. But, he says, if you don't have a jig, you can manage without one. He shows how - hold the blade so one finger goes across it and use that finger to rest against something. (It could be a bar or a basic cheap toolrest; he uses just the front edge of his jig, as that is what he has there. It might have been a better demonstration if he had removed the jig and fitted something simpler.)

So, as others have often said, you can buy and use a jig or you can train yourself to hold the blade steady so you get equally good results.

 

[J_SAMa]

Anyone? Please, I really need some advice on that technique...

I've had a quick look at the video you linked to and it seems perfectly clear. He has previously demonstrated grinding a chisel on his slow speed grinder, using a jig. But, he says, if you don't have a jig, you can manage without one. He shows how - hold the blade so one finger goes across it and use that finger to rest against something. (It could be a bar or a basic cheap toolrest; he uses just the front edge of his jig, as that is what he has there. It might have been a better demonstration if he had removed the jig and fitted something simpler.)

So, as others have often said, you can buy and use a jig or you can train yourself to hold the blade steady so you get equally good results.

Actually, I'm concerned about the likelihood of danger if untrained hands attempted that technique. Without the tool resting flat on the tool rest, is it possible for the edge to dig in? Don't want to lose a finger trying that

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Personally I wouldn't think of putting an unsupported tool onto a grinding wheel, as you have correctly identified, it is a recipe for disaster in inexperienced hands.

Why are you avoiding buying / making a suitable tool rest?

Regards Mick

 

[J_SAMa]

Hi

Personally I wouldn't think of putting an unsupported tool onto a grinding wheel, as you have correctly identified, it is a recipe for disaster in inexperienced hands.

Why are you avoiding buying / making a suitable tool rest?

Regards Mick

Sorry if I gave that impression but I'm not... I'm just trying to confirm what the correct technique is insofar as whether the tool should be fully rested on the jig or lifted off is concerned.
Okay actually I AM avoiding buying a tool rest. I've already decided to make one as it looks quite simple.

 

[Spindle]

Okay actually I AM avoiding buying a tool rest. I've already decided to make one as it looks quite simple.

Good man =D> =D>

Don't forget to show us the results

Regards Mick

 

[Vann]

...Mr. Dovetails is purposefully NOT letting the blade touch the surface of the tool "rest"... Is that the "correct" technique?

That's how I was taught - though there is no such thing as the correct technique. But after 30+ years out of the trade, when I got back into woodworking I bought the Veritas set-up in order to eliminate the chance that my technique was wrong - and because I like the greater accuracy.

...why would I even use a tool rest over a steel bar?

You don't need one - it's quicker without setting up the blade in a holder. But if you're unsure (and your livelihood doesn't depend upon speed of your woodwork) then a decent rest and/or holder can give a more repeatable result.

HTH.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Oh no! It's the "J" word coming on again...

 

[Vann]

Oh no! It's the "J" word coming on again...

I'm sorry. I nearly didn't post 'cause I knew I was sailing close...

But I never actually used the "J" word - honest guv.

Cheers, Vann

 

[J_SAMa]

:shock: :shock:

http://youtu.be/XN5QSTaVzRQ 5:20

Didn't think Sellers would be the one to do this...

 

[Vann]

Didn't think Sellers would be the one to do this...

Interesting...

Some observations:
-Very much a case of do as I say, not as I do when it comes to the safety goggles etc. He, IMHO, had the cooling water too far away and seemed to be leaning over the grinder to reach it (though that may just have been the camera angle).
-Not a very round curve on the iron.
-Rounded bevel (hah, I got to use the 'B' word (hammer) ).
-It seems a shame to widen the mouth on a perfectly good plane (I have picked up so many with huge mouths - it not as though there's a shortage !)

But overall, it was interesting to watch (now that I've finally got around to turning a woodie into a scrub plane #-o )

Cheers, Vann.

 

[J_SAMa]

Didn't think Sellers would be the one to do this...

Interesting...

Some observations:
-Very much a case of do as I say, not as I do when it comes to the safety goggles etc. He, IMHO, had the cooling water too far away and seemed to be leaning over the grinder to reach it (though that may just have been the camera angle).
-Not a very round curve on the iron.
-Rounded bevel (hah, I got to use the 'B' word (hammer) ).
-It seems a shame to widen the mouth on a perfectly good plane (I have picked up so many with huge mouths - it not as though there's a shortage !)

But overall, it was interesting to watch (now that I've finally got around to turning a woodie into a scrub plane #-o )

Cheers, Vann.

Yebbut that technique looks more than just "interesting" it looks like it's gonna get some newbies like me killed...

 

[Vann]

Yebbut that technique looks more than just "interesting" it looks like it's gonna get some newbies like me killed...

Nah, you'll just loose a finger or two. Nothing to worry about - there'll still be 8 left.

Personally I don't like using a powered grinder unless my workpiece is supported on the tool rest. If he's skilled enough not to need to do that then fair enough - but I'm not sure he should be encouraging all and sundry to do so.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[jimi43]

Yebbut that technique looks more than just "interesting" it looks like it's gonna get some newbies like me killed...

Nah, you'll just loose a finger or two. Nothing to worry about - there'll still be 8 left.

Personally I don't like using a powered grinder unless my workpiece is supported on the tool rest. If he's skilled enough not to need to do that then fair enough - but I'm not sure he should be encouraging all and sundry to do so.

Cheers, Vann.

In addition...even though that is a fairly cheap grinder...it has obviously been fettled as it sounds sweet and is balanced.

The finger acts as the stabilizing "rest" during this operation but I cannot see why he couldn't just adjust the tool rest to the correct angle and then grind the same bevel with a sweep resting on the rest itself.

The problem with the basic type of tool rest on these things is that when it's tilted the whole thing has to be moved forward to get it within safe distance again...and this is fiddly.

The Axminster rest eliminates this by using two easy-adjust knobs which makes you want to get it right as it's so easy to do.

I didn't know bluing on the corners would be corrected (re-hardened) by dunking in water though...new one on me.

Jimi

 

[Vann]

I didn't know bluing on the corners would be corrected (re-hardened) by dunking in water though...new one on me.

If he'd said "It's only blued on the corner so it won't matter" I'd have been more inclined to believe him.

I'm not trying to trash his video (I've enjoyed those few I've watched) - just trying to point out that everything he says isn't gospel.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[jimi43]

I didn't know bluing on the corners would be corrected (re-hardened) by dunking in water though...new one on me.

If he'd said "It's only blued on the corner so it won't matter" I'd have been more inclined to believe him.

I'm not trying to trash his video (I've enjoyed those few I've watched) - just trying to point out that everything he says isn't gospel.

Cheers, Vann.

I know he said it wouldn't matter on a corner and of course it wouldn't matter one iota but he also said it would reharden....never heard of that bit before.

Jimi

 

[heimlaga]

he also said it would reharden....never heard of that bit before.

Fortunately....... because it isn't true. To harden carbon steel you need to heat it to a dull dark red all over and then quench it in water or brine or oil. The coise of quenching medium depends on the type of steel used. Blue heat is simply not hot enough for the process to work. After quenching the temper is drawn, that is the steel in heated to a temperature between light yellow and purple depending on the type of steel and the intended use of the tool.
A woodworking chisel is normally tempered to a yellow or copper colour. This means that if it is overheated to a blue or brown colour when grinding it is softened a good deal though there is some of the hardening left in it. Blue or brown is roundabout the correct temper for leaf springs and hammer heads. You don't want your chisel to be as soft as a leaf spring do you! Such an edge will be too soft.

This is the reason why I use a water cooled slow speed grinder for most of my tools. I don't want to overheat them ruin the hardening.