Beginner needs help shed build

[ICharger]

Hello. I am after some guidance in planning my shed build.
I'm unsure whether to dig down and make the shed Base level or keep it as in the photo, raised up.
If it is raised up I loose a lot of head height as im 6"4 and if I dig down I'm afraid it will cause me more work.
Has anyone been in my situation before?
I'd gladly appreciate any help.

 

[RobinBHM]

Unfortunately your images dont show.

If you're building the shed, make it with a flat roof for max head room ( 1 in 40 fall not totally flat).

Digging out the soil is possible, Ive just got rid of top soil from doing that, half a muckaway lorry. Its good exercise!

 

[biskit]

Like Robin said get digging, good to get more height inside. I've had to hand dig 8' deep foundations on a few builds I've done in the past, it's not as bad as you think :? but better when you've finished.

 

[Bm101]

The best thing about digging foundations by hand is that the deeper you go and the more tired you get the higher you have to throw the soil out.
No help here at all. Just remembering.

 

[ICharger]

I have a question about the roof for a pent shed. When I lay my joists across the roof, do I need to block them as shown in this http://m.wikihow.com/Build-a-Shed
or do leave them open for ventilation.
I hope that made some sense.

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[ICharger]

Please help! I new to this.

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[Stanleymonkey]

Planks on the ground are there to show the slope of the land?

I don't think it would be that bad to dig back from the lower level and cut into the slope and create a level base. Do you have access to the road to get rid of the soil in bulk or will it have to go through the house? Just thinking of wheelbarrows versus rubble bags / buckets.

Are the planks on the fence there as guides for the shed height or something similar?

Have you visited any garden centres / shed stores and walked around inside a shed? I guess they will all be too small for you, but you could find one that looks promising - copy the design and add 4, 5 or 6 inches to the walls to buy you the extra height you need. Take lots of photos and get brochures for that design and you have somewhere to start to design from.

Just a thought

 

[Stanleymonkey]

Another point is drainage.

How is your garden during the winter or in summer when there's a big thunderstorm and downpour? If it all runs to the bottom of the garden and leaves a big puddle for a week or two then you might have some extra things to think about.

Also, if you dig in to the ground and leave a two or three foot 'wall' of soil at one end you'll need to think about how to retain that earth and keep it back from the wooden base and shed wall or it will continually allow water to pass into your shed timber and eventually damage them.

 

[ICharger]

Thank you Stanley for the great tips.
Yes the planks on the ground are to show the slope as are the planks on the fence are to show my maximum height I can go.
I have decided to dig down which wasn't to hard over a day and took the soil and rubble to my local landfill.
I have penciled a plan on paper and looking forward to starting the project soon.
As you pointed out, I will still have to work out how to retain the earth as the shed will be lower than the pathway. In fact the doubledoor will be below the pathway so I guess more digging.

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[Stanleymonkey]

You look well underway - hope you're putting the kids to work too!


I built a little playhouse for my kids recently. Built the frames for the walls using pocket hole screws and a mini kreg jig (about £15)

I know it's a totally different scale but I built the walls bit by bit in 1 or 2 metre panels. The pocket holes let you really screw the frames together solidly. I even started the walls indoors on the flat floor in the back room (It was raining and I was off work with my daughter - chickenpox). Built them exactly to the shape and size that we wanted and then covered them in featheredge when they were all joined together.

Not quite sure how you are planning to build and finish yours. I'd recommend pocket hole screws /kreg jigs though. They're best for when you @#@!~@ it up and have to go back and add extra pieces and supports..

Good luck

 

[ICharger]

Still digging. Further than I expected. Good news is the gas board are digging outside my house and they are allowing me to put my rubble in there heep.

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[Fitzroy]

Still digging. Further than I expected. Good news is the gas board are digging outside my house and they are allowing me to put my rubble in there heep.

You luck blighter! Keep on with the digging, my digging is taking way longer than expected, and I have 20+bags of spoil that I have to take to the damn dump :x

F.

 

[deema]

Have a look on the planning portal, there is a nice section on the planning regulations covering sheds. I can't remember the details, however, you should have no problem with head height, and being able to build something that meets your needs without digging down too far. The main thing I recall is the size versus distance from a boundary if it's made of a combustible material.

The other thing I've found is how amazingly tolerant and defensive neighbours become of your hobby if you offer to fix something or make something that they need.

I would add as much insulation as you can, not to keep it warm (that's just a byproduct) but to reduce the noise pollution. Walls roof, window and door should all be insulated. Windows are easily and very very cheaply baught off an auction double glazed units, with a cill brown for say £10. A door again I would buy from an auction site insulated uPVC with a frame, multipoint locking for added security say £20.

In the last six months I've baught a few Windows and doors from auction sites, some have been brand new. None of which have cost be more that £30. If your building a shed, look for the odd sizes that people can't sell....because they are an odd size. Just make the opening to match.

 

[memzey]

I agree with all of the above but £20 for a multi-point locking double glazed door is a bit on the cheap side (around here at least). I've just bought a set for my workshop with a 2m opening (French doors so double openers) and paid £200. Well worth it as new it would have set me back well over £1000.

 

[deema]

It may be the area I live in, but just checked an auction site, and a rosewood door with small double glazed obscure glass, multi point locking including frame is £50 and a brand new one ex-display is £80. White ones seem to be circa £20~£50.

Anyway, far cheaper than buying the wood and hardware to make one!

 

[memzey]

Ah. The one I picked up is double glazed white upvc and really heavy. Like I say the cheapest equivalent new one I found was around £1,000. I'm having my workshop built now so have ultimate flexibility on size etc as the builders will just make the hole to fit the doors. I wanted large French doors to make ingress of machines and egress of assembled pieces as easy as possible!